Car audio Presets backup Battery Circuit?
07-24-2016, 12:18 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Car audio Presets backup Battery Circuit?
I'm not referring to the 9v battery setups that you can plug into your cigarette lighter to save audio channel and preset settings while you change your battery.
I'm asking if anyone has developed a backup battery system, that allows us to keep our audio system presets during the instances in which we need to disconnect the battery ground quick-release to do some kind of (frequent) periodic maintenance.
At 30 car-years old, there's always room for some kind of electrical refresh and I'd like to avoid resetting all the audio system presets because I disconnected the battery ground (again).
Has anyone (Alan?) developed backup battery system specifically for protecting audio presets?
I'm asking if anyone has developed a backup battery system, that allows us to keep our audio system presets during the instances in which we need to disconnect the battery ground quick-release to do some kind of (frequent) periodic maintenance.
At 30 car-years old, there's always room for some kind of electrical refresh and I'd like to avoid resetting all the audio system presets because I disconnected the battery ground (again).
Has anyone (Alan?) developed backup battery system specifically for protecting audio presets?
07-24-2016, 06:47 PM
#2
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I did create a backup battery system - but not for that. It is horrendously complex and actually doesn't include the audio on the backup side (it does include the LH and the clock and the alarm for similar reasons...) Reason for that - my radio/audio remembers things even if it loses power. Replacing the audio system is likely cheaper than all the work & expense that you need to create a good backup system. A poor primary backup system actually risks making your vehicle much less reliable.
My reason to do this was primarily the reliability issues with primary batteries in the heat of Phoenix - so it's mainly a backup starting battery to avoid me being stranded. Needless to say my current battery is now lasting much better now that it can't strand me anywhere. Previously I got an average of ~2.5 years life - this one is now 5 years old.
It would probably be possible to create a much simpler audio only backup system with a much smaller battery - but it would depend on your system.
I do have a 0.5F decoupling capacitor for my audio fed via a huge diode - and it will keep the memory alive for alive for many hours as long as you don't try to turn anything on, that is also a complex install - space is very tight (at least where I put it). See below
Alan
My reason to do this was primarily the reliability issues with primary batteries in the heat of Phoenix - so it's mainly a backup starting battery to avoid me being stranded. Needless to say my current battery is now lasting much better now that it can't strand me anywhere. Previously I got an average of ~2.5 years life - this one is now 5 years old.
It would probably be possible to create a much simpler audio only backup system with a much smaller battery - but it would depend on your system.
I do have a 0.5F decoupling capacitor for my audio fed via a huge diode - and it will keep the memory alive for alive for many hours as long as you don't try to turn anything on, that is also a complex install - space is very tight (at least where I put it). See below
Alan
07-25-2016, 10:24 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I did create a backup battery system - but not for that. It is horrendously complex and actually doesn't include the audio on the backup side (it does include the LH and the clock and the alarm for similar reasons...) Reason for that - my radio/audio remembers things even if it loses power. Replacing the audio system is likely cheaper than all the work & expense that you need to create a good backup system. A poor primary backup system actually risks making your vehicle much less reliable.
My reason to do this was primarily the reliability issues with primary batteries in the heat of Phoenix - so it's mainly a backup starting battery to avoid me being stranded. Needless to say my current battery is now lasting much better now that it can't strand me anywhere. Previously I got an average of ~2.5 years life - this one is now 5 years old.
It would probably be possible to create a much simpler audio only backup system with a much smaller battery - but it would depend on your system.
I do have a 0.5F decoupling capacitor for my audio fed via a huge diode - and it will keep the memory alive for alive for many hours as long as you don't try to turn anything on, that is also a complex install - space is very tight (at least where I put it). See below
Alan
My reason to do this was primarily the reliability issues with primary batteries in the heat of Phoenix - so it's mainly a backup starting battery to avoid me being stranded. Needless to say my current battery is now lasting much better now that it can't strand me anywhere. Previously I got an average of ~2.5 years life - this one is now 5 years old.
It would probably be possible to create a much simpler audio only backup system with a much smaller battery - but it would depend on your system.
I do have a 0.5F decoupling capacitor for my audio fed via a huge diode - and it will keep the memory alive for alive for many hours as long as you don't try to turn anything on, that is also a complex install - space is very tight (at least where I put it). See below
Alan
1) Is it maybe realistic and simple to provide electrical system (non-starting) backup power specifically for the audio head through an audio-only, in-line 1-2-both switch, plus a rechargeable 12V battery pack? Or (as you mentioned) just buy a replacement. This is a pretty good Alpine head, even for today. Well, a stupidly simple, possibly simple and stupid *manually* actuated switch possibility is below. The rechargeable battery pack itself (for safety reasons) is usually disconnected until needed. Before disconnecting the battery negative cable quick release, plug in the battery pack and throw the SPST switch. Then disconnect the battery neg cable. Only the audio head has battery backup now since the battery pack is only in line with the audio head.
2) on a different note: is there a switch-fuse that could be plugged in place of the interior light fuse? I'm concerned about the number of CE panel fuse socket insertion cycles when pulling that fuse in and out while I'm doing interior work (is this actually a CE panel problem?). So, the switch-fuse would plug in place of the interior light fuse and include *both* a built-in protection fuse plus a small make-break switch that I could throw instead of repeatedly pulling out the lighting fuse.
Thanks!
Last edited by mj1pate; 07-25-2016 at 11:02 AM.
07-30-2016, 05:35 PM
#5
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Simple options for interior lights:
Get an add a fuse block like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/littelf...m_campaign=pla
1) Ignore the new fuse slot and simply plug in/out of the new fuse socket - if it gets damaged get a new one.
2) Leave the primary fuse empty & install the interior light fuse in the add on slot - then wire a switch to the add-on lead and the other side of the switch back to the fuse output connection (bottom) - using a 0.25" male quick disconnect. Now you have fused interior light with an on/off switch.
Alternatively add your battery back-up and a primary battery disconnect switch in the battery ground line (good for all electrical work on the car).
For the backup battery use a fused battery connection and a big diode feeding your backup battery and the head unit. No need for a switch. It will charge while the car is running, you may have much shorter run time with the car off - but maybe you don't care about that?
My capacitor shown is also fed by a massive dual 200A diode - similar idea. Ideally you could also have a relay connect when the ignition is on to bypass the diode for better charging.
Alan
Get an add a fuse block like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/littelf...m_campaign=pla
1) Ignore the new fuse slot and simply plug in/out of the new fuse socket - if it gets damaged get a new one.
2) Leave the primary fuse empty & install the interior light fuse in the add on slot - then wire a switch to the add-on lead and the other side of the switch back to the fuse output connection (bottom) - using a 0.25" male quick disconnect. Now you have fused interior light with an on/off switch.
Alternatively add your battery back-up and a primary battery disconnect switch in the battery ground line (good for all electrical work on the car).
For the backup battery use a fused battery connection and a big diode feeding your backup battery and the head unit. No need for a switch. It will charge while the car is running, you may have much shorter run time with the car off - but maybe you don't care about that?
My capacitor shown is also fed by a massive dual 200A diode - similar idea. Ideally you could also have a relay connect when the ignition is on to bypass the diode for better charging.
Alan
07-30-2016, 05:44 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I did create a backup battery system - but not for that. It is horrendously complex and actually doesn't include the audio on the backup side (it does include the LH and the clock and the alarm for similar reasons...) Reason for that - my radio/audio remembers things even if it loses power. Replacing the audio system is likely cheaper than all the work & expense that you need to create a good backup system. A poor primary backup system actually risks making your vehicle much less reliable.
My reason to do this was primarily the reliability issues with primary batteries in the heat of Phoenix - so it's mainly a backup starting battery to avoid me being stranded. Needless to say my current battery is now lasting much better now that it can't strand me anywhere. Previously I got an average of ~2.5 years life - this one is now 5 years old.
It would probably be possible to create a much simpler audio only backup system with a much smaller battery - but it would depend on your system.
I do have a 0.5F decoupling capacitor for my audio fed via a huge diode - and it will keep the memory alive for alive for many hours as long as you don't try to turn anything on, that is also a complex install - space is very tight (at least where I put it). See below
Alan
My reason to do this was primarily the reliability issues with primary batteries in the heat of Phoenix - so it's mainly a backup starting battery to avoid me being stranded. Needless to say my current battery is now lasting much better now that it can't strand me anywhere. Previously I got an average of ~2.5 years life - this one is now 5 years old.
It would probably be possible to create a much simpler audio only backup system with a much smaller battery - but it would depend on your system.
I do have a 0.5F decoupling capacitor for my audio fed via a huge diode - and it will keep the memory alive for alive for many hours as long as you don't try to turn anything on, that is also a complex install - space is very tight (at least where I put it). See below
Alan
07-30-2016, 08:59 PM
#7
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
BTW even for this usage the diode is a big thing with a heat sink. Specs are impressive 400A continuous and 1600A instantaneous for the pair. The capacitor initial charge current is huge if not controlled - I actually now have an isolation switch and precharge circuit for it - before I added that I managed to destroy an ATX 50A fuse & fuse-holder charging it.
Alan