Clutch Master Cylinder is kicking my A$$
05-30-2016, 06:18 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clutch Master Cylinder is kicking my A$$
87 S4
I am in awe of those that have done this before me. Without a doubt it is the most difficult task I have ever undertaken on my cars.
I read all the relevant threads by MrMerlin, Sharkskin and Hacker-Pschorr.
I am trying to use the string method and MrMerlin's complete assembly version. I made sure to match the angle of the brake line exiting the clutch master cylinder.
No matter what I do the clutch master will not get into the depression that has the holes for the clutch master mounting holes.
I unbolted the brake booster to get more room but with the metal pipe it will not get into position - It is like I am fighting the metal pipe routing. Should I disconnect the brake booster from the brake pedal?
Thanks...
I am in awe of those that have done this before me. Without a doubt it is the most difficult task I have ever undertaken on my cars.
I read all the relevant threads by MrMerlin, Sharkskin and Hacker-Pschorr.
I am trying to use the string method and MrMerlin's complete assembly version. I made sure to match the angle of the brake line exiting the clutch master cylinder.
No matter what I do the clutch master will not get into the depression that has the holes for the clutch master mounting holes.
I unbolted the brake booster to get more room but with the metal pipe it will not get into position - It is like I am fighting the metal pipe routing. Should I disconnect the brake booster from the brake pedal?
Thanks...
05-30-2016, 06:46 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Kevin,
Did the old clutch MC come out? If so, the new one will go in...
On our GT the trick is this: Brake booster loosened but not removed, hardline connection loose, blue hose fitted but the fitting swiveled around-- facing the pass-side rear if my fuzzy recollection is correct. I work from the top, Sue inside, I get it close and she maneuvers the proboscis through the hole with a finger-tip while I gently push and wiggle from the top side. Kinky, but works. Then tighten the hard-line and turn the blue-hose fitting to face the right direction.
Someone will be here shortly to tell you to cut holes in the car, do not under any circumstance do that. Karma is a bitch.
Did the old clutch MC come out? If so, the new one will go in...
On our GT the trick is this: Brake booster loosened but not removed, hardline connection loose, blue hose fitted but the fitting swiveled around-- facing the pass-side rear if my fuzzy recollection is correct. I work from the top, Sue inside, I get it close and she maneuvers the proboscis through the hole with a finger-tip while I gently push and wiggle from the top side. Kinky, but works. Then tighten the hard-line and turn the blue-hose fitting to face the right direction.
Someone will be here shortly to tell you to cut holes in the car, do not under any circumstance do that. Karma is a bitch.
05-30-2016, 09:26 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Success - It is bolted in and so is the brake booster.
I'll finish it tomorrow.
I'll finish it tomorrow.
05-31-2016, 12:49 AM
#4
I get it close and she maneuvers the proboscis through the hole with a finger-tip while I gently push and wiggle from the top side. Kinky, but works. Then tighten
05-31-2016, 02:40 AM
#5
Rennlist
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I know I don't have or run a "normal" shop, where success is measured in how much money I make on every job. As a matter of fact, I don't think I ever cared about how fast any given job could be done.....that whole bunch"flat rate" thing is so contrary to perfection.
So, I remove the brake master and the booster...whenever I need to replace the clutch master and the hose.
These are now old cars....
I look at this job as the opportunity to check the master for leaks out of the rear seal and into the booster, replace the rubber seals for the reservoir, clean the reservoir, replace every drop of old fluid, and bleed both the brake and clutch system.
Just makes more sense, to me.
So, I remove the brake master and the booster...whenever I need to replace the clutch master and the hose.
These are now old cars....
I look at this job as the opportunity to check the master for leaks out of the rear seal and into the booster, replace the rubber seals for the reservoir, clean the reservoir, replace every drop of old fluid, and bleed both the brake and clutch system.
Just makes more sense, to me.
06-04-2016, 07:33 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
I know I don't have or run a "normal" shop, where success is measured in how much money I make on every job. As a matter of fact, I don't think I ever cared about how fast any given job could be done.....that whole bunch"flat rate" thing is so contrary to perfection.
So, I remove the brake master and the booster...whenever I need to replace the clutch master and the hose.
These are now old cars....
I look at this job as the opportunity to check the master for leaks out of the rear seal and into the booster, replace the rubber seals for the reservoir, clean the reservoir, replace every drop of old fluid, and bleed both the brake and clutch system.
Just makes more sense, to me.
So, I remove the brake master and the booster...whenever I need to replace the clutch master and the hose.
These are now old cars....
I look at this job as the opportunity to check the master for leaks out of the rear seal and into the booster, replace the rubber seals for the reservoir, clean the reservoir, replace every drop of old fluid, and bleed both the brake and clutch system.
Just makes more sense, to me.
06-04-2016, 06:29 PM
#7
Team Owner
FWIW disturbing old reservoir grommet seals in a rusted master cylinder will usually result in a leak BTDT.
Best bet fit a new brake MC and use DC 111 on the grommets where they seal against the MC inlet,
this will prevent water from corroding the new MC inlet bores,
yes it may take a few washes and rain storms to cause the rust,
BUT it will happen
If I see a rusted MC,
I dont bother trying save it ,
its easier to put a new part in and the brakes work perfect
Best bet fit a new brake MC and use DC 111 on the grommets where they seal against the MC inlet,
this will prevent water from corroding the new MC inlet bores,
yes it may take a few washes and rain storms to cause the rust,
BUT it will happen
If I see a rusted MC,
I dont bother trying save it ,
its easier to put a new part in and the brakes work perfect