Mrmerlin

OP actually it would be right where its running,
this is as far forward as the damper will let the belt run,
the front edge of the belt will continue to wear till the belt snaps .
once the pivot bolt and bushings are corrected ,
then the belt will move slightly to the rear of of the pulley

Guy

Look at all that mess. This car didn't even travel a mile with this belt. Maybe 1 hour of total run time. I am happy to have caught it on the earlier side. I am replacing the washer on the crank as it is badly beat up by the belt rub.

note where the belt is riding on the lower roller....

The pivot bolt doesn't look bent, and even against a machinist rule, it doesn't appear to be off. It didn't feel right coming out. Even with new bushings, it seemed to drag on one side more than the other. I am replacing it either way.

the smaller pivot bolt is NLA and Roger is out. Would like tone use the 83 arm and bolt but am still investigating the differences. Anyone aware if that if that swap is possible. Looks like the original arm part number may have been superceded to the later arm at some point.

worf928

There are also tensioner body changes to watch out for. You need to make sure that the carrier arm is 'compatible' with the tensioner body where 'compatible' means: does the ball cup in the arm line up with the plunger in the tensioner (when the arm is installed with a known-straight pivot bolt of course.)

There are other folks more OB-knowledgeable that might be able to rattle off the combos from memory.

Guy

I am going to put a micrometer on it tonight to double check. It looks and lines up fine by eyeball. I would be path of least resistance at this point. The donor car that gave up the arm had good belt tracking. I will use a new bolt, bushings and the newly replaced rollers. Hopefully will eliminate all the variables

Guy