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I can't really disagree with you and Brian on this one. But I just need to see if this thing will run and drive. If the TB or WP goes **** up within a few miles I'm ok with dealing with that. I'll really be only be out the cost of coolant at that point since what I've done so far doesn't really coincide with the TB job. Plus after dropping about $2K in parts thus far, I could use the time to save up for the next salvo.
Ok, I can groc that. Being that I'm the cheapest bastard who ever walked upright, appealing to my sense of thrift has garnered you a pass on this job for now. Neither TB or WP failure in your case will be catastrophic; so complete your top end work, get some fresh gas, new batt, and go drive. Thus spake zarathustra.
Ubermench...
You put air in your tires? Man, that's livin' the fat life there. Tires? I don't even have tires. I just roll around on the casings I find on the side of the highway.
Still working on the top end refresh and fixing up stuff I have access to while I'm in there. I'm looking for some advice on the following three items. Thanks in advance!
1.) Accelerator cable - The barbed end pulls out of the fire wall plug very easily. I assume this should be snug. Any problems with bonding this in with some silicone? Or what's the preferred fix? New plug?
2.) Tranny control pressure cable - The hozzle (not sure what ya call it) slides easily off of the guide tube. Is this normal? This piece is not crimped on and I don't see any remnants of adhesive, so how does it stay in place?
3.) Airbox sealing frame - I am replacing this gasket and as you can see the old one was bonded on. What's the recommend adhesive here?
G'day Nate, I cannot answer your questions as I am a newbie to 928s, however I noticed where the accelerator cable goes into the housing on the firewall that it looks like it is about to break? or is it just the pixelated photo?
I am sure you would have seen this but I just had to mention it!!!
I don't know about the cables, but the similar cable housings as used for bicycles are not fastened to the cable stops; normal spring pressures hold them in place (once assembled) or, if not, there shouldn't be so much slack that they can fall out.
I see your adjustor barrel is turned out quite a ways; so is mine, and I'd like to turn it out more but don't dare.
I have seen everything from silicon to nothing on the airbox gasket. Not a critical area. I use old school gasket adhesive or a little dreibond just to hold it in place
The cables are loose like that when not fully installed on the bracket. No need for concern there.
All the 928s I've seen so far had the throttle cable come out of the firewal. Maybe this is normal, maybe not, but it comes handy when removing the valve cover on the 32V engines.
G'day Nate, I cannot answer your questions as I am a newbie to 928s, however I noticed where the accelerator cable goes into the housing on the firewall that it looks like it is about to break? or is it just the pixelated photo?
I am sure you would have seen this but I just had to mention it!!!
Good eyes. I noticed that also after I uploaded it and had to go check. Turns out it's just an out-of-focus dab of grease that makes the cable looked frayed.
Originally Posted by Adk46
I don't know about the cables, but the similar cable housings as used for bicycles are not fastened to the cable stops; normal spring pressures hold them in place (once assembled) or, if not, there shouldn't be so much slack that they can fall out.
I see your adjustor barrel is turned out quite a ways; so is mine, and I'd like to turn it out more but don't dare.
Good point about the stops. I didn't think to look at these cables before I disassembled the top end, so I can't say if they were loose in there respective housings. The barrel adjuster is how it was when I got the car. But I agree, it doesn't look like there is a lot left. Not sure if the two thread rule applies here.
Originally Posted by Guy
I have seen everything from silicon to nothing on the airbox gasket. Not a critical area. I use old school gasket adhesive or a little dreibond just to hold it in place
The cables are loose like that when not fully installed on the bracket. No need for concern there.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks Guy. Yeah it doesn't seem critical. I have plenty of adhesives in the garage to choose from.
Originally Posted by Imo000
All the 928s I've seen so far had the throttle cable come out of the firewal. Maybe this is normal, maybe not, but it comes handy when removing the valve cover on the 32V engines.
Good to know. It's likely a function of age and swelling of the grommet it plugs into. With a barbed fitting the intent, one would think, was for this to be removable but snug.
Originally Posted by docmirror
1. Don't hate me but --- gulp, JB Weld on the housing. Sparingly, you don't want to bind inside the cable.
2. Clean both ends to surgical sterile, then use the gel type superglue. Let it cure completely.
3. Not sure, but scrape off the old crud, and maybe go get a u-make-it sheet of gasket material from O'Reillys and use an exacto to do your thing.
1. No hate. I don't mind using semi-permanent band-aids. Though it seems like this piece needs to be removable on occasion. I think I am going to wrap the barbs with a few layers of Teflon tape and wedge it back in.
2. I never had long term success with SGs. Now JB weld.... But should it be bonded at all is the question.
3. I already have the gasket. Just was wondering what if any adhesive was being used. Thinner the better I'm assuming. I'll probably use Elmer's.
So Alex posted this great link yesterday in another thread about color combos offered on early cars. (hint: use google chrome and it will translate the page from German)
The pdf for exterior colors for the model year '84 lists both Platin Mettalic (Pewter Metallic) Code 655 and Zinn Metallic (Zinc Metallic) Code 956. My car is Zinc Metallic with code 956 on the jamb, hatch floor and warranty book. However, as you can see below, the window sticker calls out Pewter Metallic. No big deal. Obviously a typo. But just curious if anyone else has a similar error? Also you can see the color code listed as U3U3 on the sticker which is cross referenced in the pdf for Zinc Metallic. Any reason they use two different codes for the same color?
07-28-2016, 02:41 PM
