MahoreLee

It started! And now it starts without the gas fully depressed but still starts rough.

What does this mean?

Mrmerlin

probably a fuel damper or fuel pressure regulator has failed pull off the vacuum line and smell it for fuel if you smell fuel then its best to replace all 3 of these parts

Leon Speed

As I understand it depressing the gas pedal fully while cranking cuts off the fuel injection and opens the air flow. So when the engine is flooded it helps to get things "dry". YMMV. This is just a helpful way to start a flooded engine but says nothing about why the car starts rough in normal conditions.

davek9

If it wasn't running ruff before the dead battery, then you flooded the engine by trying to start it with a weak battery.
Now the plugs need to be cleaned, so drive the car (not just around the block), starting and stopping a cold engine will foul the plugs as all get more fuel when cold and all get fuel even if its not their turn to fire, it's called "batch injection" google it

These cars need a fully charged battery to run correctly due to all the electrical drains and the ECU's.
Most won't go more than a few weeks w/o a charger keeping them up, so if you do not have a charger then disco the battery when not using the car by removing the ground strap under the tool tray.

MahoreLee

Thanks for all the help. The car is running and starting much better now.

I'm glad I removed and checked the gap for the spark plugs. They were mostly at .035 and one was at .020, so i adjusted them all to the proper gap.

I'll try checking the vacuum as sometimes you have to press the gas peddle a little after it starts or it will die.

But first to find the drainage. It's drawing 160 milli amp (I think that's the right unit). Now to pull fuses and try and get it down to 20.

Thanks again everyone.

Imo000

Good that you've adjusted it but spark plug gap is not the problem.

Check if the idle air controller is not stuck open.

Brian'sIris

That's a fairly big current draw and is probably what killed your battery...repeated discharging. Keep your new batt ground strap disconnected till you figure this out. My bet is on the rear defroster relay, that's the reason mine was discharging.

Cheers,
Brian

MahoreLee

I actually just went through most of the fuses. Cig lighter (which does not work) took about 30. The interior light fuse took the majority of it. With it disconnected it draws just 8. I would leave it out but the after market radio won't turn on without the interior light fuse.

I'll search the forums for what to check now that I've narrowed it down to interior light fuse.

Wisconsin Joe

Do the interior lights turn on and off when you open & close the door(s)?

There are little red lights in the backs of the doors that are hidden when the doors are closed. You can roll the window down and look into the inside of the door to see if they are on. It's also possible that a wire is shorting out and leaving them on all the time.

rafed Salkini

Wisconsin Joe

I'd start with basic diagnostics.

Do you have spark?
Do you have injector pulse?

I would also suggest starting a new thread.

"Hello, I'm new and this is my car" threads are usually welcome.
Post some pics of the car, no matter how it looks.

SteveG

I suggest you start your own thread. Although your symptoms are similar, your parts are not the same.

Also new guys, please read the New Visitor thread. There is a diagram of ground points and a lot of other basic info there.

Most of us use batt maintainer, mine is a Schumacher. Batt drains can be impossible to completely solve, not impossible, but . . . .

rafed Salkini