Bringing a 928 S4 back to life
08-26-2015, 04:48 PM
#23
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The big concern is how badly corroded the heads are after sitting so many years after the coolant went bad.
Try to limit your investment until it is proven to be a running driving car....
Try to limit your investment until it is proven to be a running driving car....
08-26-2015, 04:54 PM
#24
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The car was supposedly taking out of commission after a coolant issue. It's definitely completely dry of coolant on the hoses, but I haven't checked other parts yet. all the other fluids are still at working levels. Do you think it's better for the heads if They sat in the dry air versus stale coolant?
08-26-2015, 06:22 PM
#25
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The car was supposedly taking out of commission after a coolant issue. It's definitely completely dry of coolant on the hoses, but I haven't checked other parts yet. all the other fluids are still at working levels. Do you think it's better for the heads if They sat in the dry air versus stale coolant?
08-26-2015, 08:00 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
Dry is probably good news for the heads.
Assuming the coolant issue is plausible (i.e. the seller seems like a non-lying-scumbag type), the tirst steps I'd take are se if it turns over by hand, then pop the timing belt and water pump off, inspect the pump, and pop it back on with a new pump gasket, together with new thermostsat rear seal, o-ring and thermostat, and timing belt.
Then clean all the grounds, grab a couple of spare cheap type 53 relays, pressurise the fuel system (using a jumper in the relay position) and check for leaks, before trying to start it
Your goal at this stage is to prove it runs, has compression etc. I wouldn't worry about replacing anything expensive yet, including fuel lines, until the engine runs under its own steam. You might need to beg/borrow a working MAF and ECU depending on the results of trying to start it.
Once you get it running, you can throw money at it like the rest of us
Assuming the coolant issue is plausible (i.e. the seller seems like a non-lying-scumbag type), the tirst steps I'd take are se if it turns over by hand, then pop the timing belt and water pump off, inspect the pump, and pop it back on with a new pump gasket, together with new thermostsat rear seal, o-ring and thermostat, and timing belt.
Then clean all the grounds, grab a couple of spare cheap type 53 relays, pressurise the fuel system (using a jumper in the relay position) and check for leaks, before trying to start it
Your goal at this stage is to prove it runs, has compression etc. I wouldn't worry about replacing anything expensive yet, including fuel lines, until the engine runs under its own steam. You might need to beg/borrow a working MAF and ECU depending on the results of trying to start it.
Once you get it running, you can throw money at it like the rest of us
08-26-2015, 09:22 PM
#29
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I would put ATF into the Cyl holes it will soak into the rings and loosen the carbon
08-26-2015, 10:09 PM
#30
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Agreed ATF is a much better lubricant...water displacement being a moot point by now...so pull the plugs get a little in each cylinder then in as day or so with plugs out...slowly rotate the crank by hand to line up the timing marks (remove distributor caps )before setting the crank at 45 degrees in preparation of changing the belt and inspecting the water pump....it may have seized or spun an impeller so it MUST come off.