S4 cam cover and hall sender
#34
Rennlist Member
Mark,
The Hall sensor plays a role in firing the ignition in that the voltage drops to zero and hey presto- I do not understand enough about it in detail as to how it actually works so cannot explain why the motor still fires when it fails- probably just relying on the CPS with some loss of accuracy in timing hence the 6 degrees retard. Doubtless someone like John Speake can define the action in specific detail.
Rgds
The Hall sensor plays a role in firing the ignition in that the voltage drops to zero and hey presto- I do not understand enough about it in detail as to how it actually works so cannot explain why the motor still fires when it fails- probably just relying on the CPS with some loss of accuracy in timing hence the 6 degrees retard. Doubtless someone like John Speake can define the action in specific detail.
Rgds
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
I've ended up cutting the rubber line to get the line over the cam cover off. Still something is preventing this cam cover coming out. Looks like the top bolt from the sensor is in the way allong with the last remaining bit of the air pump attached to the side of the engine.
#36
Rennlist Member
The Hall sensor has nothing to do with the timing of the ignition pulses.
A Hall sensor fault will usually not stop the engine running, although it will activate the 6deg retard that Fred mentions.
However the Hall sensor is fed from 5v from the EZK ECU. If that line was shorted at the Hall connector then could well prevent the EZK producing an output signal for the coils/amps.
A Hall sensor fault will usually not stop the engine running, although it will activate the 6deg retard that Fred mentions.
However the Hall sensor is fed from 5v from the EZK ECU. If that line was shorted at the Hall connector then could well prevent the EZK producing an output signal for the coils/amps.
Mark,
The Hall sensor plays a role in firing the ignition in that the voltage drops to zero and hey presto- I do not understand enough about it in detail as to how it actually works so cannot explain why the motor still fires when it fails- probably just relying on the CPS with some loss of accuracy in timing hence the 6 degrees retard. Doubtless someone like John Speake can define the action in specific detail.
Rgds
The Hall sensor plays a role in firing the ignition in that the voltage drops to zero and hey presto- I do not understand enough about it in detail as to how it actually works so cannot explain why the motor still fires when it fails- probably just relying on the CPS with some loss of accuracy in timing hence the 6 degrees retard. Doubtless someone like John Speake can define the action in specific detail.
Rgds
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
John. Do you know if the plugs you sent me are compatible with the original plugs?
If i ever get the sensor out I'm thinking I may just change the plug on the sensor and not the one buried down the side of the engine.
Also do you sell replacement plugs for the fuel injectors?
If i ever get the sensor out I'm thinking I may just change the plug on the sensor and not the one buried down the side of the engine.
Also do you sell replacement plugs for the fuel injectors?
#38
Rennlist Member
Yes to both questions.... send me an email of exactly how many of each type you need and I'll quote.
John
John
John. Do you know if the plugs you sent me are compatible with the original plugs?
If i ever get the sensor out I'm thinking I may just change the plug on the sensor and not the one buried down the side of the engine.
Also do you sell replacement plugs for the fuel injectors?
If i ever get the sensor out I'm thinking I may just change the plug on the sensor and not the one buried down the side of the engine.
Also do you sell replacement plugs for the fuel injectors?
#39
Hi Mike might be a bit late but better late than never. When ever i have problems with rounded off nut E.T.C. i use some Irwin 7LW locking wrench's .they are on E bay . I bought a set of three one of the best ways to grip rounded nuts .
#40
Pro
Thread Starter
Finally the cam cover is off! You need to remove the fuel pipe, engine lift bracket and the engine brace to be able to lift the cover out. There is a plastic tube under the cam cover that prevents you sliding it out and you can only lift it straight out. The engine lift bracket is difficult to reach, I got it from underneath with a couple of extensions and a universal joint. Once the cam cover is out of the way the hall sensor is exposed and you can easily get at it.
The third picture there shows the sensor and the two 4mm allen key bolts you need to get at.
The third picture there shows the sensor and the two 4mm allen key bolts you need to get at.