When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd put in about 60ml per cylinder so it gets around most of the cylinder wall when you turn the engine by hand. Let it seep past the rings while you take timing belt covers off.
Turning the engine over by hand with the plugs out has no risk of hydrolock anyway, and you've got a fair bit of work dealing with checking timing marks and removing the old timing belt so you can feel the water pump bearing by hand.
If you need to spend money, the things I'd be buying now are:
Flywheel lock tool (can get away without this - stick it in 5th gear and park brake on - but you'll want one once you're ready to start spending)
Kempf timing belt tension tool
Timing belt
27mm deep socket on a 3/4" breaker bar to undo the crank nut
If the water pump turns and doesn't feel lumpy, just leave it on there and not try to deal with the likely very corroded M6 bolts holding it on just yet. String a new belt, tension it, and plan to go back in there later to break/drill/replace water pump bolts once you've proven the engine has compression and runs.
For the fuel system - don't replace anything yet (its easy to spend $1k on the fuel system.. so don't start.. avoid spending money until you get the engine running or at least prove it has compression). If it doesn't leak with 2 gallons of fresh gas and the fuel pump running (jumper the fuel pump relay to make the pump run), then check fuel delivery (can check at the front of the right fuel rail with some hose and a clamp - 19mm wrench to remove the cap there), and add it to the list of jobs for "once it runs"..
Thanks. The fuel pump is definitely dead, so I have to replace that, at the very least, after I replace the belt and make sure it turns. I planned to clean the tank, because I don't want crud circulating through the lines, but I'll hold of until I know the engine's not seized. I'm halfway there to being able to crank it by hand.
Thanks. The fuel pump is definitely dead, so I have to replace that, at the very least, after I replace the belt and make sure it turns. I planned to clean the tank, because I don't want crud circulating through the lines, but I'll hold of until I know the engine's not seized. I'm halfway there to being able to crank it by hand.
Before replacing the fuel pump, try using leads direct from the battery to apply polarity in alternate directions, off the car (spray the inside of the inlet and outlet liberally with WD40 or similar just to help reduce any friction jamming it stuck). It might just be jammed on a piece of debris and they can often be unjammed by running it backwards and forwards alternately until it spits something out the inlet side.
Its probably due for replacment due to age, but in the spirit of not spending hundreds of dollars yet, it might get you far enough
Just a bit busy, but things are coming along. Waiting on a few parts from Einmalig. They're cheaper than pelican, but when a part comes from Germany, boy are they slow!
I got ahold of a boroscope and plan to peer into the cylinders tomorrow. Any recommendations on prep, or what to keep an eye out for?
Ok, I'm back. Finally got a borescope, though unfortunately, it was too large to fit so I only got a birds eye view, which is pretty worthless. Nonetheless, didn't notice anything when I peaked inside. Just filled each cylinder with oil to seep over the weekend. Hope to tackle more on Monday.
She Turns! Ok, the I left some Marvel Oil in each of the cylinders over the weekend, and got cranking on Monday (literally and figuratively). Two quick questions:
1. How much should I turn the engine to ensure all of the oil has left the cylinders, before I actually replace the spark plugs and get ready for a test start.
2. At the end of draining the oil, I used my index finger to feel around the outlet hole for debris. I felt a post that goes from the top to the bottom of the pan, that's about 5 mm in thickness. Is this a structural member, or an oil stalactite?
Vmmmm, Vmmmmmmmmm. She turns...first time since 2001!
Throttle's definitely off and I think the temp gauge is shot, but I've never been so excited to sit in a cloud of carbon monoxide, holding my breath to hear the engine.
So, after turning it over and letting it idle, checking my belts, fluids, and gauges, I took the car for the spin (the first time since 2001!). Drives great, clean shifts and sounds steady. Clutch depression, gearbox shifting, and turning are definitely stiffer than my '88 944, but no complaints. I have to change the oil pressure gauge, but other sensors seem to be in working order. No windows yet, but the seats and other interior electrical work fine.
Onto the next step in restoration, including lots of touch up on the body. I think both bumpers are non-original, so I may just have them redone. Pictures to come soon!
09-04-2015, 12:01 PM
