GlassCake

So awhile ago I rebuilt the slave cylinder for the clutch. Just last night driving on the freeway I went to press in the clutch and it traveled more than half way till it finally moved the clutch and disengaged. When i downshifted and reengaged the clutch it was stuck almost to the floor.

After I lifted up the clutch pedal it then continued to work just fine. Full range of motion. I also noticed that if I were to accelerate to around 3000-5000 in seccond or third I would hear a deep (bad sounding) growl and I could feel very strong feed back in the clutch pedal.

So today I assuming it was an air bubble in the slave cylinder I use the breaks to circulate fluid to the slave cylinder. The fluid level adventully went down when the pedal was down and up when the pedal was coming up.

Tonight driving again it happened same as last night. But when it got to stop and go the car would rumble and shake. But not every time.....



Wg .n
Two side notes:

Congrats for reading it all here's a life tip, when bleeding your breaks you can get a small check valve for aquariums or just general use off Amazon to make it a one person job.

What size/thread are the zerts or bleed valves for the breaks..... I'd like to bleed all 4 but the Po stripped them apparently

Crumpler

Check the push rod on your slave and make sure it is seated correctly in the cup on the clutch, but I would assume there is still an air bubble in your clutch line.
Clutch hydraulics are essentially independent of your brake hydraulics unfortunately, due to the set up, the only communication being the famous blue hose...
You can bleed your brakes all day and not resolve it. See threads for bleeding clutch. Various methods, all cumbersome.
Cheers

GlassCake

Is there a right up or is it blatantly obvious for seeing how the cup is seated?

Also I used the breaks to push fluid into the slave cylinder to try to bleed the clutch system. I'll read the right up though I am rusty

Mrmerlin

first a few things to understand ,
your hydraulic system is old and when you repair one part,
it will expose the other parts that then become the weak link.

So for continued performance,
I would suggest that you replace the whole hydraulic system.
This means no rebuilt parts only fresh parts will do.
make sure to modify the MC to the longer stroke version if you have the twin disc clutch.
This means removing about 4.5 MM from the tip of the piston look for the write ups.

Make sure to replace the flex line and hard line with the Greg Brown flex line,
this goes from the sway bar mount to the slave.

To bleed the system its easy,
gravity bleed the slave,
then when the fluid is clear,
push the slave pushrod into the bore and hold it for 10 seconds,
then let it come out repeat this 3 times then install the slave.

Drop the clutch and replace the parts as necessary,
NOTE for the TOB you may be able to drill a small hole into the bearing shield,
and use a zerk fitting with the hypo needle screwed onto it to inject grease into the TOB .

NOTE inspect the torque tube for bearing migration ,
see if the front or rear bearing is touching the front clamp or rear input clamps

Replace the blue/ black feed hose to the reservoir
Use ATE super gold brake fluid.

Inspect the clevis pin and yoke on the MC to pedal connection,
replace these if they are worn.

Inspect and replace the release arm bushing if its tan or brown.

Verify you have the correct TOB and release arm combo.

If you follow these instructions your refreshed clutch should be good for another 10 years or more,
if you dont you will be spending more time in the short future reworking your previous efforts.

Crumpler

Hey GC, so take everything Stan said as gospel.
In regards to the cup, it should be visible through the round port on your bellhousing. Based on clutch wear, you should at least be able to feel it properly seated.
There are many places where air can be trapped in the clutch system, uunfortunately, and that is much more likely.
Hang in there it's usually just a matter of perseverance.

GlassCake

Re bled the clutch with the break bleed valve method. Also parked on a slope and jacked the front end up just to help some bubbles. There were two big bubbles still left from the last time and the clutch works great now!

But now that I've been paying more attention to it I think the TOB or pilot bearing is going back due to some chirping and some feed back in the pedal. Thanks for the advice everyone