Catorce

Got he ball joint boot on the left side that was torn. No offense to the Porsche cultists, but They had their head in their *** when they speced these ball joints. Mostly, they were build by Lemforder (of quality Turbo Tie Rod fame), but they are still a lame design.

There is no way to stop the ball joint shaft turning while turning the interference fit ball joint nut. Most cars have a grooved shaft you can get a wrench on to stop it from turning.

Here is the way I do it. Works like a charm.

C clamp squashes the two joints together so that the shaft binds in the cup of the steering knuckle, causing it to stop spinning.

Catorce

The new master cylinder and booster are S4 spec, and what that means as Jim explained a few pages back is that the arrangement of the brake lines is a little different in the newer cars. basically, the front circuit drives the front brakes, the rear circuit drives the rear on the late cars.

So I had to convert the lines over to this spec to match, since the master cylinder has one fewer port than the new one.

Interestingly, the PET calls for a T fitting to split the front brakes. Hilariously, it has a 914 part number, which was peachy because the last project I did was my 914-6, and I had one of these left over.

Behold the S4 spec braking system, complete. Had to make a little bracket to hold the T.

Really happy with this upgrade as the S4 brakes really should have the S4 booster and master driving them, however slight the differences may be.

James Bailey

The S-4 brake master is of course a two piston design. The rear most (next to the booster) has a larger bore. That larger bore moves more fluid to drive the larger front brakes. The smaller bore (farthest from the booster) is for the rear smaller brakes. The early cars had two bores the same size.

Catorce

So I got them in the wrong holes then??

James Bailey

I think so.....but not 100 % sure Have not looked at PET or any other 928 stuff for many years
Logic however implies that if a single master cylinder has two different size bores....the smaller one has to be in the front or you could not assemble it.

Catorce

Thanks man, I got them switched around. Not having an S4 to look at, I really appreciate your experience!

Catorce

Here is the PET. Once I magnified it, you can tell that line #3 that connects to the front brake goes to the back port.

GOOD MEMORY JIM!

Catorce

Cleaned up the steering rack, removed the steering shaft. All looks to be ok - except the steering wheel shaft nut was finger loose....I mean you could literally spin it with your finger.

Check out the shaft stripped of paint. Definitely a custom build.

Some observations:

- Bearings look good, but there is some drag in the steering shaft. Have to look more closely at this.

- First time I have really examined the steering wheel. It's got a custom made quick release that's a frigging joke. When I went to assemble the steering shaft, after I torqued the nut down, I put on the steering wheel. it's got a big aluminum nut that you hand tighten down to hold the wheel on. Except there is a huge amount of slop in it. Totally unacceptable.

This part will need to be replaced.

Carl Fausett

We removed that vibration isolator on my race car once - thought it would make more room for headers and also provide better feel for the driver. Nope. On my car (a 1978) we found that it actually took up a little mis-alignment between the top of the shaft and the bottom. When I removed the rubber coupling and bolted it straight up, the steering had a catch in it twice on every revolution. Dangerous, I thought. So we put it back.

Carl Fausett

Adam,

Your aluminum coolant reservoir is leaving here today for you. I want you to get it while you are working in the engine bay prior to the motor arriving.

I am also including some sway bar mount reinforcements I want you to weld in. I provided instructions. The sway bar mounts on the 928 are unsupported sheet-metal. They are adequate for the stock sway bars, no problem. But when tracking a 928 - high cornering loads plus a big sway bar can and will crack the stock mounts. So we buttress them and then they never break. These are on their way to you now.

Catorce

Thanks Carl!

Catorce

There's lots of stuff on this car that in my opinion is either experimental, untested, or a one off. In some cases it's all three!

I am going to run it as it was designed by Bob - at least give some of these mods a chance - before replacing them if need be.

Some of the stuff is downright stupid ( the steering wheel quick release, for example), but it's likely that Bob did not have a ton of options for this sort of gear in the early nineties.

Some of the stuff, like the steering shaft, I don't have an opinion on as of yet. I have three cars with the rubber puck. I have two other cars that don't have it.

My 944 Turbo (actually it's a 1991 944S2 with a turbo motor in it) has a solid shaft from the factory and it has one of the best steering feels of any car i have.

I guess we will just have to see.....

Catorce

Just realized I did not post pics of the home made steering quick release and the brake bias valve. The bias valve is a Tilton unit, and I will be keeping it.

Imo000

That pretty clever for a home made quick release.

Carl Fausett

I needed a quick-release too when I had a large round wheel like that. Had to take the wheel off to get in and (more importantly) OUT of the car.

When I replaced the steering wheel with a "D" model (flat on the bottom) found it no longer neccesary.

Still - other reasons to have a quick-release: great to have when working on the car under-dash and stuff, so handy to get the steering wheel out of the way... And moving the steering wheel closer to me by that 1.5" is a lot more comfortable (I have the seat pretty far back).