stuck on the side of the road.
09-23-2015, 10:43 AM
#61
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Did you test your EZK on another vehicle?
Did you check spark on cylinder #1 to the timing marks?
Something could be up with the ignition timing, even though you have spark it may be way off which would point to the crank sensor or EZK.
I'm not sure this is even possible (I don't recall ever hearing this happen with a 85+ 928), but it's the next thing I would check.
Without the engine running this will be rather tricky......I'm not sure what the timing should be during cranking (20 degrees rings a bell).
With a non running engine, best way to do this is pull the plugs so the engine can crank easier and pull the fuel pump fuse so you are not spraying fuel anywhere.
Last time I had to check this was on a '68 Cuda in Highschool.
Did you check spark on cylinder #1 to the timing marks?
Something could be up with the ignition timing, even though you have spark it may be way off which would point to the crank sensor or EZK.
I'm not sure this is even possible (I don't recall ever hearing this happen with a 85+ 928), but it's the next thing I would check.
Without the engine running this will be rather tricky......I'm not sure what the timing should be during cranking (20 degrees rings a bell).
With a non running engine, best way to do this is pull the plugs so the engine can crank easier and pull the fuel pump fuse so you are not spraying fuel anywhere.
Last time I had to check this was on a '68 Cuda in Highschool.
09-23-2015, 11:05 AM
#62
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Did you test your EZK on another vehicle?
Did you check spark on cylinder #1 to the timing marks?
Something could be up with the ignition timing, even though you have spark it may be way off which would point to the crank sensor or EZK.
I'm not sure this is even possible (I don't recall ever hearing this happen with a 85+ 928), but it's the next thing I would check.
Without the engine running this will be rather tricky......I'm not sure what the timing should be during cranking (20 degrees rings a bell).
With a non running engine, best way to do this is pull the plugs so the engine can crank easier and pull the fuel pump fuse so you are not spraying fuel anywhere.
Last time I had to check this was on a '68 Cuda in Highschool.
Did you check spark on cylinder #1 to the timing marks?
Something could be up with the ignition timing, even though you have spark it may be way off which would point to the crank sensor or EZK.
I'm not sure this is even possible (I don't recall ever hearing this happen with a 85+ 928), but it's the next thing I would check.
Without the engine running this will be rather tricky......I'm not sure what the timing should be during cranking (20 degrees rings a bell).
With a non running engine, best way to do this is pull the plugs so the engine can crank easier and pull the fuel pump fuse so you are not spraying fuel anywhere.
Last time I had to check this was on a '68 Cuda in Highschool.
My crank sensor was new and has maybe 10k kms on it.
John, when I get home, ill unplug the maf and see if that changes anything.
09-23-2015, 10:02 PM
#64
Team Owner
swap in a new temp 2 sensor
09-24-2015, 09:52 AM
#66
Rennlist Member
09-24-2015, 10:37 AM
#67
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So here is the update; as I mentioned before I have an issue with the temp II sensor. But I don't think that is the cause, boy I hope I'm wrong there..
So last night I tested my EZK on Phendriks car and it works too. we unplugged his temp II to see how it would effect his car and there was not a whole lot of difference.
So to date tested and functioning: LH, EZK, Fuel Pump (54psi), Coils, both distributors output spark, and Ignition amps all work. I've replaced the CPS, TPS, MAF all within the last two years.
That said, I managed to get the engine started...(but get this! pumping the throttle) I know that is not suppose to work for fuel injected cars, but as long as I was pumping the throttle...it would keep running (very poorly, like before) and I could even build RPM by doing this. Once I stopped...the engine would die.
Its like the injectors are flooding the engine. When the car originally died on the highway the guy behind me said he saw a puff of black smoke from the tail pipe and them I pulled over. if this is indeed what is happening, what would cause this?
thanks in advance
k
So last night I tested my EZK on Phendriks car and it works too. we unplugged his temp II to see how it would effect his car and there was not a whole lot of difference.
So to date tested and functioning: LH, EZK, Fuel Pump (54psi), Coils, both distributors output spark, and Ignition amps all work. I've replaced the CPS, TPS, MAF all within the last two years.
That said, I managed to get the engine started...(but get this! pumping the throttle) I know that is not suppose to work for fuel injected cars, but as long as I was pumping the throttle...it would keep running (very poorly, like before) and I could even build RPM by doing this. Once I stopped...the engine would die.
Its like the injectors are flooding the engine. When the car originally died on the highway the guy behind me said he saw a puff of black smoke from the tail pipe and them I pulled over. if this is indeed what is happening, what would cause this?
thanks in advance
k
Last edited by kmascotto; 09-24-2015 at 02:34 PM.
09-24-2015, 10:46 AM
#68
Administrator - "Tyson"
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There are two temp sensors at the front of the intake.
One has two wires going to it (that is for the gauge) the other has a blue connector. The blue one is the Temp II.
One side gives a reading to the EZK, the other the LH.
09-24-2015, 11:01 AM
#69
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The car will not run - at all - with the temp II disconnected
There are two temp sensors at the front of the intake.
One has two wires going to it (that is for the gauge) the other has a blue connector. The blue one is the Temp II.
One side gives a reading to the EZK, the other the LH.
There are two temp sensors at the front of the intake.
One has two wires going to it (that is for the gauge) the other has a blue connector. The blue one is the Temp II.
One side gives a reading to the EZK, the other the LH.
09-24-2015, 11:10 AM
#71
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Bazaar to say the least.....
09-24-2015, 11:31 AM
#72
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
wow...that is Bazaar... We unplugged his and he started his gts without issue.
09-24-2015, 12:18 PM
#73
Rennlist Member
09-24-2015, 05:15 PM
#74
Nordschleife Master
In my experience, limp home mode won't hold idle, so you need to hold the pedal down to keep it running, and if you apply throttle gently, you can get it to around 2500 rpm before it leans out and dies.
So it would seem the problem here is either the MAF itself, of the connector/harness from the MAF to the LH. I'm guessing the issue is a short inside the MAF connector boot
09-24-2015, 05:53 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If unplugging the MAF makes no difference, the ECU is in limp home mode, and running fixed pulse width.
In my experience, limp home mode won't hold idle, so you need to hold the pedal down to keep it running, and if you apply throttle gently, you can get it to around 2500 rpm before it leans out and dies.
So it would seem the problem here is either the MAF itself, of the connector/harness from the MAF to the LH. I'm guessing the issue is a short inside the MAF connector boot
In my experience, limp home mode won't hold idle, so you need to hold the pedal down to keep it running, and if you apply throttle gently, you can get it to around 2500 rpm before it leans out and dies.
So it would seem the problem here is either the MAF itself, of the connector/harness from the MAF to the LH. I'm guessing the issue is a short inside the MAF connector boot
I am going to pull that MAF boot and have a closer look. Plus replace the temp II and try a new MAF