BauerR

1) Would this be the correct pump for my '89? The internal pump is going bad. Also, is this the best place to source this pump? $700 seems vulgar.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...uel%20Pre-Pump

2) A bunch of the tail light, light bulb sockets have lost the little internal "spring" that secure the bulb and at some point a prior owners solution was aluminum foil.
Can these lightbulb sockets be replaced individually and just spliced into the existing harness? Maybe a local auto parts solution?

Thanks

AO

That is the correct pump. Call Roger at 928sRUs or Mark at 928 Int'l for better pricing. It's likely your pump is fine, but needs a new hose. Why do you think you need a new one? Alternatively, you can replace it with a strainer. I know one person has already recommended against this, but I have 3 928s without the internal pump (just the strainer) and all work fine.

You probably can, but i'm not aware of anyone having done so. You might be able to get a good used harness from Mark at 928 Int'l. Not sure what he charges, but I'm sure it ain't cheap.

dr bob

Following some on Andrew's response--

More than a few folks have swapped in just a strainer for the internal pump assembly. Doing that requires a different tank fitting, this time the one with the strainer. The external fuel pump is different if you eliminate the internal pump. You'll want the pump for the S4 that doesn't have the internal pump, if you go that route. If you decide to keep/replace the internal pump, there are a few pieces you'll need beyond just the pump itself unless your replacement is the whole assembly from tank fitting to strainer.

The internal pump is connected to the tank fitting with a short section of hose that's known to be fragile after extended exposure to some fuel components. There's an aftermarket hose option from Greg Brown that helps with this problem, available through Roger at 928srus, and from 928 International, and of course from Greg Brown himself. It uses crimp-style clamps. The original pump is subject to fouling if/when the pump strainer fails. The pump itself is a very simple turbine-style pump, and is sensitive to junk passing through. You can sometimes reverse-flush the pump after removing the strainer, and restore pump function.

----
If you end up with the old pump assembly replaced with new or with just a strainer, I'd like to recover the pieces you take out of the tank. I have the same job coming up, and would like to have everything assembled in advance. PM if you are interested. Thanks!

dr bob

The bulb sockets in the later cars can be replaced with some modified sockets originally fitted to some Ford products. Do a quick search for bulb socket and Mercury in this forum and you'll get some ideas. The sockets need some Dremel or razor-knife surgery on the locking tabs to get them to work, plus you'll splice them into the existing mini-harness on the tail light itself.

For those playing along at home, the original sockets themselves are made with a waterproof seal where each wire enters the socket from the rear. There are thin foam seal rings where the socket mates up against the lamp housing to help keep water out. All of these things help keep the socket barrel and the little leaf-spring contact in the bottom from corroding away. But we still see water damage and corrosion in the sockets, where moisture has been drawn into the lamp housing. Porsche recommended that owners add some small drain holes in the bumper shell to drain water that finds its way into the lamp cavity. This certainly helps a lot. I typically add a bit of Vaseline to the bulb base barrel before inserting the bulb, with a dab to the bottom spring contact inside the socket. I don't know how much all this stuff helps, but after 20 years (damn!) of this treatment the sockets looked brand new when I swapped a couple new bulbs in over the weekend.

PortlandTom

What happens if you replace the internal pump but use the original external pump? I bought parts to replace the internal pump, but thought I could keep the external pump. Isn't it powerful enough by itself?

Tom D.
'93 GTS, 5sp.

dr bob

It depends... the dual pump is a "system" where the pump in the tank pushes liquid to the outboard tank. The total available discharge head is the same as the single pump. Take away part of that and you are --probably-- OK most of the time. On hot days, AC running is stalled traffic, the fuel gets hot enough to boil in the suction end of the main pump alone. That's why the second pump was originally fitted in the tank, swimming in the fuel -- less inlet restriction and less boiling.

My basic rule on stuff like this is that there was a reason the factory fitted the cars with the in-tank pump. So mine still has one. Others have reported that they are not seeing any problems running with the in-tank pump removed. Again, the single pump cars have a different part number, and still the same discharge flow and pressure requirements. They wouldn't need to change part numbers it it's the same pump, right? I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences. If you do decide to just delete the internal pump, help the remaining pump by keeping the fuel level up while driving, especially on warm days.

Mrmerlin

in lieu of swapping in a new lamps socket simply push the wire through and solder the wire to the bottom of the bulb,
pry the edge so the bulb body is under pressure and all the lamps will work