Installing all-new clutch and brake hydraulics. Any advice or tips?
#1
Installing all-new clutch and brake hydraulics. Any advice or tips?
Hello !
I'm all set to install clutch master, clutch slave, brake booster and brake master, new brake pressure regulators, and all hard lines.
The engine's out ( I have decided to own an engine-less 928 at this point lol)
so access really isn't much of an issue...
I just wonder if there are any specific recommendations regarding assembly of "the whole enchilada" .
Thanks
I'm all set to install clutch master, clutch slave, brake booster and brake master, new brake pressure regulators, and all hard lines.
The engine's out ( I have decided to own an engine-less 928 at this point lol)
so access really isn't much of an issue...
I just wonder if there are any specific recommendations regarding assembly of "the whole enchilada" .
Thanks
#3
Drifting
If you're going to effort of replacing all brake hydraulics, is it worth refurbing calipers at same time? That would involve replacing all the piston seals and dust boots. Was also going to say bench bleed the master, but with all new and empty lines maybe less point. How about new flexible hoses? Talking of which, smear of antiseize at hard/flexible unions to make future disassembly easy.
#4
Burning Brakes
Be careful when threading the pressure switches into the underside of the M/C. If you hear a little "dink" and it feels like you've stripped the threads, you've just bought a new master cylinder.
Probably safer to install the pressure switches onto the M/C and then installing the M/C. The M/C is cast iron which is rather brittle. If you over tighten, the threaded mounting boss will crack right off. BTDT.
James
Probably safer to install the pressure switches onto the M/C and then installing the M/C. The M/C is cast iron which is rather brittle. If you over tighten, the threaded mounting boss will crack right off. BTDT.
James
#6
Team Owner
make sure to verify that the pistons of both masters move the same amount,
if not then the new parts have an issue where the piston will not travel as far as the original design.
This will limit clutch throw.
So modifying the tip of the new piston by removing 4.5MM and removing some of the spring so it wont go into coil bind must be performed.
I recommend to use the Greg Brown flexible clutch line to the slave,
this removes the hard line that goes over the starter and makes bleeding easy.
I also suggest to install new SS flex lines for the brakes.
Use ATE super gold fluid
if not then the new parts have an issue where the piston will not travel as far as the original design.
This will limit clutch throw.
So modifying the tip of the new piston by removing 4.5MM and removing some of the spring so it wont go into coil bind must be performed.
I recommend to use the Greg Brown flexible clutch line to the slave,
this removes the hard line that goes over the starter and makes bleeding easy.
I also suggest to install new SS flex lines for the brakes.
Use ATE super gold fluid
#7
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Stan, I can't seem to find the thread about modifying the new clutch master piston in order for it to work on the OB's dual disk clutches.
Can you help and attach a link?
thanks so much-hoi
Can you help and attach a link?
thanks so much-hoi
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#8
Hoi, this may be the thread to which you are referring?
Great info in here on clutch master differences/ solutions....
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...on-spring.html
Great info in here on clutch master differences/ solutions....
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...on-spring.html
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Near Mushroom Capital of the World
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Thanks so much Dan! You're the man.
Hoi, this may be the thread to which you are referring?
Great info in here on clutch master differences/ solutions....
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...on-spring.html
Great info in here on clutch master differences/ solutions....
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...on-spring.html