Avar928

Early '86 US Auto with 168,000mi. Top end refresh done, all fuel and vacuum lines in the engine, rebuilt MAF, 3yr old timing belt and water pump plus all new gears, new fuel injectors.

I was planning on:

- Master Brake Cylinder
- Oil pan gasket
- Oil pan stud kit
- Rebuilt steering rack
- motor mounts
- transmission mounts?

And of course, cleaning cleaning cleaning...

Anything else?

Ducman82

cooler lines? rad hoses?

GlenL

Every single hose on the engine and in the engine bay that hasn't been replaced in the last 5 years: coolant lines, oil lines and fuel lines.

Avar928

I've read many a review about it but just for more validation, 928Intl's aluminum radiator is a pretty safe bet to get?

Ducman82

i installed it and love it. great fit and excellent quality .

GlenL

The CSF-made radiator is good. I've got one. There's also another all-aluminum radiator on the market that's nicer but more expensive. The OEM/Porsche radiators are exorbitantly priced.

Is the one you have leaking or something?

worf928

Torque converter bearings
Repack CVs with fresh grease
Rear wheel bearings
Torque tube bearings
(Basically, replace all sealed bearings. Never easier than with the drivetrain on the floor.)

Transaxle mounts only if they are getting hard or dry-rotting. They don't get baked to death or see the torque that the motor mounts do. And they are stupid expensive.

Avar928

No leaks but likely has to be cleaned inside and out. An acid clean inside makes me weary. Just thinking about replacing it altogether. I'm not seeing much of a temp differential between the lower and upper rad hoses, 20F I believe should be the norm. Spirited driving and hot days, it's more like 10F or less. Maybe the t-stat? I have to check its operation even though it's new.

Avar928

I've read the CV repacking procedure several times. Kits compared to new CVs are super cheap just wondering first hand from people who do it how "good" of a job it is. I'm handy with instructions but no means an auto pro. (Also need a press for that I believe)

AO

This!

Avar928

What's the consensus on replacement.upgraded alternator? Reading all the threads and I can't discern what to get best.

worf928

Yes, having a small press makes the job much easier. You might be able to do it with a big gear puller. I've never tried it without a press so I can't comment on 'doability' without. It's a messy job no matter what.

If your CVs have never been repacked and they've got 100k+ miles on them then I might just get rebuilts from 928 International. I might cut off the old boots, clean, and then look for indications of wear on the ***** and races. Or not.

It all depends upon the intersection of your available time, wallet thickness and the goal(s) you are attempting to achieve.

If cost is an issue then buy a $100 press from Northern Tool / Harbor Freight and repack.

If your available time is an issue then DIY may not be optimal.

If you are trying to achieve an 'almost-new road feel' from an NVH perspective then rebuilts are required for high-mileage CVs.

The main thing is that if the grease in the CVs is original it isn't really grease anymore. The anti-wear additives have reacted with the base grease and are gone. This is true for all things 'sealed with grease' where the grease is now pushing into, or past 20 years of age.