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S4 cam cover and hall sender

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Old 06-24-2015, 03:10 PM
  #31  
mark kibort
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what does the hall sender do anyway. will the car run without it?
Old 06-24-2015, 03:55 PM
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FredR
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
what does the hall sender do anyway. will the car run without it?
With 6 degrees of retard- same as a knock sensor failure
Old 06-24-2015, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FredR
With 6 degrees of retard- same as a knock sensor failure
Thanks!
Old 06-24-2015, 04:43 PM
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FredR
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Mark,

The Hall sensor plays a role in firing the ignition in that the voltage drops to zero and hey presto- I do not understand enough about it in detail as to how it actually works so cannot explain why the motor still fires when it fails- probably just relying on the CPS with some loss of accuracy in timing hence the 6 degrees retard. Doubtless someone like John Speake can define the action in specific detail.

Rgds
Old 06-28-2015, 04:07 PM
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mike77
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I've ended up cutting the rubber line to get the line over the cam cover off. Still something is preventing this cam cover coming out. Looks like the top bolt from the sensor is in the way allong with the last remaining bit of the air pump attached to the side of the engine.
Old 06-29-2015, 08:18 AM
  #36  
John Speake
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The Hall sensor has nothing to do with the timing of the ignition pulses.

A Hall sensor fault will usually not stop the engine running, although it will activate the 6deg retard that Fred mentions.

However the Hall sensor is fed from 5v from the EZK ECU. If that line was shorted at the Hall connector then could well prevent the EZK producing an output signal for the coils/amps.

Originally Posted by FredR
Mark,

The Hall sensor plays a role in firing the ignition in that the voltage drops to zero and hey presto- I do not understand enough about it in detail as to how it actually works so cannot explain why the motor still fires when it fails- probably just relying on the CPS with some loss of accuracy in timing hence the 6 degrees retard. Doubtless someone like John Speake can define the action in specific detail.

Rgds
Old 06-29-2015, 08:50 AM
  #37  
mike77
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John. Do you know if the plugs you sent me are compatible with the original plugs?

If i ever get the sensor out I'm thinking I may just change the plug on the sensor and not the one buried down the side of the engine.

Also do you sell replacement plugs for the fuel injectors?
Old 06-29-2015, 10:43 AM
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John Speake
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Yes to both questions.... send me an email of exactly how many of each type you need and I'll quote.

John


Originally Posted by mike77
John. Do you know if the plugs you sent me are compatible with the original plugs?

If i ever get the sensor out I'm thinking I may just change the plug on the sensor and not the one buried down the side of the engine.

Also do you sell replacement plugs for the fuel injectors?
Old 06-29-2015, 02:08 PM
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Hi Mike might be a bit late but better late than never. When ever i have problems with rounded off nut E.T.C. i use some Irwin 7LW locking wrench's .they are on E bay . I bought a set of three one of the best ways to grip rounded nuts .
Old 07-05-2015, 02:01 PM
  #40  
mike77
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Finally the cam cover is off! You need to remove the fuel pipe, engine lift bracket and the engine brace to be able to lift the cover out. There is a plastic tube under the cam cover that prevents you sliding it out and you can only lift it straight out. The engine lift bracket is difficult to reach, I got it from underneath with a couple of extensions and a universal joint. Once the cam cover is out of the way the hall sensor is exposed and you can easily get at it.










The third picture there shows the sensor and the two 4mm allen key bolts you need to get at.



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