Ducman82

why?

have you taken anything else apart? check the keyway on the crank or cam gears? time to dig in! find the culprit! :-)

jcorenman

Gates T196 would be better. The Conti is a bit stretchy, the factory belts are the Gates. I doubt if it is a belt issue, but it is good to rule it out. Jumping teeth means loss of tension control, and everything is suspect.

Also be sure to check that the PKT bracket is still securely fastened to the block. One of the previous failures involved a fracture of the countersunk screw under the tensioner with the two flange-heads being loose.

Hai gebissen

Because people have asked about that, and I can return it just as easily as I get it.

Belt is still on.

Cosmo Kramer

Can't see in the pic, is the keyway sitting at about 4-5 o'clock?

Hai gebissen

Belt off. No missing teeth or anything odd.

dr bob

The Conti belts are known to be "stretchier" than the Gates, adding another tension wildcard into the mix. So probably not a good choice even for testing purposes.

The PorKen tensioner is tough to get a tension reading on, since it moves as you test the tension. For sure it's impossible with the Kempf tool; as you twist the belt to get a reading, the tensioner retracts, diddling the reading. It may be possible to get a reading with the later factory tool, but since it too measures difference as it distorts the belt, it may have the same limitations.

I'm close to the opinion that the only way to validate belt tension with Ken's tensioner is using the sonic method, getting a specific resonance when the belt is "plucked".

Hai gebissen

Now at 3 o'clock as crank is at 45 mark.

Hai gebissen

All bolts visible in this pic are tight.

GregBBRD

Now that we all have our own theory....with valid reasons why we do/do not use certain parts....probably time to sit back and wait until the belt area is taken apart and see if any of the ancillary parts broke.

Eliminating cam breakage, water pump seizing, cam drive hub breakage, tensioner hardware breakage, etc. would be a prudent thing to do.

All the individal belt components can be on the workbench in 20 minutes, from the above pictures.

One immediate thing struck me as strange, but I have zero experience to know the answer....

Should the tensioner be able to be compressed with an 8mm Allen on the tensioning wheel?

soontobered84

What about a broken cam nose as Sean posted in reply #31?

Cosmo Kramer

Yes you use the tensioning wheel, I use a 8mm Allan socket coupled with a ratchet. Steady pressure and it moves back slowly. I don't think I could do it with just an Allan key.

SeanR

You can but your hand hurts after it's done. It's not an easy thing to press back in to position. The piston does not retract quickly but with steady pressure it does.

Hai gebissen

I am using this and SeanR is correct.

Hai gebissen

Now what?

Imo000

Another thing to consider is that the Audi tensioner keeps the belt a lot looser on the cam gears than the stock system. When the engine is at rest and cold, you can pull the belt off the cam gears with nothing more than your finger tips. I know this because I did this last summer. Combine this with machined heads that are at or bellow the factory spec and a maxed out Audi tensioner and you got yourself the answer on what happened here.

It's easy to measure if the head was resurfaced to below the factory limit. Maybe start there.

By the way, that belt looks perfectly fine, no sign of heating up from a siezed water pump or any other roller so, that theory can be dismissed.

As for why the cams are advanced, it's possible the crank skipped so much that it stopped where the cams now look advanced.