Injector removal tips
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Injector removal tips
Hi guys,
In the process of refreshing the intake on my 83 S (ROW - CIS/ K jet) and having some trouble getting the injectors out. The injector just wants to turn in the much softer aluminium sleeve..... any tips/ ideas on how to remove them?
Thanks
In the process of refreshing the intake on my 83 S (ROW - CIS/ K jet) and having some trouble getting the injectors out. The injector just wants to turn in the much softer aluminium sleeve..... any tips/ ideas on how to remove them?
Thanks
Last edited by ANF; 01-24-2017 at 02:35 AM.
#2
Pro
G'day mate,
Did you try search? Plenty on this topic.
This may help;
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d2GtwBuXWMc
Otherwise when you say "turning in the much softer aluminium sleeve" do you mean it is "rounding off" the edges of the sleeve? the two you have pictures of appear perfectly normal, as in, the injector is seated nicely within the sleeve.
It would be beneficial if you rig up somewhere on your workbench to secure the legs, see above YouTube clip. Actually best done when in situ before removal of the legs IMO.
If it were me, I would apply a little heat to the "Spider Leg" around the sleeve, this should expand the leg enough to allow you to simply use a spanner ( I have forgotten, 13mm?) on the injector to gently unscrew the whole assembly. If they are really frozen in there (and looking at the rust coloured injector they may well be) then PB blaster, or dare I say it AS A LAST RESORT vise grips (over something suitable to prevent the sleeve from inheriting the grip marks).
You will obviously need the whole assembly out as you will be replacing the injector seals, yes?
After that well you probably know what to do, here is what worked for I;
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tallation.html
Whatever you do NO HARD FORCE, it will end in tears, hard metal will win every time!!
Hope this helps.
Did you try search? Plenty on this topic.
This may help;
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d2GtwBuXWMc
Otherwise when you say "turning in the much softer aluminium sleeve" do you mean it is "rounding off" the edges of the sleeve? the two you have pictures of appear perfectly normal, as in, the injector is seated nicely within the sleeve.
It would be beneficial if you rig up somewhere on your workbench to secure the legs, see above YouTube clip. Actually best done when in situ before removal of the legs IMO.
If it were me, I would apply a little heat to the "Spider Leg" around the sleeve, this should expand the leg enough to allow you to simply use a spanner ( I have forgotten, 13mm?) on the injector to gently unscrew the whole assembly. If they are really frozen in there (and looking at the rust coloured injector they may well be) then PB blaster, or dare I say it AS A LAST RESORT vise grips (over something suitable to prevent the sleeve from inheriting the grip marks).
You will obviously need the whole assembly out as you will be replacing the injector seals, yes?
After that well you probably know what to do, here is what worked for I;
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tallation.html
Whatever you do NO HARD FORCE, it will end in tears, hard metal will win every time!!
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Kiwi'79; 01-24-2017 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Additional text
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
G'day mate,
Did you try search? Plenty on this topic.
This may help;
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d2GtwBuXWMc
Otherwise when you say "turning in the much softer aluminium sleeve" do you mean it is "rounding off" the edges of the sleeve? the two you have pictures of appear perfectly normal, as in, the injector is seated nicely within the sleeve.
It would be beneficial if you rig up somewhere on your workbench to secure the legs, see above YouTube clip. Actually best done when in situ before removal of the legs IMO.
If it were me, I would apply a little heat to the "Spider Leg" around the sleeve, this should expand the leg enough to allow you to simply use a spanner ( I have forgotten, 13mm?) on the injector to gently unscrew the whole assembly. If they are really frozen in there (and looking at the rust coloured injector they may well be) then PB blaster, or dare I say it AS A LAST RESORT vise grips (over something suitable to prevent the sleeve from inheriting the grip marks).
You will obviously need the whole assembly out as you will be replacing the injector seals, yes?
After that well you probably know what to do, here is what worked for I;
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tallation.html
Whatever you do NO HARD FORCE, it will end in tears, hard metal will win every time!!
Hope this helps.
Did you try search? Plenty on this topic.
This may help;
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d2GtwBuXWMc
Otherwise when you say "turning in the much softer aluminium sleeve" do you mean it is "rounding off" the edges of the sleeve? the two you have pictures of appear perfectly normal, as in, the injector is seated nicely within the sleeve.
It would be beneficial if you rig up somewhere on your workbench to secure the legs, see above YouTube clip. Actually best done when in situ before removal of the legs IMO.
If it were me, I would apply a little heat to the "Spider Leg" around the sleeve, this should expand the leg enough to allow you to simply use a spanner ( I have forgotten, 13mm?) on the injector to gently unscrew the whole assembly. If they are really frozen in there (and looking at the rust coloured injector they may well be) then PB blaster, or dare I say it AS A LAST RESORT vise grips (over something suitable to prevent the sleeve from inheriting the grip marks).
You will obviously need the whole assembly out as you will be replacing the injector seals, yes?
After that well you probably know what to do, here is what worked for I;
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tallation.html
Whatever you do NO HARD FORCE, it will end in tears, hard metal will win every time!!
Hope this helps.
Yes I did do a search and came up with nothing, there was a bit about removing them once you have the sleeve out...... I found that video but it does not mention how to remove seized sleeves.
Yes I do mean rounding off (the 2 shown have not been attempted), I tried one in-situ and it started to round so I backed off, then tried one out and the same happened, as you say "NO HARD FORCE, it will end in tears, hard metal will win every time!!" so was looking for advice. The ones that I have tried are very tight! Tried vice grips with some protection but it started to mark straight away, I feel that I will need some heat to budge them. I will have to look up what PB blaster is?
Being in there for over 30 years is the problem....
Cheers
#5
Pro
PB blaster is a penetrant, we have it here, you should have it over the ditch, CAREFUL as I have no idea how volitile it is with heat
At the end of the day, vise grips may be the answer (though I cringe at the thought) Roger will have new injector sleeves, delivered to your door in about 6 days😎😎
Probably telling you to suck eggs here, but have you given the sleeves a good old "hard tap" from the side to break that thread?
Kiwi
At the end of the day, vise grips may be the answer (though I cringe at the thought) Roger will have new injector sleeves, delivered to your door in about 6 days😎😎
Probably telling you to suck eggs here, but have you given the sleeves a good old "hard tap" from the side to break that thread?
Kiwi
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
PB blaster is a penetrant, we have it here, you should have it over the ditch, CAREFUL as I have no idea how volitile it is with heat
At the end of the day, vise grips may be the answer (though I cringe at the thought) Roger will have new injector sleeves, delivered to your door in about 6 days😎😎
Probably telling you to suck eggs here, but have you given the sleeves a good old "hard tap" from the side to break that thread?
Kiwi
At the end of the day, vise grips may be the answer (though I cringe at the thought) Roger will have new injector sleeves, delivered to your door in about 6 days😎😎
Probably telling you to suck eggs here, but have you given the sleeves a good old "hard tap" from the side to break that thread?
Kiwi
Yes, any flame around any penetrating fluid would be a no!
I have thought about a solid knock to them..... I have also found online a Loctite Freeze spray.... one of these methods has to work....
Can get hold of the sleeves locally, would be better not to have to spend more $$$ on it
#7
Pro
Cheers, I did a quick search, seems similar to Inox. Will hunt it down.
Yes, any flame around any penetrating fluid would be a no!
I have thought about a solid knock to them..... I have also found online a Loctite Freeze spray.... one of these methods has to work....
Can get hold of the sleeves locally, would be better not to have to spend more $$$ on it
Yes, any flame around any penetrating fluid would be a no!
I have thought about a solid knock to them..... I have also found online a Loctite Freeze spray.... one of these methods has to work....
Can get hold of the sleeves locally, would be better not to have to spend more $$$ on it
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#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
#12
Drifting
you need: a threaded coupler that threads on to the injector, 8" bolt & nut with the same thread, a 6' piece of pipe that fits over the injector and is smaller than the aluminium sleeve, and 'fender washer'to fit the bolt.
Thread the coupler on the injector,put the pipe over it. Run the nut up to the top of the bolt, put the washer on and hand tighten it into the coupler. Hold the bolt with one wrench, tighten the nut down and it pulls the injector right out.
After the injectors are out, vice-grips will remove the sleeves more easily.
Thread the coupler on the injector,put the pipe over it. Run the nut up to the top of the bolt, put the washer on and hand tighten it into the coupler. Hold the bolt with one wrench, tighten the nut down and it pulls the injector right out.
After the injectors are out, vice-grips will remove the sleeves more easily.
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have now removed all injectors!
They were all in extremely tight! Vice grips were needed on all and heat on most of them.... the injector sleeves now need to be replaced. Not an overly good design to hold in the injectors, the soft aluminium will always lose out to the hard steel injector... oh well should last me many more years now
All of the seals well and truly needed replacing.
Thanks
They were all in extremely tight! Vice grips were needed on all and heat on most of them.... the injector sleeves now need to be replaced. Not an overly good design to hold in the injectors, the soft aluminium will always lose out to the hard steel injector... oh well should last me many more years now
All of the seals well and truly needed replacing.
Thanks
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
you need: a threaded coupler that threads on to the injector, 8" bolt & nut with the same thread, a 6' piece of pipe that fits over the injector and is smaller than the aluminium sleeve, and 'fender washer'to fit the bolt.
Thread the coupler on the injector,put the pipe over it. Run the nut up to the top of the bolt, put the washer on and hand tighten it into the coupler. Hold the bolt with one wrench, tighten the nut down and it pulls the injector right out.
After the injectors are out, vice-grips will remove the sleeves more easily.
Thread the coupler on the injector,put the pipe over it. Run the nut up to the top of the bolt, put the washer on and hand tighten it into the coupler. Hold the bolt with one wrench, tighten the nut down and it pulls the injector right out.
After the injectors are out, vice-grips will remove the sleeves more easily.
The injectors were easy to remove once the sleeve was removed as was the seal.