MainePorsche

By location, and red color if I'm right, that's ATF/PS fluid leak.

MainePorsche

By location, and color if I'm right, that is red ATF/PS fluid leak.

dr bob

The heat shield needs a little help to give you access to the shift vable routing. One o my pictures above shows the heat shields moved to "cable extraction" position.

Once you remove that wire clip at the transmission lever. you'll use a large screwdriver to pry the cup off the ball. A sharp twist of the screwdriver is usually enough, so the twisting pushes out on the cup side away from the arm.

Not sure why you took the whole console out...

Follow the falling oil straight upwards to see where it's dripping from.

If the little linkage and ribbed bellows is the one on the forward face of the rear crossmember, that's where the parking brake cable splits force to the two rear wheels.

MainePorsche

See Dwayne's write up for things to do with the center console out. Checking HVAC vacuum solenoid status and changing out comb flap and foot well diaphragms come to mind. http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...0Procedure.htm

The interior temp sensor is not cap replacement. It is involved with removing/replacing the unit. You can perhaps cover the chipped cap with one of these. http://www.jageng.com/garage9/index....526cd278dc947f

carnahanbb

Thanks! Those are good ideas. I thought on some old thread I read I saw someone buy a factory interior temperature sensor cover / sleeve? I hope I don't have to just stick on a plastic cover over it. I was thinking about sending the console, dash and pod to Robert at Classic 9 Leather since I've got some cracks in the pod and dash and the console isn't in great shape but I'd still have to find a solution for that temp sensor.

I just bought this car and I have to be able to drive it to the DMV so they can do a VIN check on it so I can license it. Is it safe to drive the car without the HVAC, stereo, etc not plugged in? I don't want to damage anything from an electrical standpoint. I need to get the shift linkage replaced so I can get the car moving again. Any thoughts on new versus used linkage? Also, random question, when you guys do your own fluid changes where do you dispose of used fluids?

carnahanbb

Ha! I took the console out because I couldn't quite figure out how to remove the trim around the shift lever and I thought I would also replace interior temperature sensor cover and maybe find a replacement or get a leather covered console from Classic 9 Leather. Also, I did want to ask once I have the c clip removed whether or not I needed to remove anything else before I pulled the linkage out or whether it'll come right out at that point?

I'll have to take some more pictures of everything. This is all pretty new to me!

MainePorsche

If your temperature sensor still works and has only a chip/crack on the cover, these little covers are a nice fix. They are aluminum and fulfill the need inconspicuously. http://www.jageng.com/garage9/produc...products_id=69

I would invest in a new linkage. I think of it as a wear item as it constantly is used. Would you buy a new or used cable for your brakes on a bicycle ? I thought so...

You can drive the car without the radio or HVAC controller plugged in. If car ran with an already existing vacuum leak it will run the same - being plugged in or not to the HVAC controller will make no difference. By default your air coming in will be warm.

Local shop guys that I am friendly with let me dump my waste fluids into their barrels.

carnahanbb

Cool that's good advice. For the money you really can't go wrong with that cover. Looks pretty factory to me. I suppose it makes more sense to put that money into a shift cable rather than a simple cosmetic item. I'm hoping to find somewhere to dump fluids as I'm guessing I can save a lot by doing basic fluid changes myself. Would you do transmission fluid and diff fluid at the same time? Would it be worth doing the transmission filter as well? I don't know if I want to have to drop the pan...that might be a little ambitious of me.

MainePorsche

I have one of those covers and they're great. Get one.
Now that you have the car up, and if you have the time, get it out of the way. Whenever you change the trans fluid fluid, you'll change the filter too. You'll also hand turn the engine clockwise so you can get the torque converter drain plug in it's window so you can drain that too. I've attached a pdf, and on page 1.6/1 are the torque values for the plugs, the pan, and the filter. Note the filter and pan are LOW torque. You should get a new pan gasket too. When attaching pan, key is to not have gasket 'lip' and to tighten up symmetrically.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...722_repair.pdf

dr bob

FWIW, when my cable gave up, 928 International had them on order but none on their shelf. Greg Brown was disassembling a customer car that had been crashed, and sold me the used cable from that one. Handily, he gave it to me complete from lever through cable, so it went right back in. That was several years ago and maybe 6k mile now, and no issues. When the new cable arrived a week later, I assembled it to the original shift lever and all, and it went to parts storage. Having it spared and ready means I'll never need it. I did put a nice coating of heavy grease on the installed piece so it won't wear; not sure why that wasn't a consideration when the car was built.

MainePorsche

And... don't forget new crush rings for the drain plugs.

carnahanbb

I found a new shift linkage from Pelican Parts...I searched for crush rings on there too but I don't think I'm finding the right items. I found rings for the engine oil drain plug but not for the transmission oil drain and fill plugs. What else would I call them? Do I need specialty rings for the differential oil drain and fill plugs as well? Do I need a specialty socket to drain the transmission fluid? What do I clean out my filler pump between use (diff versus trans fluid)? Gosh, that sounds like a lot of questions and I have quite a few more! Sorry about that I just want to make sure I do this right.

carnahanbb

I took a better picture of the area that is slowly leaking oil. Is that that starter? I also took a picture of what I am thinking is the smog pump. There is no belt attached so the PO must have made it inoperable. Is that going to hurt anything? Lastly, I took a picture of what Dr Bob thought may have been the emergency brake linkage. The rubber bellows are split and not in great shape. Brake seems to operate really well however.

ltoolio

If the last picture is from the rear axle, I think that's the parking brake cable.

Re: crush washers or anything else. Talk to Roger at 928srus.com. if you need it, and is available, he's got it.

dr bob

Grab the filter service kit from any of our great vendors, and get the washers in the kit. The sump bolts and the two drain plugs MUST be tightened using a torque wrench, typically requires a 1/4"-drive calibrated in lbs/inch to get a meaningful reading on the sump bolts.


The oil dripping from the starter housing can come from a number of places. Most popular is the rear drain port at the rear of the engine valley. Any oil that leaks from the filler neck or vapor hoses under the intake will dind its way to the rear cavity and head down to the lowest point. If you remove the air filter housing completely (top and bottom sections) you can see the rear V area under the throttle linkage and the airflow sensor (where the air cleaner connects in the middle). If the car has not had a full "intake refresh", these are almost 30-year old hoses under the intake, and they are overdue for replacement. There's a slew of other WYAIT stuff with that project, including cam cover gaskets and seals, crank position senso, knock sensors, Hall sensor just behind passenger side cam drive gear, new or cleaned injectors wth new seals, and more.

The least popular source for that particular oil is a leaking rear main seal on the engine.


Some other possible sources are solved when the full intake refresh is done.


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Taking pictures of something in the car? Take a detailed shot as you did, but add another wider/further back shot so we can see where the parts are on the car.