Automatic Transmission Lever Stuck in Gear
08-03-2015, 03:23 PM
#46
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Grab the filter service kit from any of our great vendors, and get the washers in the kit. The sump bolts and the two drain plugs MUST be tightened using a torque wrench, typically requires a 1/4"-drive calibrated in lbs/inch to get a meaningful reading on the sump bolts.
The oil dripping from the starter housing can come from a number of places. Most popular is the rear drain port at the rear of the engine valley. Any oil that leaks from the filler neck or vapor hoses under the intake will dind its way to the rear cavity and head down to the lowest point. If you remove the air filter housing completely (top and bottom sections) you can see the rear V area under the throttle linkage and the airflow sensor (where the air cleaner connects in the middle). If the car has not had a full "intake refresh", these are almost 30-year old hoses under the intake, and they are overdue for replacement. There's a slew of other WYAIT stuff with that project, including cam cover gaskets and seals, crank position senso, knock sensors, Hall sensor just behind passenger side cam drive gear, new or cleaned injectors wth new seals, and more.
The least popular source for that particular oil is a leaking rear main seal on the engine.
Some other possible sources are solved when the full intake refresh is done.
----
Taking pictures of something in the car? Take a detailed shot as you did, but add another wider/further back shot so we can see where the parts are on the car.
The oil dripping from the starter housing can come from a number of places. Most popular is the rear drain port at the rear of the engine valley. Any oil that leaks from the filler neck or vapor hoses under the intake will dind its way to the rear cavity and head down to the lowest point. If you remove the air filter housing completely (top and bottom sections) you can see the rear V area under the throttle linkage and the airflow sensor (where the air cleaner connects in the middle). If the car has not had a full "intake refresh", these are almost 30-year old hoses under the intake, and they are overdue for replacement. There's a slew of other WYAIT stuff with that project, including cam cover gaskets and seals, crank position senso, knock sensors, Hall sensor just behind passenger side cam drive gear, new or cleaned injectors wth new seals, and more.
The least popular source for that particular oil is a leaking rear main seal on the engine.
Some other possible sources are solved when the full intake refresh is done.
----
Taking pictures of something in the car? Take a detailed shot as you did, but add another wider/further back shot so we can see where the parts are on the car.
08-04-2015, 11:17 AM
#47
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Torque on transmission pan nuts...
Am I reading that PDF correctly? Only 7 Nm of torque on those bolts? That converts to just over 5 pound feet of torque. I bought a torque wrench last night but I'm not sure it goes that low! Also, is there a specific pattern I need to tighten the bolts in? My father was saying there is normally a specific pattern by which you re torque the bolts.
08-04-2015, 02:14 PM
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Oil change...
Also, I was reading this thread about fluids and I feel more confused then ever!
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-and-gts.html
I bought Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic HDEO 5W-40
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-and-gts.html
I bought Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic HDEO 5W-40
08-04-2015, 05:17 PM
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Am I reading that PDF correctly? Only 7 Nm of torque on those bolts? That converts to just over 5 pound feet of torque. I bought a torque wrench last night but I'm not sure it goes that low! Also, is there a specific pattern I need to tighten the bolts in? My father was saying there is normally a specific pattern by which you re torque the bolts.
Also, I was reading this thread about fluids and I feel more confused then ever!
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-and-gts.html
I bought Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic HDEO 5W-40
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-and-gts.html
I bought Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic HDEO 5W-40
That 5W-40 is good for your late Toyota, but way too thin for the 928. Look for 20W-50, 15W-50, 15W-40 in decreasing order of preference. Without trying to reignite an always-smoldering flame war on which brand of oil is best, I'll share that my car has had Mobil-1 15W-50 synthetic in it since it first landed in my garage almost twenty years ago. I buy 2 of the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart for about $25/ea, and use almost 9 of those quarts for an oil change. Rest goes into quart bottles to feed the lawnmower and pressure-washer's oil change habits.
Your automatic transmission needs a good Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Almost any name-brand fluid will be OK. If you have a heavy foot, consider one of the better hi-perf Dexron versions. I used Mobil-1 synthetic Dexron ATF a couple times, but the shifts were a little firmer than I like so I went back to Castrol Dexron ATF in the green bottle. My little ATF hand pump screws right on to the top of the gallon bottles. I'm on a 15-20k ATF swap schedule, works out to every three-four years or every other brake fluid flush. Power steering fluid and filter get the same schedule as the transmission.
08-04-2015, 05:49 PM
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That is indeed correct, and specifically why I said you'd need an inch/lb-capable torque wrench. 5 lbs/ft = 60 inch/lbs on the 1/4"-drive small-numbers torque wrench. Way too many folks use the he-man method; unfortunately, "that's not goin' anywhere!" tight is easily enough to warp the trans pan thanks to that thick soft gasket. I recommend that you use your fingers on the socket to carefully draw the pan up so the gasket just touches the bottom of the transmission, then alternate the turns slowly as you sneak up on the target torque number, using a diagonal pattern similar to what you'd use on wheel lugnuts. The $olution to a warped pan is not inexpensive... Much higher than the cost of a little 1/4-inch drive click-style torque wrench that's for sure!
That 5W-40 is good for your late Toyota, but way too thin for the 928. Look for 20W-50, 15W-50, 15W-40 in decreasing order of preference. Without trying to reignite an always-smoldering flame war on which brand of oil is best, I'll share that my car has had Mobil-1 15W-50 synthetic in it since it first landed in my garage almost twenty years ago. I buy 2 of the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart for about $25/ea, and use almost 9 of those quarts for an oil change. Rest goes into quart bottles to feed the lawnmower and pressure-washer's oil change habits.
Your automatic transmission needs a good Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Almost any name-brand fluid will be OK. If you have a heavy foot, consider one of the better hi-perf Dexron versions. I used Mobil-1 synthetic Dexron ATF a couple times, but the shifts were a little firmer than I like so I went back to Castrol Dexron ATF in the green bottle. My little ATF hand pump screws right on to the top of the gallon bottles. I'm on a 15-20k ATF swap schedule, works out to every three-four years or every other brake fluid flush. Power steering fluid and filter get the same schedule as the transmission.
That 5W-40 is good for your late Toyota, but way too thin for the 928. Look for 20W-50, 15W-50, 15W-40 in decreasing order of preference. Without trying to reignite an always-smoldering flame war on which brand of oil is best, I'll share that my car has had Mobil-1 15W-50 synthetic in it since it first landed in my garage almost twenty years ago. I buy 2 of the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart for about $25/ea, and use almost 9 of those quarts for an oil change. Rest goes into quart bottles to feed the lawnmower and pressure-washer's oil change habits.
Your automatic transmission needs a good Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Almost any name-brand fluid will be OK. If you have a heavy foot, consider one of the better hi-perf Dexron versions. I used Mobil-1 synthetic Dexron ATF a couple times, but the shifts were a little firmer than I like so I went back to Castrol Dexron ATF in the green bottle. My little ATF hand pump screws right on to the top of the gallon bottles. I'm on a 15-20k ATF swap schedule, works out to every three-four years or every other brake fluid flush. Power steering fluid and filter get the same schedule as the transmission.
08-04-2015, 06:04 PM
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The first number in the oil rating is the equivalent cold flow viscosity. The second number is the equivalent higher-temp film strength. Meanwhile, the real world experience suggests that the 5W-40 doesn't maintain hot idle oil pressure well enough.
My Honda Pilot needs 0W-20 per the manual. I stretch that to 5W-30 for hotter driving conditions. They depend on the lower friction to help with their fuel economy numbers. I want the extra film strength, and would use 5W-40 if it was as easily available. But 0W- and 5W- come in just north of water as far as viscosity, great in an engine with tighter manufacturing tolerances and smaller bearings. A 90º day and after a hard high-speed run in the 928, folks with the thinner oil find that the gauge is fluttering near zero and the oil pressure light is on at the bottom of the off-ramp.
As a last resort, look at what your Owner's Manual recommends.
My Honda Pilot needs 0W-20 per the manual. I stretch that to 5W-30 for hotter driving conditions. They depend on the lower friction to help with their fuel economy numbers. I want the extra film strength, and would use 5W-40 if it was as easily available. But 0W- and 5W- come in just north of water as far as viscosity, great in an engine with tighter manufacturing tolerances and smaller bearings. A 90º day and after a hard high-speed run in the 928, folks with the thinner oil find that the gauge is fluttering near zero and the oil pressure light is on at the bottom of the off-ramp.
As a last resort, look at what your Owner's Manual recommends.
08-06-2015, 11:23 AM
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I went to do my oil change last night and call me crazy but I couldn't get the drain plug off. It wouldn't even budge. I'm sure I'm turning the right way. Why would someone torque it so high? I'm sure the factory doesn't call for that. Any helpful tips!?
08-06-2015, 11:54 AM
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6-pt socket and a long handle, one hard rap on the end to break it loose.
On installation, there's an aluminum seal ring between the drain plug and the sump. I'll speculate that yours is missing, and someone decided to just keep tightening until the dripping slowed down some. Some have reported needing an impact gun to get the drain plug loose, and more than a few have been researching thread repairs in the sump itself after an episode of overtightening. There's a Latin phrase for this, I think it's "Cavity Empty", referring to the craneal stuffing of the perp I'm thinking.
Since the sump and the drain plug and the seal are all aluminum pieces, I've decided to use Teflon-based thread sealing paste (white tube by Oakley, in the plumbing section at Home Depot) on the plug threads and the sealing faces of the plug, seal and sump. Then tighten the plug to about half the factory spec of 37(!!)lbs/ft. With the sealant, Twenty is Plenty. There are several threads on this with similar recommendatons on the block drains for the coolant galleys.
On installation, there's an aluminum seal ring between the drain plug and the sump. I'll speculate that yours is missing, and someone decided to just keep tightening until the dripping slowed down some. Some have reported needing an impact gun to get the drain plug loose, and more than a few have been researching thread repairs in the sump itself after an episode of overtightening. There's a Latin phrase for this, I think it's "Cavity Empty", referring to the craneal stuffing of the perp I'm thinking.
Since the sump and the drain plug and the seal are all aluminum pieces, I've decided to use Teflon-based thread sealing paste (white tube by Oakley, in the plumbing section at Home Depot) on the plug threads and the sealing faces of the plug, seal and sump. Then tighten the plug to about half the factory spec of 37(!!)lbs/ft. With the sealant, Twenty is Plenty. There are several threads on this with similar recommendatons on the block drains for the coolant galleys.
08-06-2015, 12:03 PM
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6-pt socket and a long handle, one hard rap on the end to break it loose.
On installation, there's an aluminum seal ring between the drain plug and the sump. I'll speculate that yours is missing, and someone decided to just keep tightening until the dripping slowed down some. Some have reported needing an impact gun to get the drain plug loose, and more than a few have been researching thread repairs in the sump itself after an episode of overtightening. There's a Latin phrase for this, I think it's "Cavity Empty", referring to the craneal stuffing of the perp I'm thinking.
Since the sump and the drain plug and the seal are all aluminum pieces, I've decided to use Teflon-based thread sealing paste (white tube by Oakley, in the plumbing section at Home Depot) on the plug threads and the sealing faces of the plug, seal and sump. Then tighten the plug to about half the factory spec of 37(!!)lbs/ft. With the sealant, Twenty is Plenty. There are several threads on this with similar recommendatons on the block drains for the coolant galleys.
On installation, there's an aluminum seal ring between the drain plug and the sump. I'll speculate that yours is missing, and someone decided to just keep tightening until the dripping slowed down some. Some have reported needing an impact gun to get the drain plug loose, and more than a few have been researching thread repairs in the sump itself after an episode of overtightening. There's a Latin phrase for this, I think it's "Cavity Empty", referring to the craneal stuffing of the perp I'm thinking.
Since the sump and the drain plug and the seal are all aluminum pieces, I've decided to use Teflon-based thread sealing paste (white tube by Oakley, in the plumbing section at Home Depot) on the plug threads and the sealing faces of the plug, seal and sump. Then tighten the plug to about half the factory spec of 37(!!)lbs/ft. With the sealant, Twenty is Plenty. There are several threads on this with similar recommendatons on the block drains for the coolant galleys.
08-06-2015, 12:38 PM
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I applaud your caution.
A set of cheap impact sockets from Harbor Freight will give you 6pt sockets, handy for a slew of otherwise-tough disassembly tasks. Same store also sells a long- or extending-handle ratchet. Get the 1/2"-drive sockets and the extending-handle (to about 20") ratchet for your collection, and no more "small-handle with a cheater wrench wrapped around it". The larger handle has much less flex, transmitting your initial hard jerk or rap on the handle directly to the fastener. The hard 6pt sockets maen much less chance of rounding the plug hex. You'll be impressed with how easily it comes out once you have the right tools. Those tools will save you when you get to pulliung the coolant galley drain plugs in the block, the upper inner control shaft nuts when you change front shock absorbers, differential plugs, suspension parts, etc. I do almost all work with smaller tools, but when there's something bigger than 8mm threads, bigger tools make the jobs a whole lot easier.
A set of cheap impact sockets from Harbor Freight will give you 6pt sockets, handy for a slew of otherwise-tough disassembly tasks. Same store also sells a long- or extending-handle ratchet. Get the 1/2"-drive sockets and the extending-handle (to about 20") ratchet for your collection, and no more "small-handle with a cheater wrench wrapped around it". The larger handle has much less flex, transmitting your initial hard jerk or rap on the handle directly to the fastener. The hard 6pt sockets maen much less chance of rounding the plug hex. You'll be impressed with how easily it comes out once you have the right tools. Those tools will save you when you get to pulliung the coolant galley drain plugs in the block, the upper inner control shaft nuts when you change front shock absorbers, differential plugs, suspension parts, etc. I do almost all work with smaller tools, but when there's something bigger than 8mm threads, bigger tools make the jobs a whole lot easier.
08-06-2015, 12:44 PM
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I applaud your caution.
A set of cheap impact sockets from Harbor Freight will give you 6pt sockets, handy for a slew of otherwise-tough disassembly tasks. Same store also sells a long- or extending-handle ratchet. Get the 1/2"-drive sockets and the extending-handle (to about 20") ratchet for your collection, and no more "small-handle with a cheater wrench wrapped around it". The larger handle has much less flex, transmitting your initial hard jerk or rap on the handle directly to the fastener. The hard 6pt sockets maen much less chance of rounding the plug hex. You'll be impressed with how easily it comes out once you have the right tools. Those tools will save you when you get to pulliung the coolant galley drain plugs in the block, the upper inner control shaft nuts when you change front shock absorbers, differential plugs, suspension parts, etc. I do almost all work with smaller tools, but when there's something bigger than 8mm threads, bigger tools make the jobs a whole lot easier.
A set of cheap impact sockets from Harbor Freight will give you 6pt sockets, handy for a slew of otherwise-tough disassembly tasks. Same store also sells a long- or extending-handle ratchet. Get the 1/2"-drive sockets and the extending-handle (to about 20") ratchet for your collection, and no more "small-handle with a cheater wrench wrapped around it". The larger handle has much less flex, transmitting your initial hard jerk or rap on the handle directly to the fastener. The hard 6pt sockets maen much less chance of rounding the plug hex. You'll be impressed with how easily it comes out once you have the right tools. Those tools will save you when you get to pulliung the coolant galley drain plugs in the block, the upper inner control shaft nuts when you change front shock absorbers, differential plugs, suspension parts, etc. I do almost all work with smaller tools, but when there's something bigger than 8mm threads, bigger tools make the jobs a whole lot easier.
08-06-2015, 01:45 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to help me with that. I've already been by Harbor Freight a couple times and I need to return something so I'll swing by tonight and pick up the impact sockets. Is there enough clearance down there to get at the plug with something that long? I had trouble last night when I got out my 3/8 inch socket wrench with a 5/8'' socket running into the oil filter.
The oil pan plug is well clear of the oil filter. Are you sure you are on the right place?
And... Get the standard impact socket set, not the deep ones for this.
And... The plug is 15mm hex, NOT 5/8". Using the right metric tools will help a lot.
And a reminder of some basic wrench etiquette -- ALWAYS pull on a wrench if you possibly can, raher than pushing. Saves knuckle skin at minimum, broken fingers too. So loosening (counterclockwise) the oil drain plug would have you pulling down or towards the rear with the wrench handle sticking forward or down from the plug itself, well away from the oil filter. I'm not near the car or I'd pop a picture for you.
If this tangent goes to more posts, start a new thread since it's way different from your transmission shift problem in the subject header. We can get one of the mods to move these posts to your new thread.
08-06-2015, 04:26 PM
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?????
The oil pan plug is well clear of the oil filter. Are you sure you are on the right place?
And... Get the standard impact socket set, not the deep ones for this.
And... The plug is 15mm hex, NOT 5/8". Using the right metric tools will help a lot.
And a reminder of some basic wrench etiquette -- ALWAYS pull on a wrench if you possibly can, raher than pushing. Saves knuckle skin at minimum, broken fingers too. So loosening (counterclockwise) the oil drain plug would have you pulling down or towards the rear with the wrench handle sticking forward or down from the plug itself, well away from the oil filter. I'm not near the car or I'd pop a picture for you.
If this tangent goes to more posts, start a new thread since it's way different from your transmission shift problem in the subject header. We can get one of the mods to move these posts to your new thread.
The oil pan plug is well clear of the oil filter. Are you sure you are on the right place?
And... Get the standard impact socket set, not the deep ones for this.
And... The plug is 15mm hex, NOT 5/8". Using the right metric tools will help a lot.
And a reminder of some basic wrench etiquette -- ALWAYS pull on a wrench if you possibly can, raher than pushing. Saves knuckle skin at minimum, broken fingers too. So loosening (counterclockwise) the oil drain plug would have you pulling down or towards the rear with the wrench handle sticking forward or down from the plug itself, well away from the oil filter. I'm not near the car or I'd pop a picture for you.
If this tangent goes to more posts, start a new thread since it's way different from your transmission shift problem in the subject header. We can get one of the mods to move these posts to your new thread.
I am sure (99%) I am in the right place. The drain plug is adjacent to the oil filter on the bottom, driver's side of the oil pan. I'm not sure why I was having clearance issues but my socket was bumping into the filter. Also, I know the head is 15mm but my 15mm socket was a 3/8 drive so I was trying to get more torque from my 1/2 drive but I only had a standard set of sockets for a 1/2 drive (I know, I know not a good idea). I'll swing by Harbor Freight tonight to get the impact sockets (not the deep ones) and follow up if I'm able to get the drain plug off.
08-06-2015, 05:05 PM
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