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928S euro hard start and no running

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Old 02-16-2017, 09:20 PM
  #31  
SwedeInSiam
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Originally Posted by GerritD
would it be a good idea to remove this accumulator, because not all 928S euro 300hp cars have this accumulator: here is a picture of same
engine without the accumulator:
You can remove the damper/accumulator . Some cars had both damper and Hot start Solenoid, some cars only the solenoid and some none of it.

My car had the Hot Start solenoid removed and I plan to put it back, Hot start is a issue in Thailand
Just need to find all the missing parts. Anybody have some of the pipes etc for sale
Old 02-17-2017, 10:51 AM
  #32  
GlenL
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Perplexing. So it started to run poorly, died and didn't restart except for a brief period.

The cold start injector will start the car. It usually lasts a bit longer than two seconds.

You say the engine was "overhauled." What, specifically, was done? What was the history of the car before that?

I'd leave that can alone. It's unlikely to be your problem.
Old 02-17-2017, 03:38 PM
  #33  
Guy
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My bet is a blockage in the system. Break out your gauges and run your pressure checks. JIM'S site 928classics.com has a great quick CIS list.

you can also remove your aircleaner assembly, and try very lightly applying pressure to the air meter plate to see if you can keep it running as some one else turns the key. This will be a quick sign that your mixture is off and that may be due to pressures or a/f adjustment. Good luck!
Old 02-17-2017, 06:47 PM
  #34  
GerritD
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Glen,

I overhauled the engine myself : new piston rings, new main and piston bearings, new seals for crankshaft , for inlet/outlet valves and for the cams, a new water pump , new belts, PKTensioner . here are some pics :











The car was in bad shape, it drove though but I replaced everything, resprayed body, new brakes and overhaul also of automatic gearbox
The engine which was in the car when I bought the car was the wrong engine : it was a 4.5L euro 240hp non S engine . Engine was completely worn ( bad compression causing oil to be
thrown out via crankcase vent)
However before purchasing a used 4.7L engine which I overhauled, I drove the car with old 4.5l engine for about 6years! never had starting issues !
Old 02-17-2017, 06:52 PM
  #35  
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Guy,

thanks for the tip! I am also more and more convinced that somewhere in the fuel supply there is something clogged!

I will first remove the fuel damper because this came with the engine and set unused for several years. perhaps it has dried up during the years and became brittle and clogged when
operating it after several years
Old 02-18-2017, 09:06 AM
  #36  
GerritD
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I decide to dismantle the fuel damper and replace it by a fuel line
I also ordered a new fuel filter.
Hopefully I will have some positive results.
I 'll keep you all informed

kr
Old 02-18-2017, 11:46 AM
  #37  
GlenL
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I gotta ask about the picture of the block sealant.

Did you assemble the girdle like that? It's supposed to be rolled on and be very thin. A heavy application (as pictured) doesn't squeeze out enough (and do you want that in the engine?) and can lead to leaks. I also wonder if it doesn't affect bearing tolerance.
Old 02-18-2017, 04:47 PM
  #38  
GerritD
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Originally Posted by GlenL
I gotta ask about the picture of the block sealant.

Did you assemble the girdle like that? It's supposed to be rolled on and be very thin. A heavy application (as pictured) doesn't squeeze out enough (and do you want that in the engine?) and can lead to leaks. I also wonder if it doesn't affect bearing tolerance.
Glen,
the block sealant is quite special and specially made for these applications. It hardens between 2 flat materials but it dissolves in oil and does not harden when there is contact with air. But it will really seal.
Besides, after first startup I replaced the oil.
Old 02-22-2017, 09:46 AM
  #39  
GerritD
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Question

I found the root cause : injection distributor is not providing gasoline to the injectors.
There is gasoline to the WUR and to the cold start injector but not to the 8 injectors .
I even checked if pressure is too low to open the injector, by just unscrewing the injector from the line and putting little bucket under the line from injection distributor, but not a single drop!
So it is not just pressure, it is completely clogged.

Any idea where the problem is located in my injection distributor?

Old 02-22-2017, 10:54 AM
  #40  
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Going back a bit, that's way too much sealant. Whether it's "fine" in the engine or not it'll be too thick for the gap. People have had leakage problems doing that and it's gotta affect bearing clearance.

How did you test the FD? Did you jumper the fuel pump and push down on the air plate?

I'll ask again: What was the history of the car? To the point: was it sitting for months or years?
Old 02-22-2017, 03:32 PM
  #41  
GerritD
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Originally Posted by GlenL
Going back a bit, that's way too much sealant. Whether it's "fine" in the engine or not it'll be too thick for the gap. People have had leakage problems doing that and it's gotta affect bearing clearance.

How did you test the FD? Did you jumper the fuel pump and push down on the air plate?

I'll ask again: What was the history of the car? To the point: was it sitting for months or years?
Oil pressure and bearing clearance is fine, no issues with Oil or other leakages.
Fuel damper could not really be tested, it is not leaking and fuel can pass so it is not clogged.
I did jumper fuel pump and could hear it pumping and could smell fuel at the engine. I could press down air plate and did feel resistance of fuel plunger under pressure.
Starting the engine, no fuel came out if the injectors (I connected one out of the engine)

Car has no history. But previous engine with the same components ran fine till I switched the engine . I kept all fuel components filled with fuel till I reused them on the new engine.
Old 02-22-2017, 04:05 PM
  #42  
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By "FD" I mean fuel distributor.

Try jumpering the fuel pump and then pressing on the air plate with a fuel injector line off. It should dribble some gas.

Any changes to the mixture adjustment screw?
Old 02-22-2017, 04:51 PM
  #43  
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I did test the FD but same result, no fuel to injectors. btw, when starting the engine, I could see the metering plate go down.
I did the test with the mixture screw completely turned CCW and thus very lean.
This should not influence the starting, it should always give fuel.

Could FD be clogged internally? Do you have any exploded view of the FD and how fuel is distributed?
Old 02-22-2017, 04:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GerritD
I did test the FD but same result, no fuel to injectors. btw, when starting the engine, I could see the metering plate go down.
I did the test with the mixture screw completely turned CCW and thus very lean.
This should not influence the starting, it should always give fuel.

Could FD be clogged internally? Do you have any exploded view of the FD and how fuel is distributed?
The cold injector is independent of the FD. It provides fuEl at start up. If all the way lean, no fuel will flow from the injectors. Carefully turn CW until the hole for the banjo bolt on the injector fills with fuel.
Old 02-22-2017, 06:38 PM
  #45  
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Guy,

are sure that when turning the mixture screw all the way lean (CCW) that no fuel
is delivered to the injectors? The Porsche WSM says otherwise : you need to adjust from lean to rich :



Which banjo hole are you referring to? This is not clear to me, do you have a pic?


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