atb

Had an unexpected surprise when I went to install my OB DD clutch on my track car ('79 body / S4 motor).
I installed DL3 headers, presuming that I'd be able to mount the clutch without issues, but no go. They were about an inch too narrow.

Any one else have this problem? I'm wondering if with larger primaries the L3's lose that function? (Pretty sure L2's are designed to drop the clutch without issue) Had to back off the passenger side mounting nuts all the way, and then had enough room to clear the starter ring gear.

Ducman82

yup, they do that.

hans14914

My L2 didnt really clear... it took two guys, pry bar, and trans jack to get the clutch assembly through the pipes... Not looking forward to getting it back out in the future.

mark kibort

thats interesting.. I have had NO issues with the devek level 2 headers and remember i did 6 clutch jobs on that throwout bearing issue a year or two ago!
in fact, even after the holbert accident, the headers got pinched a little and there is still enough room to wiggle out the lower bell housing.
no issue at all with the starter ring clad int plate...... i have a scar on my face to prove it.

also cant imagine the jig being different on some sets to cause an issue.

AO

The DL2's on my GT clear fine. One or two of the bolts is tough to get at, so I leave it out. But the lower bell housing cover comes off fine for me.

Here's a pic...

Tom. M

That is interesting. I searched for pics of mine from underneath (Devek L3s) when I was doing my pan spacer/windage screen/rod bearings and it looks like the clutch should drop out without too much fuss..but I haven't done the actual clutch drop with the headers in place.

Here's a pic of my setup...

mark kibort

dont leave those bolts out! just use a swivel 13mm and that should get to them easy enough.... looks like a lot of room from the other's pics... wonder what the issues was .... bad set of headers ?

AO

Weight savings!

Actually it's not the access that's the issue. The issue is the bolt can't come out (or go back in) because the header gets in the way. Leaving them out is not an issue. It;s not structural... just holds the cover on.

Mrmerlin

Andrew ,The headers look great !
based on your picture,
I would highly recommend that you remove the factory clutch slave line and install the Greg Brown flex line,
this will remove the hard line portion away from the headers.

NOTE the way you have the line , the heat from the headers will possibly boil the fluid .
NOTE this can cause reduced clutch action and also damage the seals in the slave.

NOTE make sure the power wires are not rubbing on the sway bar,
as the bar does move when the vehicle is in motion and can wear through the insulation.

AO

Hi Stan,

Thanks for your thoughts on the matter. That picture is a few years old, and yes, I did have the headers boil the clutch fluid once after a long hot run through the mountains. My solution was to put and insulating sleeve on the hard line and switch to a higher temp fluid. Seems all good now, but will consider GB's solution or fabricate my own.

hans14914

That must have been my issue. I guess I have Devek L3 on the GTS4... never measured them... just assumed they were the L2. I will have to pull my spare set out and see which version they are.

Thanks for the pictures.

I can tell you the starter ring gear definitely touches on the L3. That was the most challenging part to pass through.

simos

Gentlemen, is it possible for you to say wether those cylinder 3,4,7,8 bent pipes are close to same lenght as cylinders 1&5?
Alternatively, are they perhaps close the same lenght as cylinders 2&6? Talking about Devek L2 headers here.

Just wondering if it's worth of modifying my MSDS headers similar to Devek L2 to get pulse tuning working more even than with original MSDS.
I have already replaced straight collectors with conical style but would like to make some pipemax maths to see if I can make the headers work with current cam setup.

The Intake valve opening and exhaust valve closing points are the most important events to get most out of header pulse tuning.
If I can go even close to needed rpm range by modifying MSDS header primaries, that should be worth of all the work, I hope.

Simo

atb

I think there's a strange parallax thing happening when you view the bell housing cover from directly underneath. Here's mine, and it looks like there is plenty of clearance:



But when you get a horizontal perspective, you can see the lower primaries come under the outer portion of the BH cover. The good news is that I didn't have any trouble getting all of the lower bell housing bolts in.

AO

BFH?

And now that I think about it, I don't think I've installed or removed a clutch with these installed. But frankly, I can't remember.