Timing Belt/Water Pump Mentoring Needed In The Milwaukee Area
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Timing Belt/Water Pump Mentoring Needed In The Milwaukee Area
I am planning on changing the timing belt, water pump, and such on my beloved 86.5 in the next month or so, and was wondering if there is anyone in the Milwaukee area that I could loan the crankshaft lock tool and a Kempf gauge from? I would leave a substantial deposit on the items if wanted. I could get the tools myself if I had to, but my main desire for loaning them (besides saving money) is actually more to find someone near local who may also be able to provide moral support to me if I come upon any problems along the way, and make a new shark friend. You can never have too many 928 friends. Thanks in advance.
Randy
1986.5 Auto
Randy
1986.5 Auto
#2
Rennlist Member
Hello Randy!
I am not in Milwaukee, but I can offer some advice.
Search for John Kelly's 'Timing Belt Manual for the 1985/86 32-Valve Porsche 928S"
I am knee deep in this very same job right now on the Red Witch. John Kelly's manual is a very detailed step-by-step guide specific to the S3 928.
You will have to dig for it. His Rennlist ID is 'JKELLY'. However, he hasn't posted in around 5 years, and there is no PM availability on his page. Search for him and try e-mailing via Rennlist.
Only other thing I can add is you really want to borrow PorKen's 32Vr timing tool and his PKBumpstick. Very handy for checking and adjusting cam timing.
GOOD LUCK!!!
I am not in Milwaukee, but I can offer some advice.
Search for John Kelly's 'Timing Belt Manual for the 1985/86 32-Valve Porsche 928S"
I am knee deep in this very same job right now on the Red Witch. John Kelly's manual is a very detailed step-by-step guide specific to the S3 928.
You will have to dig for it. His Rennlist ID is 'JKELLY'. However, he hasn't posted in around 5 years, and there is no PM availability on his page. Search for him and try e-mailing via Rennlist.
Only other thing I can add is you really want to borrow PorKen's 32Vr timing tool and his PKBumpstick. Very handy for checking and adjusting cam timing.
GOOD LUCK!!!
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you. I cannot seem to find it very easy with a quick text search, but I will dig further for it later today when I get back home. It sounds like it would be very useful as I was planning on going by the S4 instructions on 928 International.
Thanks again
Randy
Thanks again
Randy
#5
Nordschleife Master
Try this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rst-timer.html
Scott did a really nice job both on the car and on the writeup.
I'm up near Appleton, Hacker is near Green Bay. Hacker might have the tools, I don't (not a flywheel lock or Kempf tool).
There's a few in Chicago.
I don't know of anyone in the Milwaukee area.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rst-timer.html
Scott did a really nice job both on the car and on the writeup.
I'm up near Appleton, Hacker is near Green Bay. Hacker might have the tools, I don't (not a flywheel lock or Kempf tool).
There's a few in Chicago.
I don't know of anyone in the Milwaukee area.
#6
Rennlist Member
Read this too. Most of it is applicable to your car: http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.o...0Procedure.htm
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks Linderpat. I love Dwayne's write ups. I did my AC relay replacement via his tutorial. I've been looking at so many of these TB tutorials now that I think I'm beginning to get more confused than anything else.
From what I can gather, the main differences between mine and an S4, with respect to this job, are: Real fan and the throttle linkage assembly mounted to it, doesn't look like I have to remove the 14 pin and back feed that harness, no smog pump, different wiring routing at the front of the engine. I'm sure I've missed things you guys can inform me of.
Also, the couple S3 write ups I've read do not go clearly into the removal of the accessories like Dwayne's does. Do the Alt, AC comp, and PS pump have to actually be fully removed on the S3?
Thanks in advance
From what I can gather, the main differences between mine and an S4, with respect to this job, are: Real fan and the throttle linkage assembly mounted to it, doesn't look like I have to remove the 14 pin and back feed that harness, no smog pump, different wiring routing at the front of the engine. I'm sure I've missed things you guys can inform me of.
Also, the couple S3 write ups I've read do not go clearly into the removal of the accessories like Dwayne's does. Do the Alt, AC comp, and PS pump have to actually be fully removed on the S3?
Thanks in advance
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#8
Rennlist Member
Yes, all will have to come off. Take tons of pictures from every angle you can think of before removing these and as you remove them, photograph the steps. They are like a puzzle to put back together, and you will be glad for the picture references.
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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I am in the middle of same procedure using a combination of Dwayne's write up and Scott's write up. If u find Kelly's write up let me know I was never able to locate it.
Torque value for tensioner bolt is 16 ft lbs. Its not in either writeup. Just waiting for a new tensioner bolt before finishing mine up. Mine appeared slightly bent. Great thread recently on bent bolt on this site.
In addition to usual WP/TB stuff I replaced all the radiator hoses while I was at it. Could not get bottom bolt off thermostat housing. Lose so I put off until I refresh the intakes.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Torque value for tensioner bolt is 16 ft lbs. Its not in either writeup. Just waiting for a new tensioner bolt before finishing mine up. Mine appeared slightly bent. Great thread recently on bent bolt on this site.
In addition to usual WP/TB stuff I replaced all the radiator hoses while I was at it. Could not get bottom bolt off thermostat housing. Lose so I put off until I refresh the intakes.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
#10
Rennlist Member
Scott Yoo condensed his timing belt write up here.
http://www.scott-yoo.com/other/tb.html
Good luck with the change out. And as previously stated, take lots of pictures from many different angles. It will save your bacon!
http://www.scott-yoo.com/other/tb.html
Good luck with the change out. And as previously stated, take lots of pictures from many different angles. It will save your bacon!
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you. I had read Scott's write earlier too. That was why I asked the question about the alternator and power steering pump, as his write up does not mention removing them either. Unless I missed it somewhere. It sounds like he just took the belts off. Maybe he just failed to mention that step.
#13
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The alternator and PS pump console needs to come loose from the block to get the center belt cover off. The alternator pivot bolt runs through that, so the alternator needs to be supported. The PS pump is easy to unbolt from the console itself, with the pulley removed. AC compressor stays in place but the tensioners for that and the air pump get removed on the right (passenger) side. The AC rear pivot bolt gets loosened slightly, and will need to be tightened after the drive belt is installed again.
I can not over stress the need to do your serious cleaning before you remove any bolts. A few cans of engine cleaner and some hot water is usually a good start, but crud will magically appear as you work so be ready. It's way more fun when it's all relatively clean in there.
Drain the oil and the coolant in advance, including the block tally drains. The radiator drains down to about the top of the water pump via the lower hose. There's plenty left in the block to drain down when you loosen the water pump. save a mess in the middle of the project by draining it all first.
I ran two video cameras and narrated the work the first time. Invaluable during reassembly.
I can not over stress the need to do your serious cleaning before you remove any bolts. A few cans of engine cleaner and some hot water is usually a good start, but crud will magically appear as you work so be ready. It's way more fun when it's all relatively clean in there.
Drain the oil and the coolant in advance, including the block tally drains. The radiator drains down to about the top of the water pump via the lower hose. There's plenty left in the block to drain down when you loosen the water pump. save a mess in the middle of the project by draining it all first.
I ran two video cameras and narrated the work the first time. Invaluable during reassembly.
#14
Burning Brakes
Back to the original question, I go through Milwaukee every week and have the crank lock and kemf tool. Timing may be a bit tricky as I have the same job to do on my '85 in the next month or so. I have all the parts that I got from Roger last fall for a winter project but somehow never got to it. Send me a PM with more information about your location and timing. I am sure we can work something out.
#15
Rennlist Member
I have a copy of the Kelly manual, and would be glad to copy relevant pages for you if you run into any stumpers. A couple of years ago I tried to get hold of Kelly to see if he would print more copies or allow an electronic copy to be made available (IIRC) but was not able to connect. It is a great resource.