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Currently wrestling with the banjo bolt on the pump end. How do you get a tool on that thing?! I've dropped the alternator but those oil lines to the cooler are in the way. Maybe a long flex head ratcheting gear wrench? Of course my set tops out at 17mm, and the 19mm stubby I have doesn't seem to work.
I use a crow's foot wrench on end of handle for the pump banjos, after dropping alternator as you have. I've never understood how some people claim to manage this without dropping the alternator!
I ended up pulling the pump off the mounting as well. I didn't have a problem getting the line off the pump in place but I did have a problem getting it back on again when I was installing the new line. Pulling the pump gives you a bit more room and maneuverability.
OK, just...no. I don't see how it is physically possible to get any of these tools at the right angle to engage that bolt. Even the flex-head gear wrench can't twist itself to do this. I can't even imagine how to get a crow's foot onto it.
I wonder if my collapsed motor mounts are causing a clearance issue? I read about that in previous threads, but it seemed to be a factor for pulling the line out, I haven't even got to that point yet.
Which model Jeff? I dont recall sny particular difficulty with the pump bolts once alternator out the way in either of S4s I've owned, though I'm pretty sure I needed crow's foot to fit in the space.
As Mike has said, you also have option of taking pump off the "cassette".
You will have possible issue with clearance for line as it runs along crossmember if mounts are collapsed, but won't have any bearing on access to pump bolts.
I have an '84 and removed the PS reservoir first in order to gain better access to come from the top. Then used a crows foot. Must be different in the 16V cars because I did not have to drop the alternator. Came off with no fuss.
From the top...so I had not considered that, beyond peering down there and deciding I couldn't see it. But maybe with the reservoir out of the way...hmmm. I retreated for the evening to cook dinner, but I'll take another look tomorrow morning...
I use a crow's foot wrench on end of handle for the pump banjos, after dropping alternator as you have. I've never understood how some people claim to manage this without dropping the alternator!
Dwayne didn't have a write-up about this specifically, but he did have one about replacing the reservoir and return hose, and his pictures show a LOT more clearance between the oil cooler lines and the banjo bolt in question here than I've got. Not sure if that's typical of S4+, or I'm just lucky somehow...
This is what I'm talking about...pardon the grime everywhere...this is AFTER I took care of a bunch of leaks! (Admittedly those were on the front of the motor)
I can't even really see the head of the banjo bolt in question...I can feel it, but haven't been able to get a tool to conform to the area enough to get it on there, much less turn it.
When I did it on my S4 I think I got it from underneath using an open ended spanner. Getting the new line back on is harder because you need to line up the new pressure line hold two crush washers in place and then get the banjo bolt started. I threaded my pump and ended up having to get a used replacement. With the pump off the cassette it was easier.
09-04-2016, 05:36 PM
*&^%! power steering line
