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Hey all,
Sanity Check Request, and a bit of history:
- Drove the car about 200 miles. Parked over night, wouldn't start. Battery seemed a bit low, put it on the battery tender and a few hours later started right up and drove the 200 miles back home.
- Filled up tank, and have ~30 miles driven on it.
- After a stop, car wouldn't start again. Swapped FP Relay and started right up.
- Picked up my daughter from school yesterday, went to drive home, and car flat out died 4 times. Took some cranks to start up the first 3 times, but couldn't get it to start the 4th time. My 12YO gave her a little push (neighbors loved that I was putting her to work) and was able to coast downhill to my garage.
- Woke up this morning to the garage smelling like fuel. Inspected around the car, and found some gas under the tank.
I've disconnected the battery and am considering putting her into early hibernation for the winter, but have a few questions:
1. Do you see any possible connection to the non-start & stalling with the fuel leak?
2. If I do decide to put it hibernation, how should I handle getting fuel treatment into the system? I'm reticent to start her up now given the leak, so am thinking I button up whatever is causing the issue, return the fuel to the tank (after the siphoning), drive her a bit, then put her back up.
3. Anything else jump out as "That happened to me, and I....."?
I've read a number of posts on the process of removing/inspecting the tank/FP/hoses, so I think I'm good there.
Hey Ryan, I'm late to the party, did you find the source if the leak yet?
I'll probably just be here for moral support, rather then actual help unfortunately.
The no start and stall sound like either fuel delivery or electrical. The leak may be a red herring like you suspect.
I'm trying to remember your last project, assuming it was the interior...is it possible the ignition switch going or compromised when the pod went back on?
Computer connection?
I'm reaching on the leak, because it sounds like a return line connection. I had a fuel pump issue once and they really can be maddening because the delivery problem can be subtle and sporadic...before they totally fail.
With you in spirit, I'd say be careful with the leak but I know you will be.
I am a noob, but my car was performing similarly, smelt gas in garage and had a small leak that APPEARED to be from fuel tank, it was actually from R/R tyre well, turned out to be a knackered FUEL ACCUMULATOR, ( diaphragm- perforated) I have just received a new one from Roger, not in car yet, but I assume this will help with hot starts, as it will "hold" the fuel pressure, where before it would slowly leak out, hence I assume the fuel pump has to "prime" the system again.
The gurus will let you know, but my 02c.
Seems that I may very well have two problems here. Was doing some work on my radiator fan, and just for kicks I checked the grounds at the front bumper. The PS bolt holding them was almost out, so I'm suspecting the ground was losing good connectivity thereby causing the random non-start. Tightened it up and we'll see what happens.
Went to the back of the car after getting her on the liftbars. Fuel was still dripping onto the floor, but at a very slow rate.
Started inspection in the RR wheel well, and all appeared to be dry. The vertical part of the tank appears offcolored, but doesn't appear to be fuel.
Went to take off the hose cover leading up to the rear wheel, and got a big splash of gas on me and the floor. It was caught at the bottom of the cover.
Removed the FP and FF cover, and there appears to be fuel from the FP/FF and back. Checked upward on the tank, and there didn't appear to be any wet spots.
A couple of observances:
1. The FP and the FF both weren't weren't secured to the tank harness. The clamp over the FF isn't connected, and two of the bolts securing the FP are missing. Not sure if the extra movement would cause a leak, but I presume it's not good for them.
2. The fuel appeared to be wettest on the right side of the FP/FF, and I didn't see any seepage from the strainer port.
It may very well be something upstream in the tubing, could be the accumulator, could be the tank or could be something at the FP/FF, but regardless - tank is coming down.
Will update once it's down, unless someone tells me I'm missing something obvious.
You will need the back end pretty high to get the tank out. Check the short hose from the return pipe into the tank, as its really only accessible with the tank out, and they are not very well fitted to the pipe - mine pulled off by hand. Be careful removing the in tank filter - overdoing this can strip the threaded insert loose.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
That hose from the fuel filter to the hard line doesn't look like the original. That's a high pressure line and I wouldn't like to use hose clamps as it appears yours have.
Check this hose for leaks.
Yes, doesnt seem to be a factory hose? Also filter doesnt seem to be clamped in place? Or have you removed it? And the wiring on the pump is not original.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
Be careful when disconnecting the wires to the fuel pump. If the stud turns the wire can break off inside the pump.
Please don't ask how I know this.
I'm guessing you know by doing a lot of searches out on RL?
Originally Posted by jpitman2
Check the short hose from the return pipe into the tank, as its really only accessible with the tank out, and they are not very well fitted to the pipe - mine pulled off by hand. Be careful removing the in tank filter - overdoing this can strip the threaded insert loose.
I was doing some pre-search in anticipation of dropping the tank, and saw many mentions of the insert getting stripped. Definitely on my list of things to keep in mind.
Originally Posted by SwedeInSiam
That hose from the fuel filter to the hard line doesn't look like the original. That's a high pressure line and I wouldn't like to use hose clamps as it appears yours have.
Check this hose for leaks.
Thanks. I would not have caught that myself, as I thought it was original.
Looking at the PET, I believe you are referring to part 46, as part 41 is for -79 (I've got an 82). If so, the associated clamp (part 35) does appear to be consistent with whats on there now. Am I missing something?
Originally Posted by jpitman2
Also filter doesn't seem to be clamped in place? Or have you removed it?
Agreed. That was nothing that I did, and was that way upon taking the cover off.
Originally Posted by jpitman2
And the wiring on the pump is not original.
+928. Those damn yellow splices were all over the place. I've been cleaning them up as I go along, so one more added to the list.
Originally Posted by linderpat
yikes - an exploding bomb waiting to happen - good catch.
Always an adventure peeling things back on this car.
Thanks. I would not have caught that myself, as I thought it was original.
Looking at the PET, I believe you are referring to part 46, as part 41 is for -79 (I've got an 82). If so, the associated clamp (part 35) does appear to be consistent with whats on there now. Am I missing something?
No, part 19 92835605301. The hose from the fuel filter to the hard line.
You will need the back end pretty high to get the tank out. Check the short hose from the return pipe into the tank, as its really only accessible with the tank out, and they are not very well fitted to the pipe - mine pulled off by hand. Be careful removing the in tank filter - overdoing this can strip the threaded insert loose.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
How far off the ground will you need to raise the car if you do pull the tank?
Thanks
Dan -
You ask a question I don't know, and I might yet find out, but it got me thinking a bit more:
Is there any compelling reason why I should drop at the tank at this point? Assuming that the new line from FF to hard line and clamping down fixes things, is there anything else I should do?
Its been a while since I did my tank, so height is not in recent memory. Lets just say its higher than I would normally be comfortable with - hanging wheels several inches clear of the ground. The tank top has some rubber foam cushion strips on top where it is held against the body - plan to get something to replace these. You will probably need a couple of socket extensions end to end to reach the cradle bolts. Watch out for corrosion of the moulded in mounting bracket at the filler neck. If you havent already pulled the gauge head out, and dont have pliers big enough the grip the black plastic nut, I used two big screwdrivers crossed over. Get a new gasket for the gauge head also. When replacing the big black nut, warm it up a bit, lube lightly.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
09-17-2016, 12:29 PM
Non-Start, then stall, then tank fuel leak
