Pulling Engine
03-02-2017, 04:59 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Just installed one last weekend...
Place a floor or bottle jack under upper bell near the TT, raise the TT&Bell until it touches the tunnel.
Make sure that the two (no longer used) sensor pickups that are attached tho the Flywheel are down at 6:00 position by rotating the Crank (clockwise from front of engine) so they clear the Bell housing.
Lift the Engine up and off the MM's and pull it forward and away form the Upper bell.
Place a floor or bottle jack under upper bell near the TT, raise the TT&Bell until it touches the tunnel.
Make sure that the two (no longer used) sensor pickups that are attached tho the Flywheel are down at 6:00 position by rotating the Crank (clockwise from front of engine) so they clear the Bell housing.
Lift the Engine up and off the MM's and pull it forward and away form the Upper bell.
03-02-2017, 06:01 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thanks may give it a try, just less to remove and then re-torque, also no need to lift the rear of the car 
Also don't those trans bolts require removing the E brake cable from the cross member to get a clear shot at them?
Agree that it would be less wiggling about
Thanks again,
Dave
Also don't those trans bolts require removing the E brake cable from the cross member to get a clear shot at them?
Agree that it would be less wiggling about
Thanks again,
Dave
03-02-2017, 06:40 PM
#33
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Location: Memphis, TN 1987 S4
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I removed the wrong two bolts from trans. I did have to remove e-brake cable to get to them. Heading out of town tomorrow. Will have to get on it next week. Thanks guys!
03-02-2017, 08:25 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
03-03-2017, 04:49 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Thanks may give it a try, just less to remove and then re-torque, also no need to lift the rear of the car
Also don't those trans bolts require removing the E brake cable from the cross member to get a clear shot at them?
Agree that it would be less wiggling about
Thanks again,
Dave
Also don't those trans bolts require removing the E brake cable from the cross member to get a clear shot at them?
Agree that it would be less wiggling about
Thanks again,
Dave
03-03-2017, 04:58 PM
#36
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When I pulled my '78 engine, separating the engine from the bell housing was the hardest part of the ordeal. The bell housing parts were basically sealed against each other. I ended up using ratcheting straps to pull the back half enough to use my pry bar in order to finish the job. Best of luck!
03-04-2017, 05:32 PM
#40
03-06-2017, 11:57 AM
#41
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Ok guys. I'm Getting really frustrated with this removal. I checked the two bolts and I had removed the correct two transmission bolts. It won't slide back. I have a pry bar inserted to separate the bellhousing but the pins won't come out and the tranny won't slide back. Are there other tranny bolts holding it in place?
03-06-2017, 12:01 PM
#42
5 speed or auto?
5 speed needs clutch removed.
Auto needs flex plate disconnected from flywheel.
5 speed needs clutch removed.
Auto needs flex plate disconnected from flywheel.
03-06-2017, 12:14 PM
#44
So exhaust, 4 bell housing bolts, flex plate, engine harness, 8 motor mount bolts, A/C, power steering/alternator, coil grounds. If the torque tube is jacked all the way to the tunnel it should come out fairly easy. Nose of the engine up higher than the rear and a bit of wiggling.
