Slow and Methodical: 1983 928s Back from the Dead
11-21-2016, 06:31 PM
#46
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
More clean pics
I should have posted these last night as well...more nice clean parts!
Thanks all you guys for the kind words and support. You guys who have been through this before know how gratifying it is to bring something back to life -
-scott
Thanks all you guys for the kind words and support. You guys who have been through this before know how gratifying it is to bring something back to life -
-scott
11-21-2016, 09:33 PM
#47
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
And on the 8th day of Christmas (ok, so its early)
My true love gave to me...
8 Re-built Fuel Injectors!
Very easy to do. Got the kit from Mr. Injector (tip from Wayne Strutt). Great to deal with. Somehow we got the initial order mixed up and I had the replacement kit in two days with an envelope to return the original shipment.
Kit was absolutely complete and Bill even included an extra filter and pintle cap in case I messed one up (thankfully I did not).
You can see the pics below. I replaced the big rubber ring, the pintle cap and the filter on each one. You can see how the rubber ring was deformed after 30+ years. The pintle caps were dried out and basically splintered apart. Filters were dirty. New parts are high quality and look good!
Thanks Bill and Wayne!
8 Re-built Fuel Injectors!
Very easy to do. Got the kit from Mr. Injector (tip from Wayne Strutt). Great to deal with. Somehow we got the initial order mixed up and I had the replacement kit in two days with an envelope to return the original shipment.
Kit was absolutely complete and Bill even included an extra filter and pintle cap in case I messed one up (thankfully I did not).
You can see the pics below. I replaced the big rubber ring, the pintle cap and the filter on each one. You can see how the rubber ring was deformed after 30+ years. The pintle caps were dried out and basically splintered apart. Filters were dirty. New parts are high quality and look good!
Thanks Bill and Wayne!
02-19-2017, 10:47 PM
#48
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Latest updates...
Well - after my ordeal with the intake refresh and broken bolts, etc., it was time to move on.
Engine is running pretty well (still needs a good fine tune) and I have replaced all of the belts. Time to move on to the brakes.
From day one, I have had issues with the brakes and after replacing the MC (to no avail), decided my issue was with the calipers themselves. It appeared that as many as 3 of the 4 pistons may be stuck.
Well, starting in the back, I was correct. Both rear pistons were stuck in the nasty cylinders. I pulled them apart and media blasted the calipers.
Moving to the front, drivers side was stuck as well. So it appears I was really only getting any braking at all from the passenger side front.
See the pics for the yucky details.
After the brakes I knew I needed to tackle the rear shift coupler (I had lost the ability to go into 1st/3rd/5th gear. Needless to say it was trashed. Grub screw came out surprisingly easy. The 13mm nut was tougher to remove. Trashed the boot, but had to piece back together with zip ties when finished. One bushing (what was left) had fallen out completely and the other was on the verge.
So after all that I have a great feeling shifter (am still going to install a short shifter). Brakes are still not where I want them, but better.
Enjoy some pics of the latest work. Axle shafts and rear wheel bearings are next.
-scott
Engine is running pretty well (still needs a good fine tune) and I have replaced all of the belts. Time to move on to the brakes.
From day one, I have had issues with the brakes and after replacing the MC (to no avail), decided my issue was with the calipers themselves. It appeared that as many as 3 of the 4 pistons may be stuck.
Well, starting in the back, I was correct. Both rear pistons were stuck in the nasty cylinders. I pulled them apart and media blasted the calipers.
Moving to the front, drivers side was stuck as well. So it appears I was really only getting any braking at all from the passenger side front.
See the pics for the yucky details.
After the brakes I knew I needed to tackle the rear shift coupler (I had lost the ability to go into 1st/3rd/5th gear. Needless to say it was trashed. Grub screw came out surprisingly easy. The 13mm nut was tougher to remove. Trashed the boot, but had to piece back together with zip ties when finished. One bushing (what was left) had fallen out completely and the other was on the verge.
So after all that I have a great feeling shifter (am still going to install a short shifter). Brakes are still not where I want them, but better.
Enjoy some pics of the latest work. Axle shafts and rear wheel bearings are next.
-scott
02-22-2017, 08:51 AM
#55
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Heh heh....well that's next on the to-do list. Surprisingly, the compressor actually works. Its low on R-12 I believe and needs a recharge, and the vacuum system for the controls needs some work.
I am relieved that the compressor works though - it seems like the refrigerant part of the system is most expensive and laborious to tackle!
-scott
I am relieved that the compressor works though - it seems like the refrigerant part of the system is most expensive and laborious to tackle!
-scott
05-10-2017, 10:03 AM
#56
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Updates and HVAC questions
Well its been a while but I have been out driving!
So I finally pulled the HVAC controller last night. Came out pretty easily. Got the H-piece out intact but the bottom left piece around the radio was broken previously.
Plan to clean everything out really good (dust and dirt) and will open the controller tonight to clean and check all operations with the trusty ohmmeter.
Will also test all vac functions with it out as well.
One thing I have noticed that I thought was maybe strange...
When I pulled the vent out last night to start removal, I noticed the flap in the main vent was closed (see pics). I could push down on the actuator and it would move (open the vent) but it went right back closed when I let go (this is with the controlled still connected but the motor off.
This morning I went ahead and drove to work - controller is out of car now. At some point, the flap in the center vent opened. I did not fiddle with it, but not sure how it would have opened with no controller to tell the vac system to open it. When I parked the car and turned the motor off, the flap stayed open.
After sitting for 1 1/2 hours, I just went out and checked and the flap has closed.
So what is the default behavior with the controller out? Thinking this might help me diagnose other issues with the system (air distribution lever does nothing, intermittent full on heat at all times, etc.)
Thanks all -
So I finally pulled the HVAC controller last night. Came out pretty easily. Got the H-piece out intact but the bottom left piece around the radio was broken previously.
Plan to clean everything out really good (dust and dirt) and will open the controller tonight to clean and check all operations with the trusty ohmmeter.
Will also test all vac functions with it out as well.
One thing I have noticed that I thought was maybe strange...
When I pulled the vent out last night to start removal, I noticed the flap in the main vent was closed (see pics). I could push down on the actuator and it would move (open the vent) but it went right back closed when I let go (this is with the controlled still connected but the motor off.
This morning I went ahead and drove to work - controller is out of car now. At some point, the flap in the center vent opened. I did not fiddle with it, but not sure how it would have opened with no controller to tell the vac system to open it. When I parked the car and turned the motor off, the flap stayed open.
After sitting for 1 1/2 hours, I just went out and checked and the flap has closed.
So what is the default behavior with the controller out? Thinking this might help me diagnose other issues with the system (air distribution lever does nothing, intermittent full on heat at all times, etc.)
Thanks all -
05-10-2017, 02:55 PM
#58
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Updates
Finally got the case open and only cracked one clip - pretty good I think!
Update on the center vent. When I left the office, as soon as I gave the motor a bit of gas and it revved a little, the flap began its very smooth opening. It is only opening to stage one, apparently, and never has opened fully either coming or going to work today.
The temp here is around 83F right now. About 60 this morning when I left the house.
Fixed a broken slider that I am sure will break again. REady now to clean the traces on the boards and test all of the electrical components (relay, diodes, etc.).
-scott
Update on the center vent. When I left the office, as soon as I gave the motor a bit of gas and it revved a little, the flap began its very smooth opening. It is only opening to stage one, apparently, and never has opened fully either coming or going to work today.
The temp here is around 83F right now. About 60 this morning when I left the house.
Fixed a broken slider that I am sure will break again. REady now to clean the traces on the boards and test all of the electrical components (relay, diodes, etc.).
-scott
05-11-2017, 11:30 AM
#59
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Two points of interest at this time.
1 the relay in the HVAC head to pick the compressor clutch is undersized. Search for 'ice cube relay' in the 928 section and locate the upgrade method for the relay. It'll take a few hours to do, and you need a ext relay and a few small wires.
2. The vac actuators for almost all of your vent controls are likely in rough shape. You can test them by applying voltage to all the little solenoids on the left footwell side of the center console, or better you can just replace them all now while it's mostly apart. The indication that the center vent damper only partially opens under engine vac indicates that the whole system is losing vacuum somewhere. There is also a 4 way splitter under the hood near the brake booster that draws and distributes vac to the HVAC solenoids that is a common failure point. You need good vac supply, and good vac solenoids, and good vac actuators to get the whole thing working right. Search in 928 for 'vacuum solenoid' or 'vacuum actuator' replacement and will find the process. Roger stocks the actuators, they are not rebuidable.
1 the relay in the HVAC head to pick the compressor clutch is undersized. Search for 'ice cube relay' in the 928 section and locate the upgrade method for the relay. It'll take a few hours to do, and you need a ext relay and a few small wires.
2. The vac actuators for almost all of your vent controls are likely in rough shape. You can test them by applying voltage to all the little solenoids on the left footwell side of the center console, or better you can just replace them all now while it's mostly apart. The indication that the center vent damper only partially opens under engine vac indicates that the whole system is losing vacuum somewhere. There is also a 4 way splitter under the hood near the brake booster that draws and distributes vac to the HVAC solenoids that is a common failure point. You need good vac supply, and good vac solenoids, and good vac actuators to get the whole thing working right. Search in 928 for 'vacuum solenoid' or 'vacuum actuator' replacement and will find the process. Roger stocks the actuators, they are not rebuidable.
05-11-2017, 11:47 AM
#60
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
More on AC related repairs.
Remove the trim panel where the wiper arms are, and you will find the blower asm. It will have a rubber duct connector to the plenum that feeds air to the back(front of car) of the evaporator. Squeeze and remove that rubber duct connector. Look down in the plenum well. It will likely be filled with trash, leaves, gunk, and if the prev owner was a smoker, cig butts. Use a shop vac and get most of the gunk out of there. Use a flashlight, and look deep down into the plenum. You will see the back of the AC evap.
Sean has developed a cleaning method using some kind of evap coil cleaning fluid, and a brush to remove some of the embedded goo that sticks to the fins of the evap. This will have a dramatic affect on the air flow through the evap. Use his method, or locate the evap coil cleaning fluid and get it as clean as possible. I know when I did mine, I also used the shop vac to blow backward from the front duct to push the gunk back into the plenum where it could be cleaned out.
The water heater has a valve that is a 100% failure item. It will always blow hot air, even if you use bailing wire and wire the actuator arm closed. It's located below the air filter housing, at the rear of the engine bay. Follow the small heater hose backward, and eventually you will find the valve, with the vac line connected to the diaphram. Order the updated valve from Roger, replace that valve, and stop the hot water from circulating hot water heating your AC output.
If the system has held pressure, I would opine to remain with R-12 for now. Ask around, and find a shop that will just top it off. I'm sure everyone you talk to in the AC biz will tell you to convert it. Leave it as is for now. You can always convert to R-134 later, but if it has pressure I would just try to fill it and see what you see.
Remove the trim panel where the wiper arms are, and you will find the blower asm. It will have a rubber duct connector to the plenum that feeds air to the back(front of car) of the evaporator. Squeeze and remove that rubber duct connector. Look down in the plenum well. It will likely be filled with trash, leaves, gunk, and if the prev owner was a smoker, cig butts. Use a shop vac and get most of the gunk out of there. Use a flashlight, and look deep down into the plenum. You will see the back of the AC evap.
Sean has developed a cleaning method using some kind of evap coil cleaning fluid, and a brush to remove some of the embedded goo that sticks to the fins of the evap. This will have a dramatic affect on the air flow through the evap. Use his method, or locate the evap coil cleaning fluid and get it as clean as possible. I know when I did mine, I also used the shop vac to blow backward from the front duct to push the gunk back into the plenum where it could be cleaned out.
The water heater has a valve that is a 100% failure item. It will always blow hot air, even if you use bailing wire and wire the actuator arm closed. It's located below the air filter housing, at the rear of the engine bay. Follow the small heater hose backward, and eventually you will find the valve, with the vac line connected to the diaphram. Order the updated valve from Roger, replace that valve, and stop the hot water from circulating hot water heating your AC output.
If the system has held pressure, I would opine to remain with R-12 for now. Ask around, and find a shop that will just top it off. I'm sure everyone you talk to in the AC biz will tell you to convert it. Leave it as is for now. You can always convert to R-134 later, but if it has pressure I would just try to fill it and see what you see.