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Got my replacements today from Roger, and I've been doing a bit (well, a lot) of searching/reading here on RL. It appears that I can just rotate the engine CW to get the bolt visible through the inspection hole, remove, replace and re-torque.
But, I'm not feeling confident enough in my knowledge of what other WIAAT work that I *should* be doing during the replacement, but I want to do this right.
I can't drop my exhaust due to some welding the PO did at the front of the car, so I might be limited there.
Finally - everything I've done on my car to this point has been low impact stuff, and this is my first foray into doing anything mechanical on the tranny....has me a bit scared to jump in....I've got replacements for the front ones as well, so could tackle those if it's the right thing to do and I don't break nerve.
Ryan ... This post, in the thread you linked to, gives an abbreviated summary of the procedure to follow, which includes making sure that the shaft hasn't crept forward; and if so, that you jemmy it back to allow the bolt to centre in the shaft groove at the rear.
Just replacing the rear bolt will be better than doing nothing, for sure, but it is preferable to ensure the shaft is in the correct position, and also replace the front ones.
Even if you can't get to the front ones, go ahead and remove the rear bolt; and if you find it is hard to rotate when loosened, and when you get it out you see red dust and marks on the shank and the thread, then it's likely the shaft has moved forward. Before you remove the bolt check what approximate torque it is (it will be interesting to see how loose it is).
Is there no way you can get the lower bell housing cover off to access the front? Are the rear bolts holding it on in position?
Dave -
Thanks much for the reply, and I'm not sure how I missed your walkthrough in that thread! Too much reading and not enough retaining.
One question back, in regards to rotating the shaft so I can see the bolt head (it's off by ~45 degrees currently) - do I need to rotate it in a certain direction (CCW or CW)?
I'll report back with the torque number and the front bellhousing info.
(Lurking...I have my bolts from Roger but I've been putting it off)
OK not quite lurking....I took a look at mine...I need to get the car in the air more than my jack and stands will currently allow...but I'm unclear how you know the shaft has crept forward. Purely because the bolt, once loosened, is still hard to turn? Or is there a position in the window that will tell you?
.... One question back, in regards to rotating the shaft so I can see the bolt head (it's off by ~45 degrees currently) - do I need to rotate it in a certain direction (CCW or CW)? ....
Depress the clutch pedal fully to disengage the TT from the motor, and have someone else hold it there, or held there using a piece of wood from the front of the seat frame. With the clutch pedal depressed and the gearbox in neutral it will allow you to turn the shaft either way, to line it up with the inspection opening without having to turn the motor or wheels, and will allow you to rotate it easily after you've removed the bolt to have a good look at everything.
following the advice above once the shaft is positioned so you can reach the bolt.
remove whatever you have holding the clutch pedal ,
thus the shaft wont turn and the tool wont slip when fully torquing the bolt
^^ What Stan said to lock in position you want it.
Also ... when you loosen the bolt, if the shaft hasn't moved forward and is aligned central with the groove, it should drop out once the male threads are disengaged from the female threads of the clamp. If the shaft has moved forward there will be resistance all the way when taking it out, red dust, damaged threads from winding it all the way out, and perhaps marks on the shank.
The only problem with just putting a new bolt in, if the shaft has moved forward, is that you are likely to damage the threads on the new bolt as you wind it in, past the partially obstructing groove edge.
I didn't have a 1/2" adapter for my torque wrench, so I couldn't get a reading on the bolt. It did take a bit of effort to come off, though. (not very scientific there).
So, unscrewed the bolt, and....it's catching the front lip of the inspection hole. I can't get it out because the head of the bolt is just hitting against the TT. Another couple of mm and it would be out.
I might be able to get it out if I rotated the shaft (clutch is stopping it ATM), but didn't want to do so in the event it would cause me problems.
So....am I looking at a big issue here? I considered trying to move the clamp more towards the rear of the car, but here too - didn't want to mess anything up.
Also - here's a couple of pics for the front bellhousing. The 1st one shows the welding on the muffler. All the securing bolts (6?) are still on.
Its like that on all of them, rotate the shaft a little to remove.
Just tried rotating the shaft to get the bolt head rotated towards the PS rear wheel a bit, and still no joy. The bolt continues to bump against the TT and I can't get it out.
Do I try to shimmy the clamp a bit towards the rear/trans to get a bit more clearance for the bolt head?
07-20-2015, 05:08 PM
Rear Pinch Bolt Replacement
