Hilton

Surely the actual conversion rate depends on whether its a torquing horse?

FredR

Managed to get my in tank pump sorted out after re-soldering the connections but was less successful with my spare pump which unfortunately let go on the hidden side of the connector pin on the pump.

Whether or not I can recover the spare pump from this I do not know but if anyone has ever opened one of these things much appreciate advice as to how you did it. Obviously the casing has to be opened and probably contains a cartridge with the motor and pump integral. I presume the motor is normally flooded and not sealed from the gasoline [non conductive fluid].

I used my new 1/4 inch torque wrench to install the pump but it looked kind of funny seeing a 3/4 inch 36mm socket attached to a little thing like that- still it seemed to work OK.

Reattaching the tank straps was fun - eventually fathomed out that if I put my scissor jack under the cradle to support/help push it upwards it gave me a fighting chance of getting the bolt started given a little distortion after having pushed and pulled the cradle a bit during the process.

Regards

Fred

Jerry Feather

I am reminded of a story from my previous life in the Navion/airplane world where a friend of mine in the Navion club who lived in Anchorage owned a fairly large hangar for his Navion and which was large enough to rent space for another airplane. When both aircraft were in the hangar my friend decided for some reason to drain all or some fuel from his, into a bucket. While doing that a static electricity spark ignited the fuel and then my friend jumped up and tried to open the hangar door which for some reason got stuck half way up. Within seconds, my friend says, the baggage floor of his Navion and everything in the compartment, just above where he was draining the fuel, was on the hangar floor and by the time he finally got the hangar door open all he could drag a little bit out that was not burned was the front with the engine and prop. The fire burned everything else including the hangar and most of both aircraft. Because of the extreme cost of insurance in Alaska they were both going self insured, so my friend suffered a big loss including paying the other guy for his airplane.

dr bob

Alignment of picture is inverted. When measuring horsepower-seconds on the Kibort scale, getting a valid reading requires looking from the south end of a northbound horse.

FredR

Well I managed to disassemble my spare in-tank pump to see if I could fix the internal wiring problem that was bugging it.

The pump comes apart at the strainer end and I used a jewellers screwdriver to pry back the aluminium casing. The trick here is to do it bit by bit so as to leave something to work with when it is time to put it all back together.

Once the casing is expanded the strainer comes out as a separate piece. Once the strainer is out the rest of the innerds will slide through but be careful- there is nothing that holds the various bits and pieces together and if it is a bit sticky as mine was the first thing you know is when all the bits are on the kitchen floor!

This was not too problematical as I have a reasonable understanding of pumps. To my surprise this pump is a two stage affair.

The problem are was a broken connection on the inside of the pump on the positive terminal. The cable had fractured from the blind side of the cable nipple- initially I thought it had broken because of too much heat causing the solder to let go but that was not the case.

The bit that needed soldering was a very thing copper wire. There is what looks to be a carbon rod with the wire wound around it over a distance of about 1/2 inch. The wire then connects to the power supply. I decided to omit the nipple and solder some new 1mm2 wire directly to the copper wire. After soldering the wire up I then slid a very short length of heat shrink over the new joint and then fed the cable back out of the bulk head for later soldering to the bulk head fitting.

The trick now is to get all the pieces assembled. The first problem was to feed the commutator into the brushes. I did this by feeding the jewellers screwdriver down the nozzle and carefully pryed open the brushes- then I was able to feed the armature through the brushes.

Now you have to mount the stator [make sure you get this the right way round] over the armature. The stator pushes into lugs on the plastic casing and again one has to be careful not to break these- there is an engagement dog that you have to find.

Next the various pieces of the pump have to be fed over the shaft one at a time holding it all together in your palm. You then slip the assembly carefully into the aluminium casing and if you get it right, you then slip the strainer element over the assembly and then hold it all captive with your fingers.

Whilst doing this with one hand I then peened the casing back into position with a hammer gently working my way around the circumference. To my utter astonishment it seemed to hold quite firmly.

I then resoldered the wires to the outlet nozzle and slipped my piece of GB hose onto the nozzles. Having crimped the clamps previously I will have to wait for another day to fit some clamps.

Took the pump into the 928 battery bay and lo and behold the motor span quite nicely but only run it for a brief moment whilst the pump is dry just to check it rotates.

There is only one way the job lot can go back and fit in the casing so you cannot get that wrong but you have to be careful which way round the impeller is placed. The flat surface faces the stator end of the piece- fortunately I could remember this from the assembly prior to dismantling and it makes hydraulic sense.

Of course if it does not work I will look rather dumb.

Bottom line it was not too difficult to pull the pump apart and the brushes were heardly worn or so it seemed.

Couple of pics below- apologies for not taking a few more.

Regards

Fred