Mongo

Dr Bob I stripped the other block drain Years ago you told me to take a garden hose on the upper hose outlet, and flush through the thermostat housing in the event the block drains cannot be removed. Going to try that flush method and follow up with distilled.

Mongo

Since the block drains cannot be removed, I flushed the long way. Garden hose first, then fed it with distilled. Letting the front of the engine dry put before prying out that inner seal that has glued itself to the water bridge

dr bob

And the winner is..... <waits for sound of the envelope tearing open>

The suspenders are killing me.

Rob Edwards

See post #124.

Mrmerlin

Nice Rob

Mongo

Thermostat seal fattened up preventing full opening of the thermostat??? At least that's what I think it is.

Rob Edwards

FTFM.

Mongo

This is weird, my new thermostat seal does not fit into the recess. I don't remember struggling installing this before. It's almost the same diameter as the recess. Tried WD40 on it but no success.

The part number is 928 106 163 00. Wrong o-ring for an S4? Or overmolded seal?

Mrmerlin

the metal band is still inserted into the water bridge,
pry the old seal edge into the opening.

NOTE put a rag under the seal so it wont fall down and then the water pump has to come off
NOTE there is only one seal, if it is not close to sliding into the bore then the old seal is still in their

Speedtoys

That doesnt make sense..the bottom of the thermostat seals down onto the rubber ring...theres nothing in the way of it opening...


?

Mongo

Makes all the sense in the world. The ring that comprised the seal camouflaged itself. Got it out now.

Found my lower radiator hose had this strange lip to it where it is clamped down. This may have also been a part overheating since it looks like it could introduce some air into the system.

Ordering a new one today.

Mongo

Had to order a new lower radiator hose from Roger. I am now delayed a little bit until I can get it all back together to see if the new thermostat fixes the issue, which I hope it does.

dr bob

A seal that campusflanged (fiksed tht speeling for yuo) itself like that isn't uncommon. If that helps.

The lower hose is likely the same age as the other hoses. Probably newer than all but the little stub between the head and heater control valve. Replace the other five hoses while everything is drained. My thinking anyway. Reservoir cap too if it's not pretty new. WYAIT stuff.

Openings/gaps in cooling hoses don't suck air in, but they do leak and draw air into the reservoir to replace the lost coolant. In my experience anyway.

Mongo

Reservoir cap is new. Done 6 months ago. However the smaller hose to the heater Y-pipe needs some loving. Looking for one now..

Mongo

Car is back together. Will run it tonight and check for overheating again. Used Zerex G05 as coolant now. Since the block is full of water from the back flushing from the top radiator hose outlet, I am just adding straight antifreeze in. Doing an oil change prior to restart since the car is already up on stands.