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Instead of replacing the oil return pump go with an oil-less turbo.
Much less hassle and more reliable
If I get this one sorted and as I learn more about them, I'm considering putting a kit together for my S4. I may go the oiless route for that one Thanks for the advice!
While waiting for a few items to start sorting the temp issue, and the chipset mapped for the turbo. I thought I would tackle the drivers side rear coil over and SS brake line replacement. This was the only strut and brake line Mark didn't finish. I noticed the drop link (I think that's what its referred to) was right up against the new muffler. When I removed the link, it looks as though it has been filed, but the muffler doesn't have the same wear.
See Video and excuse any camera movement and the poor lighting.
I'm also hoping these Fuchs replicas that came with car will work, they look great. Mark test fit them for me in 2013 and I posted the photo he sent showing the front tire sticking out below. I may be able to find smaller fronts I saw once on wheeler dealers where the shortened the wheel and re-balanced it after taking some width out.
I'm going to keep this thread going for general repairs and upgrades tot he car. I think I'll start a new thread for the Turbo troubleshooting as more folks with Turbo's may be inclined to chime in.
I've also been under the weather with the flu this past week, so progress stalled a bit. Still need some parts to get started with the Turbo and MAF Co idle adjustment.
I had some time tonight and felt a little better , so I started the install of my 12 way adjustable coil over. Followed the removal process per the WSM. I'm kind of stuck at removing the pin in the lower control arm. Tapped it with a hammer seems stuck. any suggestions?
Have a video of the general area that shows the pin in the Lower control arm.
PB Blaster first. Put the front washer and nut on loosely. Use a pry bar under the washer and move the pin forward.
Hit it with PB last night tried to pry using the front washer and and nut. Wouldn't budge. Hit it with more PB letting is soak over night.
Here is a shot of the front side.
Long time since I did mine but they came out fairly easy when I put a jack under the LCA and took a bit of tension / weight out of the joint. Gentle taps with a soft hammer and pin when partially through. Dreaded this job but it was surprisingly easy or the PO lubed them properly when in there before.
Long time since I did mine but they came out fairly easy when I put a jack under the LCA and took a bit of tension / weight out of the joint. Gentle taps with a soft hammer and pin when partially through. Dreaded this job but it was surprisingly easy or the PO lubed them properly when in there before.
I tried that last night but no luck. put pbblast in every nook last night . I'll try the jack again tonight. Mark R. whom I hired to do the job, said he spent 4 hours 3 different days trying to get it out used loads of PB blaster.
Worst case I may have to heat the thing and replace the bushes.
I have had to put the LCA on a jack stand and put a wrench on the nut and then use a floor jack on the free end of the wrench. I was using the weight of the car to break loose that bolt. Once it broke loose, I used an impact wrench to keep turning it while I fed it PB Blaster. A few minutes later, I was able to get the bolt out with no problem.
I've only had to cut one since I've been doing these things. The shock was installed backwards and created a bind but the PO amazingly still was able to put the bolt in. After a period of time the bolt got so bent from driving it that way, there was no way to get it out without cutting it into several pieces. Like I said, only one time have I had to cut the darn thing.
If you haven't already, put the 22mm nut and washer back on the back side. Use a pry bar on that nut to try and rotate the pin. That's usually the first step I do on those, ensure that it will rotate and then pry it out.
From what I recall not uncommon for the pins to come out with a little bow to them. Some postulate from incorrect install of the shocks. Speaking of which, in the vid looked like a dimple of some sort on one of the LCAs, is that factory? Can't get under mine to compare.
Go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a can of Acetone and a bottle of any transmission fluid. If you don't have one laying around the house, pick up a cheap plastic spray bottle.
Add the trans fluid and acetone 50/50 into the bottle. Shake well, and spray everywhere you can get around the pin. Shake each time you use it as the stuff separates quickly inside the bottle.
This home made penetrant works better than anything else I have bought off the shelf.
03-07-2017, 07:49 PM
