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Back in the deep end: 32V Intake Job

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Old 09-03-2015, 01:20 AM
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zekgb
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Default Back in the deep end: 32V Intake Job

So having recovered from my TB/WP ordeal in the spring it's time to deal with the intake. Started disassembly yesterday using Mike Frye's most excellent document as a guide and got down to the throttle body, but today I only had an hour or so and was looking to get to the valley floor which I did. Thirty years of grime, mostly due to a badly torn cam cover breather hose, but not too bad cosidering. Shortly after this I ran into my first road block which is a torn rear throttle body standoff. I tried for a bit to get a vice grip on the stub to no avail so stopped before frustration set in. What's my best play for this guy?




Circled is what I broke.
Old 09-03-2015, 02:51 AM
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JHowell37
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Angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Cut a notch into the top surface and use a flat head screwdriver to try and remove it.
Old 09-03-2015, 06:12 AM
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Dave928S
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You can also try a few heat/cold cycles. I use a Mapp gas torch and Loctite freeze spray.
Old 09-03-2015, 11:22 AM
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sydneyman
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in the middle of this right now as well. just waiting on injector cleaning. the breather hose that had split on me was the one from the t connection to the connecting tube in the middle. it was weird, it was cut lengthwise. are you going to paint the intake?
Old 09-03-2015, 11:37 AM
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Bertrand Daoust
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Originally Posted by Dave928S
You can also try a few heat/cold cycles. I use a Mapp gas torch and Loctite freeze spray.
+1.
Old 09-03-2015, 11:58 AM
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zekgb
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Originally Posted by sydneyman2007
in the middle of this right now as well. just waiting on injector cleaning. the breather hose that had split on me was the one from the t connection to the connecting tube in the middle. it was weird, it was cut lengthwise. are you going to paint the intake?
Mine was basically falling apart and tore completely at the clamp when I moved it. I have the intake out for powder coating, local guy doing it for a good price. I'm going to do the valve covers as well but I'm really nervous about the shoulder bolts as I'm not anxious to pull the engine if I snap one of them in one of the hard to reach spots.
Old 09-03-2015, 12:12 PM
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Paddcomp
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I've just completed my intake refresh, so can still remember what it looks like in the V.

My 88 S4 didn't have anything in that bolt hole position. This is a picture from before I cleaned it.

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P.S. This is what you've got to look forward to.

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Old 09-03-2015, 12:25 PM
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the flyin' scotsman
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is the circled area not the knock sensor?
Old 09-03-2015, 12:59 PM
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Paddcomp
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
is the circled area not the knock sensor?
Now I look again and count the ribs you're right. So it does need fixing.
Old 09-03-2015, 01:13 PM
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zekgb
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
is the circled area not the knock sensor?
Sorry this is an 85 32Ver we don't need no stinkin' knock sensors (we just retard the crap out of the timing so it can't possibly knock.)
Old 09-03-2015, 03:35 PM
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i'm doing mine as we speak (86.5). does anyone know the part number of the two hoses that come out from the cam cover?? The PET diagrams are not very helpful.
I think one is a 92810744500...but the other I can't seem to find.

Last edited by kmascotto; 09-03-2015 at 05:22 PM.
Old 09-03-2015, 04:30 PM
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hwyengr
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The other one is NLA. Roger sells a modified version. Part number was 928 110 432 00.
Old 09-03-2015, 04:52 PM
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That's great thank you!
Old 09-03-2015, 10:08 PM
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zekgb
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After cleaning up the valley I was able to remove the broken standoff by chiseling around the edge, thanks for the feedback everyone. Next up, valve covers (gulp.) What should I use to protect the valve train while I have the covers out for powder coating?
Old 09-04-2015, 01:50 PM
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zekgb
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For the valve cover I have to decide whether to update the existing standoff and shoulder bolts with the updated single piece hex head bolts. Has anyone here done the update? Do the standoffs thread out with no problem? Is there any reason other than the $250 price tag not to do it?


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