dr bob

First soft pass through this thread, and...

The PPI list is a subset of what all but the best 928's need to make into a safe and reliable driver. The rubber bits, suspension bits, and a few other critical pieces easily consume $5k -- just for the parts--. Your PPI was not comprehensive enough, IMHO.

Shark_gts

I agree the PPI was not nearly detailed enough. Any 928 I've seen, owned outside of expert hands for say 5+ years etc. seems to have a mountain of work to be done.

Below is an example of a list I did up for a reasonably well maintained 928, with new A+ paint job, that went into storage 5 years ago


ELEC O2 Sensor reading out of range.
ELEC Cracked Fog D side
ELEC D-side window - wire broken
ELEC HVAC fan NOP/intermittent
ELEC D side Seat NOP/intermittent
ELEC Climate **** loose (temp)
ELEC [P] and [D] indicators are out
ELEC Dash cluster lighting way too dim - Needs LED upgrade
ELEC New Fuel pump and Fuel Filter, Drain tank
ELEC New Battery
ELEC Fuses have film of corrosion, consider remove/clean/reinsert
ELEC Fan - engine cooling, pass side going out. Monitor.
ELEC Wrong wattage bulbs in tails
ELEC Check mirrors
MECH Raise rear ride height
MECH Trans service and diff service suggested
MECH Drain coolant from Rad, replace, add some sealant
MECH Detail/clean up engine bay, lube all points
MECH Adjust cables (tighten)
MECH Brake fluid v/old
MECH Wiper washer lid
MECH D side wiper nozzle NOP
MECH Air pump filter old
MECH Valve cover gasket - Pside
MECH Check A/C system
MECH Vacuum system check: Flappy actuator does work, see below
INT Dye-up steering wheel and assorted parts
INT Clean glass (interior surfaces)
INT Dash & Pod cracked
INT Console brackets broken
INT Sensor cap cracked
INT Leather 1/4's are pulled up
INT Sunroof liner not sitting right
INT Sunroof drain tubes - check and purge
INT Door panels are twisted/warped, clips are broken
INT Driver seat bolster
INT Console overlays
INT Shift plate, shifter
INT Clock not stock, operating?
INT Lube seat tracks
INT Needs cleaning, vacuum and debris removal (hatch area etc.)
INT Lube rear seats
INT Amp cover bolts rusted
INT Re-glue backings and/or replace rotted foam backings eg spare tire cover
INT Missing tools from kit, air compressor, jack?

BODY Clean doors, door jambs, hatch jamb, underspoiler
BODY Clay bar and polish, wax
BODY Wipers - Front and rear should be done too.
BODY D - side lock
BODY Lube All points
BODY Rear latch striker liner
BODY * Rear hatch seal folded over - add weatherstripping
BODY Lube all seals - silicone
BODY Refinish rear spoiler
BODY Engine hood strut (replaced one, second maybe suspect)
BODY Refinish strut brace
BODY Hood crest epoxied on, fell off.
BODY Lube all seals - *hatch seal has been supported, monitor for leaking
MISC Shop Supplies - LPS, Electrical, paints, clay, wax, polish etc,
MISC Jerry Can of gas
MISC Console Bracket Kit
MISC Temp sensor cover
MISC Wheels and tires

Hilton

I've driven 5-spd 928's in rush hour traffic for the better part of a decade, and still wouldn't consider buying an auto 928 for commuting.

As much as people who own auto's will tell you they prefer the auto, its their preference they're peddling, or they're still trying to convince themselves they didn't buy the wrong car

I know I like manuals.. that doesn't mean the 5-spd is better, it just means I like them more than auto

If you know you want a stick, don't buy an auto.. you'll just end up buying another 928 and paying another dose of catch-up maintenance all over again in the future.

buccicone

Then there's this basket case 1985 5 speed for $10K: https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/d...8320/overview/

buccicone

Sorry link not working. Try this.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/d...8320/overview/

buccicone

Cars.com Dayton Ohio area anyhow.

twinreds

I pulled the trigger on it. I dropped it at Munk's right after I had it delivered. I hope I don't regret. Thank you for all your input!!!
Photos are earlier on this thread...

SMTCapeCod

You have a positive referral for the shop, and I'm sure some others would echo that. STill my advice would be to forego an open-checkbook approach.
Others would/will disagree.
You might also look up Dave Chamberlain's guide to a 928 PPI, it will be a good cross reference to compare with the shop's assessment and recommendations/statement of needs. It is probably in the thread pinned to the top of the forum for new owners. The approach would likely yield different results & recommendations than post 47.

fiatrn

The 86.5 manual is a pretty great car. Stupid fast, comfortable, entertaining. They are damn complex machines compared to my '70s Fiats, and the HVAC system can be bewildering - complexity for the sake of complexity. I just took a 2700 mile road trip in mine, and it was a joy. I find the car very sensitive to tire pressures, so make sure you set it as Porsche says 36F, 44R. In the photos the car looks gorgeous - hopefully the mechanicals will bear out the looks and you'll have a lovely grand tourer added to your collection!

Raffey1

I think your new car looks lovely- congratulations and best of luck on getting her back on the road in great shape. Your red twins will make beautiful bookends for her.

2002M3Drew

I like the wheels on your car. Normally I only like the stock phone dials or flat forged discs on these cars, but these are really nice!

WyattsRide

No matter what others say, you have to go with what YOU feel and what YOU like. Either way it's YOU that has to deal with what you get. That's a great looking car and it's a manual. I hope everything works out good for you. Have fun with it and keep us updated! Congratulations!!

STRIKEMASTER

Welcome to the 'Tank'!! My '83 Euro 5-speed is my first and only Porsche and I do all the work on it myself. Mr Merlin was living in Colorado when I got mine so I did a 'PPI' myself. Results: BAD STUFf-- Steering rack leaks a little and needs new tie rod boots; driver's side shock won't adjust; parking brake shoes need replacement; electric sunroof doesn't work (but doesn't leak); K-Jet F.I. system needs cleaning ( the car sat on the dealer's lot for 5 years that I know of), dry rotted tires, no radio and the cigarette lighters and rear wiper don't work. 2nd gear syncro is bad. Paint is a little weathered from being outside for who knows how long.--the GOOD STUFF: interior is in good shape (90%) It fired up and ran OK. drives and brakes straight, no obvious body damage, no oil, coolant or other fluid leaks (except the steering rack). No exhaust leaks.---AND:--"original matching factory numbers", as far as I can tell.(I don't know if that's good or bad.) I did over 10 months 'Due Dilligence' before I jumped on it. Black Tie Classic Autos wanted $5900 for it and I drove it home for $3500 cash. It's nice to take a used car dealer to the cleaners for a change. So far I've put another $3k in parts into it: NEW battery, hoses and belts, starter, steering rack, water pump, cam, oil, and timing gears and seals, Porken tensioner, Cam drive belt and motor mounts. The only work I've paid to have done (so far) is taking the front springs/shocks apart. I paid $134 at NTB to have that done. While I had the shocks off I took a look at my front disks and they are shot: 29.54mm thick- WSM specs say 30.2mm is replacement time, so add $230 for new disks. I'm just a 'shade tree' mechanic but I did keep 2 '73 Mazda RX-3s and a '79 RX-7 alive all on my own. ( Mazda mechs don't know $h!t about Rotary engines. For example: NEVER, EVER, EVER, put synthetic oil in a rotary engine.) In my experience, such as it is, 928 engines are 'involved' but not all that complicated. Changing out a failed part may only take an hour, BUT, you spend 2 hours removing bits and parts to get to the part that failed. I had a water pump problem last year. WP shaft seal failure--dumped all the coolant out on the parking lot but didn't dig into the block. I had to take the whole front of the engine apart to change out the WP. 4 hours to strip off the front of the engine, 1 hour to replace the pump, and 4 more hours to put it back together......Actually it took me four 5 hour days to do the job because: My first time at it, I only broke off 1 water pump bolt and had to borrow a welder to weld a nut on the broken bolt and remove it. Also, seeing as I had it all apart, I changed out my worn cam gears, oil pump gear and timing gear and did all the seals. I also installed a Porken tensioner and new cam belt. With any luck I won't have to do that again for at least another 5 years. I always keep in mind that mine is 34 years old. They don't make 'em like this anymore and NEVER will. So it falls into one of 3 categories: #1 broken, #2 Under repair, or #3 running but getting ready for something else to break. Right now it's in class 2/3--running but needs more work, new front disks. There's NO WAY I could afford this magnificent piece of Teutonic over-engineering if I had to pay someone else to work on it. Also,Lest I be remiss, I'd like to thank, right now, all the "Pros from Dover' on Rennlist, who have helped me in more ways than I can count. One good thing about my '83 euro---NO COMPUTER--K-jet hydro-mechanical fuel injection. It's not my first K-jet car, that was a '73 Renault R-17 Gordini that I rescued from a junkyard, worked up and sold on. I didn't buy my 928 to be a 'show car', altho I did take it to 4 car shows the first year I had it and won trophies twice in 'Survivor Class'. I agree with Dr. Porsche.."I designed my cars to be driven NOT polished!" I take a kind of 'left handed pride' that I had "the rattiest" 928 at this year's FRENZY. Mine is a "50/50" car; at 50 feet and 50 MPH it looks great. I'll just keep changing out the mechanicals as they fail and keep "ZoomHilda" alive. I've promised to leave it to my youngest nephew, but he'll have to wait 30 years for it. LOL Have NO fear! Get some tools and the WSM and have at it.