Want to be

I had issue with my trunk latch system.

Needless to say, I've got the trunk to latch. It's not unlatching - but I was told it has to positioned up and down just right.

Anyway, back to my question. Is there a trunk switch to Enable the cabin lights? If yes, where

Many thanks for the help.

GlenL

The switch is part of the hatch receiver...the lower part.

Note that it doesn't connect the 12V but is connecting the ground. There's 12V to all the bulbs and then the ground-side gets closed. That can happen by a switch or bent connector or loose wire.

jchasty

Should be a push switch on the lip of the boot (trunk!) - simple up/down vertical switch to the left of the latch activated by the closing of the hatch

GlenL

Model year always helps.

Want to be

1987 - thought it was on my footer

Thanks everyone.

OTR18WHEELER

It looks/and is actuated like the switch in the A pillar for the dome lights, but it's not the same part, but similar.

Want to be

Ok, light issue resolved by bending away the connection post and taping up the wire connections.

Next opportunity: Auto Latch issue - originally the arm popped off from the motor and trunk would not latch. Id assume the brass piece was in the wrong position which kept the trunk from latching.

Question:

Does the black motor gear for the arm supposed to slip if its over torqued? I believe my trouble might be with the motor gear instead of the top hatch white nylon latch piece.

I created a video on what ive figured out to help myself and others, but ive yet to fix my auto lock.

Any comments, much appreciated. thanks again for the help.


Arm installed:


How the trunk release works:


Review and other info: - id assume the lock is removed from taped out center pin

Alan

I would not say it is very similar to the door switches (except that it is functionally a switch).

This switch is integrated into the bottom receiver as part of the spring mechanism that pushes up the white nylon plunger - contact to ground is broken when the plunger is all the way down.

If you are having problems with lights staying on you can just disconnect the brown/white wire to it to disable the hatch switch. The switch parts are easily visible with the receiver out of the car, awkward to see/reach with the receiver in the car, but easier if you remove the hatch release motor.

From your video - the hatch release cam works to release the upper part - so if you are having issues it is most likely that the motor isn't driving it through the correct range of motion. You adjust the motion range by moving the motor mounting point on the center support - lower = more cam movement. Be careful because if you go too low the motor may stall out.

I eventually deleted the crappy Porsche motor solution (too many issues) and went with a VW solenoid type. It is faster, quieter, cheaper, smaller and more reliable. No issues since installing.

Alan

Tony

you have the link for that again? Im sick of dealing with mine

Want to be

Does the motor cam supposed to slip? It seems when it's torqued the black plastic cam that turns pops the sprocket. I tried tightening down the Philips head but it still pops loose.

I'd also like to see your link on the VW swap.

Thanks for the info

Alan

The cam is not supposed to slip -you may have the motor adjusted too far down if that is happening - however once its been stressed a few times - the plastic gets warped and it pops off easier still...

One thing that may help you is wrapping the release cam with zip ties - to increase the effective range of motion.

See this old thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...eferrerid=6055

Here is the VW thread - it was Colin's initial idea:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...eferrerid=6055

Alan

Want to be

Very nice write up on he VW part swap.

My cam is slipping every time the hatch is down. I might try a dab of glue on the plastic gear and cover, but I'll first try the zip tie on the plastic gear. I'd like to stay away from using glue since I'm the worst person at using glue. Especially the gorilla glue.