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Ed, is there a particular reason that the adaptor is needed between the block and the valve? Is it a clearance issue? I was looking at the F109N and it looks like it could just go in all by itself. Is there something I'm missing?
I'm pretty sure that the part of the valve assembly that holds the lever protrudes far enough that it's impossible to install it without the extension adapter. IIRC, it was so obvious by just looking that I'm not sure I even tried. Kind of hard to tell from the photos, though.
I'm pretty sure that the part of the valve assembly that holds the lever protrudes far enough that it's impossible to install it without the extension adapter. IIRC, it was so obvious by just looking that I'm not sure I even tried. Kind of hard to tell from the photos, though.
That's what I figured but I wanted to be sure. Thanks.
The one remaining concern I have is galvanic corrosion: brass and aluminum are not very compatible, and we obviously have water present. I didn't research this very much, but came across one post that is somewhat comforting.
I'd welcome informed opinions on this issue.
I expect to remove these valve assemblies within a year or two to see if there's any evidence of corrosion.
I hate the idea of damaging the block with galvanic corrosion, so is there a possibility of making an adapter identical to the ADP-109, but in aluminium?
If the adapter corrodes at the drain end, I don't think many would be concerned - easily and cheaply replaced.
I hate the idea of damaging the block with galvanic corrosion, so is there a possibility of making an adapter identical to the ADP-109, but in aluminium?
If the adapter corrodes at the drain end, I don't think many would be concerned - easily and cheaply replaced.
Done:
Had a local machinist making me a few in 7068 aluminium, with two changes to the ADP-109:
- Instead of 20mm "head" size, I had them made with 19mm "head" size (just because I'm under the opinion that 19mm is much more standard).
- Instead of 12mm long thread, I had them made with 22mm long thread. This because my driver side radiator block drain has the first several mm of it's thread stripped, and in the past I measured that luckily the thread goes on deeper into the block for a total of 22mm (and blocked it then with a screw of that length).
Many thanks towards Rob Edwards, who helped me out with getting some ADP-109's shipped to me.
The bit about making the adapter out of aluminium might not be quite the bright idea it might seem. First of all one has to understand a little bit about galvanic corrosion. The aluminium alloys will act as a sacrificial anode relative to the brass of the valve body. However that is not the full story by any means. One thing that seems to escape many engineering types is that galvanic corrosion is also controlled by the relative size of the cathode and the anode. As was mentioned earlier the temp 2 sensor does not cause failure at the casing threads. This is because there is a large area of electrolyte in contact with the comparatively huge casing body [the sacrificial anode] and whereas the protective action is taking place it is just never going to be noticed because of the total area it is taking place over.
My concern with the current mod is that the adapter is a relatively small piece of kit and if its galvanic potential is different [more negative] compared to the main casing alloy one wonders if it could become the sacrificial anode and if so become susceptible to failure. Not the end of the world if it did of course but perhaps something that may be prudent to research and eliminate as a possible concern. If the adapter is made of alusil no problem of course but one doubts that will be the case.
Trust the above of interest - hopefully not an issue.
Very cool, Arnoud. You should have a batch of these made and then eBay them (or otherwise make them available for sale). I'd probably get a couple.
Thanks, Ed, for having started this thread in the first place!
Regarding making a batch: unfortunately Finland has a very small population, with even fewer machinists - meaning high costs on basically everything. I did discussed this when I picked up these fully hand made pieces: to have these CNC made would require a minimum run of 20 pieces = 10 sets @ 40 EUR per set. Add posting costs to the U.S.A. (or basically: anywhere outside Finland) will make it closer to 50 EUR per set.
I guess therefor that it must be possible to have them (much) cheaper made in the U.S.A.?
Originally Posted by Chris Lockhart
Very smart idea Arnoud.
Thanks, Chris.
Originally Posted by hlee96
Great idea. I will take at least 4 or more.
See my above reply to Ed. So at this stage I'm not going have 10 set made, sorry.
Originally Posted by FredR
Excellent modification if the geometry works.
The bit about making the adapter out of aluminium might not be quite the bright idea it might seem. First of all one has to understand a little bit about galvanic corrosion. The aluminium alloys will act as a sacrificial anode relative to the brass of the valve body. However that is not the full story by any means. One thing that seems to escape many engineering types is that galvanic corrosion is also controlled by the relative size of the cathode and the anode. As was mentioned earlier the temp 2 sensor does not cause failure at the casing threads. This is because there is a large area of electrolyte in contact with the comparatively huge casing body [the sacrificial anode] and whereas the protective action is taking place it is just never going to be noticed because of the total area it is taking place over.
My concern with the current mod is that the adapter is a relatively small piece of kit and if its galvanic potential is different [more negative] compared to the main casing alloy one wonders if it could become the sacrificial anode and if so become susceptible to failure. Not the end of the world if it did of course but perhaps something that may be prudent to research and eliminate as a possible concern. If the adapter is made of alusil no problem of course but one doubts that will be the case.
Trust the above of interest - hopefully not an issue.
Rgds
Fred
Thanks for sharing this info, Fred, I learn something every day!
Originally Posted by hans14914
Using a nice anaerobic sealant, like Curil-T would work wonders for isolating the dissimilar materials....
And thanks Hans, for sharing this good tip too, learned even more today!
Every 2 years I get a bath of coolant. Both sides. There's no preventing it.
Hopefully I took my last one today. I installed the newer versions (B109SX)
that does not require the extension. When you see it you will see why. The valve
rotates around the attaching bolt.
For those wanting to follow suit, these are the tools that worked best for me (gear wrench on the allen and a 10mm to tighten things up.
04-29-2016, 02:58 PM
