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On my second trans pan gasket thinking it was leaking due to bent tabs and slightly warped pan. Not so. The leak is coming from this thing from above. What is it? Is this a weekend fix? Or, is it "Add ATF until it's making a mess then have the tranny rebuilt"?
On my second trans pan gasket thinking it was leaking due to bent tabs and slightly warped pan. Not so. The leak is coming from this thing from above. What is it? Is this a weekend fix? Or, is it "Add ATF until it's making a mess then have the tranny rebuilt"?
Pivot pin for kickdown fulcrum. Has an O-ring for a seal, but is staked over and a bit of a pain to change.
Clean it off with some sort of a spray cleaner. Apply a fingertip amount of Drei Bond and forget it.
Is that o-ring something that should be added to a PM schedule next time the pan is down? At 100k and almost thirty years since my trans was originally assembled, it's due for PM replacement of several external-connection seals next time the pan comes down for ATF service.
The things you can learn here... I have been chasing a leak forever. After reading this thread and using the mirror, sure enough! Took master Greg's advice. I'm hopeful...
I had similar small leak I chased forever. It was the o-ring on the kick down cable, which is the yellow thing just to right of pivot in the picture. Replaced it and the leaks were solved.
I had similar small leak I chased forever. It was the o-ring on the kick down cable, which is the yellow thing just to right of pivot in the picture. Replaced it and the leaks were solved.
Yep..the Bowden cable. I had that leak, too. Easy fix with a new O-ring.
Just found Hondabond and two varieties of Three-Bond gasket maker on Amazon.
I notice this leak is only after it sits for awhile. I think it's because the fluid gets pulled up into the transmission when running. I think Greg has mentioned an internal seal starts to fail and allow a good bit of the fluid in the torque converter to leak back to the pan. This would create a slightly higher pressure head on the O-ring (especially due to this being the low side of the pan) forcing the fluid past the failing O-ring at the pivot. To give the bond/sealant the best chance to bond I'm going to start the engine, watch the fluid fall to the mid point between the low and high lines, hit the pivot with brake cleaner, compressed air, then apply the Three/Honda bond. Hoping this will keep the surface dry of ATF while applying the bond.
Tried a quick search for Drei Bond on Amazon. No luck. Is this the German version of YamaHondabond?
No.
And none of the other sealants mentioned are the same, either.....
It's like clear silicone....except it works much better.
Anything that say "cures faster in the presence of oil" is something that every mechanic should have in their toolbox.
You can get it either from your local Porsche dealer under part number 000-043-203-73 (they call it "Window Adhesive"....ignore that) or your local BMW dealer under part number 07 58 9 062 376. About $20 for a tube.
A word of advice...it cures quickly. Leave the lid off of the tube for only as long as you need to get some out and it will last for a long time.
Works great in the corners of valve covers. I always use it to seal the filler neck to the engine blocks (use the new seal/gasket, too)....as this area is a chronic leaker. Works great around the water outlet areas of the heads. There's a bunch of places that we use it.
Porsche quit using Loctite 574 when assembling the late model 911 water cooled engines and use this, instead. I'm certain that they would use this, if they were installing cradles on the bottom of 928 engines, today.
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
02-21-2017, 11:42 PM
Found trans ATF leak - what is this thing?
