BC

As the story goes, he has "100s of emails" - but because I showed up once I found where he was, he just didn't respond. Dunno.

928cs

L37B is Taubenblau in German.
So Pigeon blue would be the correct translation.

But Baltic blue was also used as the same time.

This color was used for the 1989 and 1990 model-year.

BC

So my german didn't let me down!

Tom. M

It's still a dove ..

Pigeons and doves are both common names that cause confusion, as the rock dove is the same as a common pigeon, but there are many different species of doves.

BC

SO as an update, I was promised some parts past the set of wheels that were visible.

I went back today and picked up as much as he had that was labeled as going with the car.

This is what I found:


A thule Porsche 928 specific Roof Rack:



It also comes with some Attachments.

It came with this set of folded papers, which sort of promises to me this is the real thing (apart from the 928 part number on the boxes that say "Porsche" all over them)



I also have this nib looking Antenna:



A window Switch x 2 which I totall need (the ones in the car were replaced recently I can tell, so maybe this owner was one who had more than 1 928?)

BC

Some updates as I spend more time.

New plug wire set, new intake tubes. But cracked power steering lines. Belt job, but oil lines are seeping and look untouched.

Compressor looks newish but it's leaking.

Injection loom looks replaced.

Fuel lines original.

I have changed the oil. Could not tell what it was, but hot idle was low pressure, so I'm doing the obvious first. Three pin pressure sender plug is pretty buggered. Going to move to just two wires.

The pan gasket has been done, but not the motor mounts. so that will be interesting.

I have enough lower mile parts (compare with 180k) to nicely redo the front end.

Rack looks rebuilt. Has to be.

BC

Drove it around more, DD duty for a few days.

I remember now that the clutch take up on the Single disk units is a bit different. Less low speed modulation, etc. Seems heavier - the flywheel probably.

There is a vibration at above 3k, which has moved around a bit as I continued to drive the car.

I will take pics, I have verified that it was the front TT bearing that has moved forward. I will move it back into place and pin it. I will ready another rebuilt TT to put into the car. Maybe black sea, though I have many bearings and a few middle bushings as well.

In this process to move the bearing back, I made the ball cup bushing crumble. No problem, I have some of those. What I didn't have and I'd like to fix is the rear main seal. I'll take the clutch apart, inspect the center shaft, and regrease with optimoly where it needs to be.

I will take some pics, but a question I have (as I had not seen an S4 clutch for over 7 years, IIRC) is how far forward the collar is supposed to be?

The bolts holding the guide tube are so close to the collar, I would think there is only a few mm between them and the "spinning" collar.

Rob Edwards

That sounds right- you put the pinch bolt in the rear clamp hole first, then move the intermediate shaft to line up its groove with the front clamp hole. It's close to the guide tube bolts.

Vilhuer

All '89 MY GT's had '89 MY S4 manual. Since GT was invented in middle of model year first proper thick manual where it gets mentioned is '90 MY setup. Which was obviously too late for '89 MY cars. There should be separate addition included which has GT specific info. It was added to '89 GT's to provide info about them.

BC

That's what mine looks like!

It was very close. I was surprised by the allen bolts too.

Bearing was right up on the back of the collar.

BC

As I said... "Whew" Cool info Vilhuer. I will look for the separate addition.

Hilton

On all my manual S4's the clutch has been really heavy. On my '89 I fitted a complete new GTS clutch assembly (with the updated guide tube, release arm etc.) and its now very light. What i'm not sure is which part(s) made the biggest difference.

And yes, small clearance to the guide tube bolts.. here's the best pic I could find of the gap, from before I replaced the clutch on my '89.

BC

Oh man, that's exactly right. That's where mine is. Shocking after looking at s3 clutches and earlier for so long. Looks like something has moved!

But it's okay then - Good to know.

Gts clutch is somehow lighter? Or maybe just newer parts? I will take it all down for the rms and put it all back correctly. I will see how I feel then.

Edwards is going to get more facial tics if I keep on talking about replacing parts with non GT stuff. Lol

Hilton

Fitting a GTS clutch is actually a way of preserving the original clutch - you can store the original parts safely in the garage and they won't wear out, ready to go back on the car at a later date even cleaner and better lubed than before (btw - its possible to re-grease the release bearing without drilling holes etc. in it).

I think there are a few lower-friction points on the GTS clutch assembly - from memory the contact points for the release arm on the bearing have teflon on part of them, rather than metal to metal?

I also suspect that wear on the fingers might make the action heavier?

Have you checked the helper spring above the pedal to make sure its at the requisite 42mm? (number quoted from memory - don't have the WSM here at work).

Also - on those tiny M6 bolts holding the guide tube in place - I used some blue loctite on them, just to make sure they don't back out

BC

So the clutch is out. This is one area of Post 87 cars I had to relearn. Different clutch removal experience and I did not adapt to the new way until the 3rd day laying under the car (after work, maybe an hour each day).

Lots of burn marks on the flyhweel and pressure plate. Really heavy pieces. Seems like a lighter pressure plate could make huge differences.

I will take some pics and keep them all in this thread, but what I found:

1) Flywheel could have been replaced before. Not much wear physical dimension wise, but it does have hot spots. I will have it ground down and see where I am.

2) Will replace the Pilot bearing and RMS.

3) Pressure place has some finger wear, as well as hot spots on the pressure plate.
Can these be ground a bit?

4) Throw out bearing is turning fine, but there seems to be an internal sleeve that is plastic? And this plastic is cracked from what I can tell through the grease in the dark last night.


The big issue is the Torque tube bearing. As I had suspected, the bearing migrated forward to the collar. That was the vibration that occurs when the 4k rpm area comes around. When pushing it back, a plastic-like bushing (the bushing between the TT shaft itself and the ID of the bearing should be metal covered in thin rubber) came away from the ID of the bearing and stuck a bit to the shaft.

So depending, it looks like the shaft has really been hammering the bearing ID. I have pushed the plastic back into the space between the ID of the Bearing and the OD of the shaft, but its pretty well cracked.


I have a TT, and will be rebuilding it. But to get the GT back on the road (its in the driveway) I need to solve this partially. I hate partial solutions, but with the plan to do it right after the red car is done, its okay for now.

I have been doing this with light and a mirror as you all well know there is not a good way to see into the TT with everything but the clutch in there.

I am relatively sure this was the issue the guy was thinking he was selling the car cheaper with. Luckily its just not that big of a deal.