Make a 5-Speed Shift Knob the Old Fashioned Way
#123
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The Auto T-Handle project kind of grew out of this one, or grafted itself onto this one, and with it nearing the molding stage, they are all three about to be kind of combined into what I think will become a production of molding one of each on a daily or weekly basis, and then find themselves reaching the leather covering stage also at about the same time.
I'll be in a position to cut the material for any one of them, then skive and punch it and then lace and form it to the respective handle as needed. I still have some work to do on the skiving machine to figure out how to get it to skive the way I think it is supposed to, or adjust the material patterns to account for how it is not doing it quite right at this point.
I'm also still working on the problem with the large bubble that seems to want to turn up with each one I mold. I think I have it pretty well figured out and will see if my thoughts about that are correct when I start molding the T-Handles. At this point the bubble can be corrected, but it takes an extra step and ties up the mold for the bubble while I mold another of the ***** in the other mold. It will be better if I can inject both, or all three molds in one setting and set them overnight to cure. Then I can perhaps do all three the next day or the next time I can get to it, and not have to deal with the bubble. Too, I think injecting all three molds in one setting limits the bubble, if there is going to be one, to only the first mold injected in that setting.
I'll be in a position to cut the material for any one of them, then skive and punch it and then lace and form it to the respective handle as needed. I still have some work to do on the skiving machine to figure out how to get it to skive the way I think it is supposed to, or adjust the material patterns to account for how it is not doing it quite right at this point.
I'm also still working on the problem with the large bubble that seems to want to turn up with each one I mold. I think I have it pretty well figured out and will see if my thoughts about that are correct when I start molding the T-Handles. At this point the bubble can be corrected, but it takes an extra step and ties up the mold for the bubble while I mold another of the ***** in the other mold. It will be better if I can inject both, or all three molds in one setting and set them overnight to cure. Then I can perhaps do all three the next day or the next time I can get to it, and not have to deal with the bubble. Too, I think injecting all three molds in one setting limits the bubble, if there is going to be one, to only the first mold injected in that setting.
#124
Electron Wrangler
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Jerry - I think you are right - the money & volume is likely in the GTS shifter ****.
There are lots of available used T handles & original manual shifters but not so many used GTS types - so that's the supply side issue.
On the demand side: personally I find the GTS version to be just a much more attractive looking shape and size.
In interior pictures it still always looks odd to me how tall the old style shifters are. Driving one feels odd too: high position & a long throw - it just feels like a different car (but that could be due to missing some horses too).
Nice work on these anyway - they look very well replicated (and slightly improved too...)
Alan
There are lots of available used T handles & original manual shifters but not so many used GTS types - so that's the supply side issue.
On the demand side: personally I find the GTS version to be just a much more attractive looking shape and size.
In interior pictures it still always looks odd to me how tall the old style shifters are. Driving one feels odd too: high position & a long throw - it just feels like a different car (but that could be due to missing some horses too).
Nice work on these anyway - they look very well replicated (and slightly improved too...)
Alan
#125
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Jerry - I think you are right - the money & volume is likely in the GTS shifter ****.
There are lots of available used T handles & original manual shifters but not so many used GTS types - so that's the supply side issue.
On the demand side: personally I find the GTS version to be just a much more attractive looking shape and size.
In interior pictures it still always looks odd to me how tall the old style shifters are. Driving one feels odd too: high position & a long throw - it just feels like a different car (but that could be due to missing some horses too).
Nice work on these anyway - they look very well replicated (and slightly improved too...)
Alan
There are lots of available used T handles & original manual shifters but not so many used GTS types - so that's the supply side issue.
On the demand side: personally I find the GTS version to be just a much more attractive looking shape and size.
In interior pictures it still always looks odd to me how tall the old style shifters are. Driving one feels odd too: high position & a long throw - it just feels like a different car (but that could be due to missing some horses too).
Nice work on these anyway - they look very well replicated (and slightly improved too...)
Alan
Too, the difference in height of the manual shift ***** has most to do with the length of the shift shaft rather than with the ****. The GTS shift ****, as made by the factory, is a bit shorter than the early ones, but only on the bottom end. The shift shaft still goes up to very near the top of the **** inside. I am making my GTS style **** very much like the original GTS ones, but with about 3/4 inch more length on the bottom, otherwise the same inside and at the top. The difference will be almost not noticeable.
I'm not sure just how much difference there might be in the very early manual shift *****, but those too likely have the shift shaft going to very near the top inside.
I also seem to notice that the plastic bases for the manual shift boot are commonly broken and that the leather is pretty much shrunken around them. I expect to have to replicate the plastic boot base for the **** that I might be able to provide for original cars without the flush center console conversion. That may turn in to a fairly complex operation, making them out of pieces of flat ABS plastic.
#126
Electron Wrangler
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...but I don't think you are correct about the Auto T-Handle or the early Manual Shift ****. I don't think either of those are readily available used. I notice Mark A offers about $200 for a good used auto T-Handle; and one is on eBay for about $400, but those, I find are pretty rare.
The comparison point here though should really be for a good condition core (not final leather, with boot & cap) since you could similarly recover & finish any of those as needed to match as you would also need to do with your new cores.
Looking on 928Itnl I see a manual shifter for $125, a 77-78 T-Handle for $30 and two 85-95 T-Handles for $200 & $418, no 80-84 T-Handles are listed currently.
I assume almost every car that comes in to 928Intl has a shifter but many may only be suitable as a core for recovering...?
Yes - would need a different length shaft to put a GTS **** on an earlier car - and I agree you'd may need an option for the plastic boot base ring - most I've seen are are cracked - stronger/thicker material would be better.
Alan
#127
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Hi Jerry-
FWIW (and I'll verify on Monday) several vendors list the plastic 5-speed shift boot bases (928 552 017 00) for $25-30. Hopefully they are readily available so you can focus on the **** and leatherwork.
FWIW (and I'll verify on Monday) several vendors list the plastic 5-speed shift boot bases (928 552 017 00) for $25-30. Hopefully they are readily available so you can focus on the **** and leatherwork.