Steve Drake

OK, I made an LED for 12 volts and did the CO MAF and idle screw adjustment two weeks ago. Seemed to go OK. Did some starter relay work and after that the car missed and ran poorly. So I checked and found the OHMS at the LH cable was maxed out (99.0 on my meter). Turned it down to 34.0 with my meter. Car runs much better but not able to get the LED on however I turn the CO screw with B and C not connected. With the LH cable test Ohms set at in reasonable range by turning the CO adjuster the car runs good but idle is a bit high. Can get LED to blink rapidly with the B and C jumped. but not at all with the jumper off. Can't fine tune the idle mixture. I see the A pin connects to the LH terminal 22. Why it won't come on with the idle controller turned off is beyond me unless that control is now bad. The thing is the idle does change when I connect C to B and disconnect it.

Any clues what could cause the LED blink test will not to work properly?

Looking for a copy of the Blinker schematic with the yellow and red
LEDs and switch to make the proper one if anyone has it. Also the instructions that came with it. Understand it is not for sale now.

So here is where I sit with the CO MAF and idle adjustment. I have set the LH cable resistance to about 22.7 ohms per my meter.
Tested the ABC voltage with the key on they are
A=11.6 v
B=5.4 v
C= 0 v

With the key off the LED hooked + to the 12volt jumper pole and the negative side to the A terminal the LED is on but not real bright.

If I can get her to clearly pass smog and running solid. Will begin the cosmetic work. Can't wait. Found a good guy to recover the seats.
Looking for a guy in Southern CA to take out some small dents by paint-less method.

There are 2 water temp sensors on the front of the motor. sensor II (square base) tests fine, The one below when I unplug the leads shows ohms readings only on the back pin but not the front pin. There is also no resistance between them if there should be. Guess I will replace it. Does this effect fuel mixture?



My main issue it I need to bring down my HC output to get a good smog test. Last test was at max at 15 MPH and just over max on 25 MPH test. Would like to have successfully tested the systems that could effect mixture before retesting smog.

Still doing a few things that may help like:
replacing the rearward vacuum control valve
test Ohms of the injectors and clean them.
replace fuel filter. Car sat for about 5 years.
remove and clean the throttle body to see if I can get t return spring tighter
Replacing a bad trans lock out switch that I had to jumped around relay.
Replace odometer gear and install new ignition switch while in there.

Cleaning up 928's can be a real moving target.
Thanks for the forum and the experts to turn to when I hit the limit of my knowledge.
Cheers, Steve
'86.5 auto trans always garaged. Owned it 25 years. Kind of like it.

M. Requin

You may have already consulted this but here's info on the Blink'r directly from him who came up with it (note post #40) https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-85-86-us.html

Steve Drake

Thanks M. Requin, Yes I have read this post a few times but I suppose I learn something new each time I have a new issue. Since the oxygen sensor is what sends the pulses to the A terminal I will again test it. Tested the O2 sensor and it was giving me the right output two weeks ago. Will recheck it.
I see the comment about the 5 volts of B switching off when B and C are connected. That gives me a clue how to wire a switch for the WOT LED. Think I can make the tool.
Thanks, Steve