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Changing half shaft axle boots

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Old 11-25-2015, 07:54 PM
  #61  
FredR
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Perma-Quick pliers, 17.99 euros.



More expensive SKF VKN401 version, 29.90e. Basically same tool with 10 euro markup for brand name.

Errka,

Found a pair of those for $15 on Amazon in the States- costs more to get them here but that's life. My nail pullers seemed to do a half decent job without any signs of distress- if I get grease everywhere I will know I was wrong.

Rgds

Fred
Old 11-25-2015, 08:19 PM
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mark kibort
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Originally Posted by FredR
Errka,

Found a pair of those for $15 on Amazon in the States- costs more to get them here but that's life. My nail pullers seemed to do a half decent job without any signs of distress- if I get grease everywhere I will know I was wrong.

Rgds

Fred
wish i would have known about the nail pullers.. man, mine was a MESS! glad it was on the black 1979 racer we had back in the day. (and if i remember, i think the older cars bolted on both sides and you didnt need to pull the axle nuts.)
Old 11-26-2015, 07:14 AM
  #63  
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I used the pliers that are for breaking small pieces off bathroom/kitchen wall tiles. They don't have that support in the middle but otherwise works fine for this. Every body has one somewhere ftom the dsys you thought you could do anything in the house. Until the cars came.
Old 11-26-2015, 07:38 AM
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Aaron Ambrosino, current treasurer of PCA, kindly loaned me his Perma-Quik pliers. Sometimes it's all about who you know.
Old 11-26-2015, 07:46 AM
  #65  
Vilhuer
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Center push thing is the important part in these. Its the whole point in using this special tool and its there for a reason. Without it just about anything works as long as its not too sharp to cut metal when pressure is applied. But band is not tightened properly without that center.
Old 11-26-2015, 10:35 AM
  #66  
FredR
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Center push thing is the important part in these. Its the whole point in using this special tool and its there for a reason. Without it just about anything works as long as its not too sharp to cut metal when pressure is applied. But band is not tightened properly without that center.
Erkka,

I was a bit concerned about the possibility of incorrect tightening but what I noticed was that the clamps appear to have a reinforcement rib along the top flat. What I noted was that as I pinched it up the top flat remained flat and the sides were close to touching as intimated in various on-line videos for branded products.

Rgds

Fred
Old 11-26-2015, 04:43 PM
  #67  
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Similar - $9.95 http://www.rjtool.com/cv-joint-boot-...rs-kd-424.html
Old 11-27-2015, 07:32 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by jtrygstad
Have those too. Can't ever have too many tools.
Old 11-27-2015, 10:16 AM
  #69  
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The boot kit I ordered has the screw type clamp. My old boots were showing wear where the screw had rubbed against the boot. Has anyone else had this problem? Wondering if I should get clamps?
Old 11-27-2015, 01:14 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Center push thing is the important part in these. Its the whole point in using this special tool and its there for a reason. Without it just about anything works as long as its not too sharp to cut metal when pressure is applied. But band is not tightened properly without that center.
I decided to buy the CV boot clamp pliers after all. But after seeing this video I wonder why.

The main important thing seems to be the hook ate the end (last tooth) which prevents the band from unhooking. Much better than the cheaper ones with 3 small teeth. Just as explained int he video. Using the normal pliers as in my picture doesn't seem to be a problem. I think the result using normal pliers as in my picture works just fine. This band is much stronger than the cheaper ones supplied with most boots. The real Perma-Quick pliers will be more important when using the cheaper clamps. Just my opnion.

I bought a new boot because I punctured my new boot when I installated the axle into the car (yes, last bolt). Guess what? Cheap band. The bands I had bought from Porsche (see picture) were the better quality as explained in the video. I think they are Oetiker.
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Last edited by Ad0911; 11-27-2015 at 01:40 PM.
Old 11-27-2015, 02:23 PM
  #71  
FredR
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Ad,

The clips Roger supplied with my kit are the quality ones shown in the video in so much as I can tell. I did not use the correct tool - I used my pincers but in 3 careful steps to ensure nothing was going pear shaped.

I intend to get the correct tool and possibly nip the fitting as the chap did in the video but I doubt what I did is going to go anywhere.

Rgds

Fred
Old 12-03-2015, 04:39 PM
  #72  
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Default V.A.G. 1275

According to the WSM, the clamp has to be squeezed with special pliers e.g. VW 1275 (now V.A.G. 1275) of which I found some drawings, the best one from a Skoda service manual.

Seems we can relax a bit if we did not use the pliers with the support in the middle of the claw.
I think the right quality clamp does it all.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:51 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Ad0911
According to the WSM, the clamp has to be squeezed with special pliers e.g. VW 1275 (now V.A.G. 1275) of which I found some drawings, the best one from a Skoda service manual.

Seems we can relax a bit if we did not use the pliers with the support in the middle of the claw.
I think the right quality clamp does it all.
Ad,

The clamps I used had a reinforcement rib on the top of the lug- when i pinched the clamp the flat on top did not buckle at all. If you research these tools there are quite a number that do not have the support plate in the centre but of course a technically correct tool should have these.

Using the pincers I possess I just took the pinching process in steps checking to ensure that I was initiating a cut at the pinch points. As I can tell it went well but guess we will see shortly as my planned work programme is converging nicely and hope to be back on the road in a few days time.

I am about to purchase a more correct type of tool from Amazon for future use.

Regards

Fred
Old 12-08-2015, 03:09 PM
  #74  
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Took the 928 off the jack stands today and tightened the stub axle nuts to 322ft lbs with my new 3/4 inch torque wrench rated to 370 ft lbs. Supported the extension piece with my scissor jack with some grease to minimise friction. It was very easy to get the necessary torque with the available lever arm.

Rgds


Fred
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:13 PM
  #75  
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Bravo Fred! Just went through this thread and found many gems. The boots look good and pliable on my S4 but I have been sort of dreading it when the day comes. One must embrace the grease...


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