Automatic Transmission Lever Stuck in Gear
07-30-2015, 08:13 PM
#16
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Try removing the screw on each side near the aft end of the console along the carpet about near the level of the window switches (you may have to lower the seats a little). This may give you enough play to lift the console a little to give you a look. Do this and try shifting, and see if things are catching. Take a pic of those tubes too.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ear-shift.html
07-30-2015, 10:10 PM
#17
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Not yet, as I have described why in another recent post. I do have a suspicion though. I had changed the fluid. filter and gasket just prior to a trip to Prince Edward Island for my son to play spring/summer hockey. We crossed the border which was a few miles from the house, and I noted a few drips of ATF on the ground. There was an old fashion gas station with service, and the older guy put it on the lift. I don't use sealant on my ATF pan gasket, and it 'lipped' right by the reservoir. He took it down, reseated, and refilled. I then drove the 6 hours to PEI and for a few weeks after until the failure. I always had good fluid levels. When I took the unit down I noted gobs of orange sealant in the inside of the pan at the gasket. I bet the valve bodies are full of that **** and that is what caused the absolute sudden failure.
07-30-2015, 11:41 PM
#18
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I must have missed that thread. Sorry to make you relive that moment! I'm sure that wasn't a fun realization. Glad to hear things are back up and running great at the very least.
On a side note, I've been working to remove the top trim piece around the shift lever with the help of Dr Bob but with no luck so far. Maybe I'm not cut out for this after all! The levers both seem to move freely but nothing seems to budge in terms of the removal of the tamber piece.
BTW those clear tubes I was referencing earlier were nothing more than the clear plastic around the black vinyl piping on the carpet. I was just looking at the very end of the piping and there was some excess of the plastic that extended beyond the vinyl.
On a side note, I've been working to remove the top trim piece around the shift lever with the help of Dr Bob but with no luck so far. Maybe I'm not cut out for this after all! The levers both seem to move freely but nothing seems to budge in terms of the removal of the tamber piece.
BTW those clear tubes I was referencing earlier were nothing more than the clear plastic around the black vinyl piping on the carpet. I was just looking at the very end of the piping and there was some excess of the plastic that extended beyond the vinyl.
07-31-2015, 12:49 AM
#19
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Since I couldn't get the trim / tamber piece removed I slid under the car and located the aft end of the shift linkage where is connects to the transmission. I was thinking I could perhaps move it myself by hand back into park but it wouldn't move either. I hope it's just the shift linkage. Also, Dr Bob you mentioned that I should follow the work shop manual but I don't have them is there another source?
07-31-2015, 02:17 AM
#20
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Since I couldn't get the trim / tamber piece removed I slid under the car and located the aft end of the shift linkage where is connects to the transmission. I was thinking I could perhaps move it myself by hand back into park but it wouldn't move either. I hope it's just the shift linkage. Also, Dr Bob you mentioned that I should follow the work shop manual but I don't have them is there another source?
07-31-2015, 01:00 PM
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Also, when I owned my first 928 I had a full set of shop manuals. After I sold it I thought I'd never need them again so I sold the manuals too. Whoops. That was probably not a good idea.
07-31-2015, 01:02 PM
#22
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So at the rear endof the cable, the little ball-joint has a little hairpin clip that passes through a hole to make sure the cable doesn't pop off. Carafully remove and store that clip. The cable end of the balljoint can themn be gently pried off with a broad screwdriver. Once that's off, you can move the lever on the transmission to select any gear. Furthest to the rear is the "park" position, and there are detents you'll be able to feel as you move the lever.
While you are there, you should also be able to identify whether the cable will move with the inside lever, independent of what the transmission itself does. This was an early diagnostic step in my first post, looking to see what's actually stuck. Look for a bend in the metal tube that holds the flexible core of the cable straight, for instance, although a bend at the rear would typically limit youability to go towards L rather than towards P.
On the console trim: Once you are sure the two levers are disengaged, you'll need to move the gear lever in the car to mid position, lever straight up, so the ends of that accordian tamber section are clear of the ends of the trim panel.
I used the WSM procedure, along with guidance from Greg Nichols' Tips Page at this site
The best source forp manuals is probably Roger at 928srus (ROG100 here on Rennlist). he has a CD set that includes the manuals, plus a slew of other related support documentaion in PDF format. Paper copies of the out-of-print manual usually bring >$400 used, so the CD set with all the added manuals is a bargain.
While you are there, you should also be able to identify whether the cable will move with the inside lever, independent of what the transmission itself does. This was an early diagnostic step in my first post, looking to see what's actually stuck. Look for a bend in the metal tube that holds the flexible core of the cable straight, for instance, although a bend at the rear would typically limit youability to go towards L rather than towards P.
On the console trim: Once you are sure the two levers are disengaged, you'll need to move the gear lever in the car to mid position, lever straight up, so the ends of that accordian tamber section are clear of the ends of the trim panel.
I used the WSM procedure, along with guidance from Greg Nichols' Tips Page at this site
The best source forp manuals is probably Roger at 928srus (ROG100 here on Rennlist). he has a CD set that includes the manuals, plus a slew of other related support documentaion in PDF format. Paper copies of the out-of-print manual usually bring >$400 used, so the CD set with all the added manuals is a bargain.
07-31-2015, 01:13 PM
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So at the rear endof the cable, the little ball-joint has a little hairpin clip that passes through a hole to make sure the cable doesn't pop off. Carafully remove and store that clip. The cable end of the balljoint can themn be gently pried off with a broad screwdriver. Once that's off, you can move the lever on the transmission to select any gear. Furthest to the rear is the "park" position, and there are detents you'll be able to feel as you move the lever.
While you are there, you should also be able to identify whether the cable will move with the inside lever, independent of what the transmission itself does. This was an early diagnostic step in my first post, looking to see what's actually stuck. Look for a bend in the metal tube that holds the flexible core of the cable straight, for instance, although a bend at the rear would typically limit youability to go towards L rather than towards P.
On the console trim: Once you are sure the two levers are disengaged, you'll need to move the gear lever in the car to mid position, lever straight up, so the ends of that accordian tamber section are clear of the ends of the trim panel.
I used the WSM procedure, along with guidance from Greg Nichols' Tips Page at this site
The best source forp manuals is probably Roger at 928srus (ROG100 here on Rennlist). he has a CD set that includes the manuals, plus a slew of other related support documentaion in PDF format. Paper copies of the out-of-print manual usually bring >$400 used, so the CD set with all the added manuals is a bargain.
While you are there, you should also be able to identify whether the cable will move with the inside lever, independent of what the transmission itself does. This was an early diagnostic step in my first post, looking to see what's actually stuck. Look for a bend in the metal tube that holds the flexible core of the cable straight, for instance, although a bend at the rear would typically limit youability to go towards L rather than towards P.
On the console trim: Once you are sure the two levers are disengaged, you'll need to move the gear lever in the car to mid position, lever straight up, so the ends of that accordian tamber section are clear of the ends of the trim panel.
I used the WSM procedure, along with guidance from Greg Nichols' Tips Page at this site
The best source forp manuals is probably Roger at 928srus (ROG100 here on Rennlist). he has a CD set that includes the manuals, plus a slew of other related support documentaion in PDF format. Paper copies of the out-of-print manual usually bring >$400 used, so the CD set with all the added manuals is a bargain.
07-31-2015, 02:25 PM
#24
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The little clip has a hoop that wraps around the cable end ball connector. Push it around the connector, and than you can slide the little straight pin section out of the ball connector. Take a picture or two as you do this so you can get it back togehre correctly, if you h any doubts about remembering later.
Once that connector is popped off the ball, you should be able to manipulate the transmission lever fairly easily with your hand.
If you can't cycle it through the gears there, but can tne move the lever in the car, you've moved from "inconvenient, must replace cable!" to "this can't be good - transmission selector itself is locked up!". Drain the transmission, pull the pan, remove valve body and put it in a zip-loc, package oh so carefully, and ship it to Greg Brown for diagnosis/repair. Do not attempt to take the valve body apart or remove te shift barrel- let Greg do that so he can see exactly how it comes apart.
When I broke the cable a mile or so from the hilltop home, I was able to reach underneath and get the lever into neutral to start the car, then put it in gear from underneath with the engine running. Started the engine in neutral, moved lever to drive position without passing through reverse, since I was under the rear of the car and didn't want to receive a Darwin Award nomination for my efforts. Parking brake fully engaged of course, but still a little too exciting.
Once that connector is popped off the ball, you should be able to manipulate the transmission lever fairly easily with your hand.
If you can't cycle it through the gears there, but can tne move the lever in the car, you've moved from "inconvenient, must replace cable!" to "this can't be good - transmission selector itself is locked up!". Drain the transmission, pull the pan, remove valve body and put it in a zip-loc, package oh so carefully, and ship it to Greg Brown for diagnosis/repair. Do not attempt to take the valve body apart or remove te shift barrel- let Greg do that so he can see exactly how it comes apart.
When I broke the cable a mile or so from the hilltop home, I was able to reach underneath and get the lever into neutral to start the car, then put it in gear from underneath with the engine running. Started the engine in neutral, moved lever to drive position without passing through reverse, since I was under the rear of the car and didn't want to receive a Darwin Award nomination for my efforts. Parking brake fully engaged of course, but still a little too exciting.
07-31-2015, 04:43 PM
#25
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The little clip has a hoop that wraps around the cable end ball connector. Push it around the connector, and than you can slide the little straight pin section out of the ball connector. Take a picture or two as you do this so you can get it back togehre correctly, if you h any doubts about remembering later.
Once that connector is popped off the ball, you should be able to manipulate the transmission lever fairly easily with your hand.
If you can't cycle it through the gears there, but can tne move the lever in the car, you've moved from "inconvenient, must replace cable!" to "this can't be good - transmission selector itself is locked up!". Drain the transmission, pull the pan, remove valve body and put it in a zip-loc, package oh so carefully, and ship it to Greg Brown for diagnosis/repair. Do not attempt to take the valve body apart or remove te shift barrel- let Greg do that so he can see exactly how it comes apart.
When I broke the cable a mile or so from the hilltop home, I was able to reach underneath and get the lever into neutral to start the car, then put it in gear from underneath with the engine running. Started the engine in neutral, moved lever to drive position without passing through reverse, since I was under the rear of the car and didn't want to receive a Darwin Award nomination for my efforts. Parking brake fully engaged of course, but still a little too exciting.
Once that connector is popped off the ball, you should be able to manipulate the transmission lever fairly easily with your hand.
If you can't cycle it through the gears there, but can tne move the lever in the car, you've moved from "inconvenient, must replace cable!" to "this can't be good - transmission selector itself is locked up!". Drain the transmission, pull the pan, remove valve body and put it in a zip-loc, package oh so carefully, and ship it to Greg Brown for diagnosis/repair. Do not attempt to take the valve body apart or remove te shift barrel- let Greg do that so he can see exactly how it comes apart.
When I broke the cable a mile or so from the hilltop home, I was able to reach underneath and get the lever into neutral to start the car, then put it in gear from underneath with the engine running. Started the engine in neutral, moved lever to drive position without passing through reverse, since I was under the rear of the car and didn't want to receive a Darwin Award nomination for my efforts. Parking brake fully engaged of course, but still a little too exciting.
08-01-2015, 10:16 AM
#26
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Well, here I go! I've got the car on jack stands. Time to take a look. Random question...while the car is on jack stands should you work inside the car or stay out?
Last edited by carnahanbb; 08-03-2015 at 11:23 AM.
08-01-2015, 11:36 AM
#27
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If the stands are sufficient capacity (>3T) it's very safe to work on or under the car while it's on stands. That's pretty much what they are for.
The small (3T) stands commonly available have a footprint and height that allows about 175# of horizontal loading before you start thinking about overturning. That's stands at full height, feet on concrete. Unless you are wrestling the engine or trans with a couple helpers, you'll never get near that number.
Have fun!
The small (3T) stands commonly available have a footprint and height that allows about 175# of horizontal loading before you start thinking about overturning. That's stands at full height, feet on concrete. Unless you are wrestling the engine or trans with a couple helpers, you'll never get near that number.
Have fun!
08-01-2015, 06:22 PM
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Good news bad news!
Well, good news! It's just the shift linkage so that's good. One quick question. Once I have the c clip removed should the linkage just slide out? Do I need to remove the heat shield? I attached a picture of the area in front of the c clip around the heat shields. I'll order one today. Would you recommend a new one or used? It's $100 vs $250 in round numbers.
Also, I've got the center console taken out right now. What other preventative maintenance can I do? Clean up the contacts on the HVAC unit? I'd like to replace the interior temp sensor cover which is cracked and chipped. Where can I find on of those? I haven't had any luck finding one. I'm also thinking about draining the fluid in the transmission and replacing it while I'm under there. I'm just looking to kill as many birds with this one stone as possible.
Oh yeah, and it looks like I have a leak of some sort in the front of the car. I attached a picture. It's a 26 year old Porsche so I was pretty much expecting it. Gosh, one more thing...there was some type of cable running left to right across the car running right behind the cross member. The cable has a ribbed rubber shroud around it like the shift linkage. The rubber was split and in nasty shape. I can take a picture later tonight or tomorrow. Any idea what that is?
Also, I've got the center console taken out right now. What other preventative maintenance can I do? Clean up the contacts on the HVAC unit? I'd like to replace the interior temp sensor cover which is cracked and chipped. Where can I find on of those? I haven't had any luck finding one. I'm also thinking about draining the fluid in the transmission and replacing it while I'm under there. I'm just looking to kill as many birds with this one stone as possible.
Oh yeah, and it looks like I have a leak of some sort in the front of the car. I attached a picture. It's a 26 year old Porsche so I was pretty much expecting it. Gosh, one more thing...there was some type of cable running left to right across the car running right behind the cross member. The cable has a ribbed rubber shroud around it like the shift linkage. The rubber was split and in nasty shape. I can take a picture later tonight or tomorrow. Any idea what that is?
Last edited by carnahanbb; 08-03-2015 at 11:23 AM.
08-01-2015, 06:48 PM
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Check 928 International, they might have a used one.