vze2jshn

When I start the car after it has been sitting, I can not get it into first or reverse at high idle - when I try the gears grind. Is this a synchro problem and do first and reverse share the same synchro? Thanks for any comments.

linderpat

Have you tried to push the clutch in and let it out partway, and drop the rpm that way? I noticed on mine that it takes a moment or two for the tranny to warm up before I can smoothly shift. I shift into reverse first, to get things loosened up, then it smoothly shifts into first after that.

worf928

Your dual-mass clutch is, best case, out of adjustment. You're not getting enough travel of the pressure plates to completely release the friction discs.

It's quite possible for a DD clutch to work when everything's warm, but not when it's cold.

There are tons of threads on dual-disc clutch alignment.

If you're sure it is adjusted correctly then report back...

vze2jshn

I usually put it in reverse before I start her up and back out of the garage. When the engine warms up a bit and rpms start to drop I can ease into first gear and then reverse and also after driving and parking I can also nudge or drop into first and then reverse. When cold with higher rpms she will not go into any gear. So I think it is temp/rpm getting things moving related and not synchro related. Good to hear I'm not alone

I am very familiar with the clutch adjustment situation/issue and have addressed it. Thanks for the comments gents.

granprixweiss928

Sounds like clutch adjustment or clutch shaft (short splined axle) not properly lubricated, causing drag on driveline when at higher rpm and cold. Once warmed up the torque is reduced and the lubrication may be more viscous.

Was clutch recently serviced with all the proper greases and anti seize?

On my car, when cold, it will grind in first and reverse if i dont give enough time for the driveshaft and trans internals to stop spinning after depressing the clutch pedal, but this is syncros not clutch.

Mrmerlin

I would also check the release arm bushing,
and if the clutch master has been changed maybe the piston wasnt cut down.
NOTE the replacement MC has a shorter stroke.
Also with a 5 speed avoid pressing the clutch till after the engine is started,
reason is there isnt any oil pressure holding the crank off the thrust bearing.
This will prolong the thrust bearings life

hacker-pschorr

As others have pointed out, the clutch is your problem.

Continuing to drive this way is slowly damaging your transmission. It's a false positive once warmed up that you "think" it's working. It may be better, it's not perfect. This is why early cars are often advertised as having a "common" gear crunch.... due to years of being driven with a clutch not fully releasing all the time.

Even if it does start to work 100% once fully warmed up, that first pull into 2nd gear certainly isn't and that's not good for the synchro.

Everyone needs to realize that when everything is working properly, even the early cars shift like butter 100% of the time. Any variance from this, stop driving the car and fix the problem.