Trying to find a fix for the headlight remote adjuster failure
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Trying to find a fix for the headlight remote adjuster failure
By now I would think that most 928's have a problem with the remote headlight adjuster mechanism on the headlight units. I have one that is bust and the other is marginal.
The problem is that the adjustment is controlled by moving a bowden cable with a 8mm nipple on its end backwards and forwards. The problem is the seat is made of plastic and has 4 tangs - the tangs break with age and then you are goosed.
The plastic bracket is pop rivetted to the base of the headlight unit so I pulled the latter and drilled out the rivets to try and recover as much of the plastic housing as I could with a view to seeing what if anything can be done to make a permanent repair.
In the meantime I needed a temporary solution to stop the headlights flopping around. Managed to come up with a temporary fix that might end up more permanent if I do not come up with anything suitable. I had some silicon tubing about 1 inch diameter- cut a section about 1 inch long and then cut down the length and coiled the piece into a "Swiss Roll" and bound it with some Gorilla tape. Made two pieces like this and used it as a wedge between the frame mount and the light bracket. It fitted in nice and snug and put one on each side of the frame. The light is now nice and tight- no back/forth movement any more. Probably need to adjust the aim but it seems to work. Of course no remote adjustment available at the moment.
Now have to find a way to replace the original component's function- looks like a job for a 3D printer- suggestions?
Should be easy to pop rivet something back on- that or use a small diameter bolt.
Rgds
Fred
The problem is that the adjustment is controlled by moving a bowden cable with a 8mm nipple on its end backwards and forwards. The problem is the seat is made of plastic and has 4 tangs - the tangs break with age and then you are goosed.
The plastic bracket is pop rivetted to the base of the headlight unit so I pulled the latter and drilled out the rivets to try and recover as much of the plastic housing as I could with a view to seeing what if anything can be done to make a permanent repair.
In the meantime I needed a temporary solution to stop the headlights flopping around. Managed to come up with a temporary fix that might end up more permanent if I do not come up with anything suitable. I had some silicon tubing about 1 inch diameter- cut a section about 1 inch long and then cut down the length and coiled the piece into a "Swiss Roll" and bound it with some Gorilla tape. Made two pieces like this and used it as a wedge between the frame mount and the light bracket. It fitted in nice and snug and put one on each side of the frame. The light is now nice and tight- no back/forth movement any more. Probably need to adjust the aim but it seems to work. Of course no remote adjustment available at the moment.
Now have to find a way to replace the original component's function- looks like a job for a 3D printer- suggestions?
Should be easy to pop rivet something back on- that or use a small diameter bolt.
Rgds
Fred
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928NOOBIE (03-24-2020)
#2
Rennlist Member
Fred - I measured one up (with room for additional material) a few years ago but never got it into CAD for 3D printing.
My hatch latch project is almost complete so I might have some time to get some 3D printed early in the new year.
Cheers
Myles
My hatch latch project is almost complete so I might have some time to get some 3D printed early in the new year.
Cheers
Myles
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Interesting.
My assumption is that the socket is meant to be a sort of protective device allowing the system to disengage if something hits the headlamp and thus take some of the sting out of the hit not that it can do that much.
For this reason when coming up with a temporary solution I tried to find something with a bit of "elastic give" in it.
Rgds
Fred
#7
Nordschleife Master
I've got a broken one, too. Material selection is important as it has to allow the ball to pass without cracking...again. Although I seem to bust them getting it apart. Another time I'd like to see how they something it at the factory.
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#8
Rennlist Member
This was likely never a problem "new" when the plastic wasn't dried out.
Bout anything printed would work fine for 20yrs..just has to be the size of the ball IN the cup, and .01mm smaller at the edge or so.
Bout anything printed would work fine for 20yrs..just has to be the size of the ball IN the cup, and .01mm smaller at the edge or so.
#9
Rennlist Member
Not sure how many have the little black circle of plastic that sits over the end of the white clip to help hold the ball in place. Chances are many have never seen one. (It could still be sitting on the shaft with the ball).
Looks like I need to get my A into G and get the CAD file done.
BTW I don't have a printer - There are some on this list who do and have printed parts for the 928 community before - I would be putting it out there for them to do this again if they wish. Otherwise I would need to get a commercial outfit to print them.
Myles
Looks like I need to get my A into G and get the CAD file done.
BTW I don't have a printer - There are some on this list who do and have printed parts for the 928 community before - I would be putting it out there for them to do this again if they wish. Otherwise I would need to get a commercial outfit to print them.
Myles
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Not sure how many have the little black circle of plastic that sits over the end of the white clip to help hold the ball in place. Chances are many have never seen one. (It could still be sitting on the shaft with the ball).
Looks like I need to get my A into G and get the CAD file done.
BTW I don't have a printer - There are some on this list who do and have printed parts for the 928 community before - I would be putting it out there for them to do this again if they wish. Otherwise I would need to get a commercial outfit to print them.
Myles
Looks like I need to get my A into G and get the CAD file done.
BTW I don't have a printer - There are some on this list who do and have printed parts for the 928 community before - I would be putting it out there for them to do this again if they wish. Otherwise I would need to get a commercial outfit to print them.
Myles
I suspect that when the tangs break that clip goes into orbit. I only studied the side that took a dump - I suspect if the ring you refer is missing it will not lock the ball in situ. Thus why I suspect 3D printing alone may not be the answer albeit a substantial part of one.
Beyond that, apart from a further complication with actuators, wiring other bits to go wrong/fail, I wonder what real world value it adds? It is not as though one is going to travel across Europe with two fatties in the back seats.
Regards
Fred
#12
Rennlist Member
Fred,
a new locking clip that was easier to use was part of the plan.
I found on a piece with 3 intact tangs the locking clip was sometimes enough to hold everything in place.
Myles
a new locking clip that was easier to use was part of the plan.
I found on a piece with 3 intact tangs the locking clip was sometimes enough to hold everything in place.
Myles
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I am thinking of trying to form a unit using a 2 pack metal epoxy.