Well...sheeee-yat. In for a penny, in for a pound. I will figure this out and make it right.
OK guys, thanks for all the responses! I am going to work through them one by one, then post more findings.
FredR: I agree about adjusting the driver's side cam shaft. I do not expect a big difference, I just want to get the timing spot on.
As for the belt tension, you have brought up the flaw in my methodology. I put it on the wrong TDC.
When I initially did the check, I just rolled the crank over to TDC and checked belt tension. Later, when I went to check cam timing, I had to roll the crank over another full turn to TDC to get the sprocket marks to line up.
See my next post for the revised belt tension.
Sorry for any confusion. The wire was present from the roller arm to the little socket on the back side of the lower plastic timing cover. What was missing was the actual wire from the wiring harness.
See my next post for where I found it...
soontobered84: You have accurately described the situation. Thanks for the heads-up on where to look for the broken wire stub. I will do so.
See my next post for where I found the belt tension warning wire...
Schocki: WILL DO! I am not starting this engine any time soon. I will replace the pivot bolt. Turns out, that appears to be the only part not replaced when the tensioning system was rebuilt.
Oh yeah...I know Roger. I have paid him more in parts than I paid for the car...
The Forgotten On: I will sh*t myself if I find a cracked camshaft nose. However, I think I will be OK, as I screwed up using the Kempf tool.
See my next post for the revised tension.
Thanks! I am going to make this right.
ammonman: That is the b*tch of this situation. I have an invoice in front of me that tells me all that had been done.
For safety's sake, I am removing everything for cleaning and inspection, then put it back together. Correctly.
Mrmerlin: The cooling system is already drained as I am replacing ALL the coolant hoses and clamps.
I will pay attention when I remove the tensioner pivot bolt. I cannot tell if it is bent now, but I will pull it and find out.
According to the invoice, the tensioner pivot bolt was replaced.
The boot, clamp, and rear gasket appear to be new. I am going to get a new clamp and rear gasket for disassembly and inspection of the tensioner assembly. I don't have any Hondabond. I do have dreibond. I will get some Hondabond.
I will readjust the belt tension.
See my next post for the revised tension reading.
worf928: It has not come to that yet, but it may.
I will remove the bolt and inspect it. According to the invoice, the bolt was replaced. What causes this bolt to get bent?
Thanks for the heads-up on rotating the engine twice between measurements.
2 degrees advanced will not be an issue on the driver's side cam?
I found the belt tension warning wire.
See my other post on where I found it.
Thanks for your advice!
SeanR: I will find out about the roller circlip when I get the balancer off. It is coming off for replacement with one of Greg Brown's ATI Superdampers.
Please elaborate on the water pump pulley. Am I to suspect failure of the water pump as well?
buccicone: I am not throwing rocks right now, I don't want this to turn into bashing. I am just getting an idea what is going on.
As for the belt tension, that was operator error. Please see my next post for the revised tension, as well as where I found the belt tension wire...
davek9: I will pull the pivot bolt and find out. According to the invoice, the bushings were replaced.
I am not sure about the wobbling. I never watched the belt through the cover vent hole with the engine running. I didn't see anything obvious when turning the crank by hand. Would a wobble be visible when turning the engine with the starter?
Thanks, guys. More info in the next post.
Seth K. Pyle