throttle body whistle?
#31
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thanks for the suggestions. I'll be printing this.
But today I was driving the car around town to get a pizza. Suddenly when I was reversing into my garage- The car was shaking- The RPM went down but it didn't stall. I rev it up- The engine felt like no power. I did a drive again- The engine felt no power at all when accelerating(limp mode?) & when I stop at the junction- The car shakes. I drive back home- & let it idle for few minutes- It shakes but didn't stall.
So this no power engine, car shakes, related to the whistling?
Makes me wonder what if I didn't change the manifold gasket- I will not encounter this headache?
But today I was driving the car around town to get a pizza. Suddenly when I was reversing into my garage- The car was shaking- The RPM went down but it didn't stall. I rev it up- The engine felt like no power. I did a drive again- The engine felt no power at all when accelerating(limp mode?) & when I stop at the junction- The car shakes. I drive back home- & let it idle for few minutes- It shakes but didn't stall.
So this no power engine, car shakes, related to the whistling?
Makes me wonder what if I didn't change the manifold gasket- I will not encounter this headache?
#32
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Not that it is too relevant to the thread but for your interest, if we are talking about "real pipe" as in what we use in the oil industry the diameter is based on an API sizing convention wherein what is known as a "standard wall" pipe is sized such that the internal diameter is the same as the nominal pipe size for that specific wall thickness class. This applies to sizes up to 14 inches diameter and then for sizes 16 inch and greater the nominal size relates to outside diameter. I have no idea why this should be the case- just know that it is.
I dare say the stuff used in domestic plumbing is probably different altogether.
Rgds
Fred
#33
Check for a split in the hose that goes from the ISV to the MAF boot.
#35
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That one turned out to be one of the two gasket # 6 (lower Intake to upper) seals.
Also running on 4 cylinders can result in a CAT fire, do not run engine more than a few min's get a timing light and check for spark to all 8 plugs.
Also running on 4 cylinders can result in a CAT fire, do not run engine more than a few min's get a timing light and check for spark to all 8 plugs.
#36
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I may be wrong but I seem to remember this GTS is like mine- open loop [i.e. no cats]. Perhaps the OP can confirm.
Rgds
Fred
#37
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For comparison purposes, but may not be the exact same issue.
https://youtu.be/j5Vjz8ibxc4
https://youtu.be/j5Vjz8ibxc4
#38
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This clean '87 wasn't so lucky, however it is back on the road all cleaned up, can anyone spot the cause, it's in the picture
#39
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#43
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Ok enough thread hijacking...
Look by the left side coil, a Relay was installed by an Alarm co. to kill the ignition, however I guess they didn't see the other coil on the right side
Faulty/poor wiring done by the installer and zap, no spark to 4 of 8 cylinders = CAT fire!
Look by the left side coil, a Relay was installed by an Alarm co. to kill the ignition, however I guess they didn't see the other coil on the right side
Faulty/poor wiring done by the installer and zap, no spark to 4 of 8 cylinders = CAT fire!
#44
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Oh my that is really, really bad.... criminal or at least negligent !! But the owner did continue to drive it when it was running like crap and way down on power....." got to make it home, got to make it home"