**SHARKS IN THE PARK XV** Tilden Park, Berkeley, CA: June 6, 2015
06-15-2015, 02:15 AM
#61
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06-15-2015, 09:58 PM
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06-16-2015, 02:58 PM
#63
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More folks are having fasteners replated to look like the original cadmium. Since cad is on the EPA sh!tlist as a suspected liver killer, zinc with a yellow chromate layer is often substituted. There are still some platers that will re-do the cad but they are getting harder to find. If you go the zinc and chromate route, plan on shooting a layer of protective clearcoat on the parts if you want the yellow to last. Needless to say, this is a LOT easier to pull off as part of some other engine-out cleaning or maintenance project.
Rob Edwards shared a bucket of newly-plated parts with me when we did the intake refresh and cam cover project on my car. I looked at the new pieces and at the old ones, and quickly decided that the only way it would ever look right was to replate/replace everything; putting only some new pieces on top made the remaining original pieces look even worse.
Meanwhile, remember that the plating is there as a sacrificial layer, protecting the underlying metal from the ravages of corrosion by corroding first. When you work in the engine bay, give careful thought to what chems you use and how you handle the plated parts. Almost anything that's even mildly acidic or salty will start working on the plated bits. Anything even slightly caustic will do a number on the aluminum. This includes the purple degreasers by the way. Consider yopur favorite car wash detergent for engine bay care, with some pH-neutral Dawn as a go-to for harder clean-up projects. There are some water-sensitive things in the engine bay like sensors and switches. Keep them covered, and a good hot-water pressure wash may be the safest option for keeping the metal looking good. For sure it's a weapon of choice when cleaning the undercarriage bits, assuming you don't have good steamcleaning capability available.
06-16-2015, 03:03 PM
#64
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More folks are having fasteners replated to look like the original cadmium. Since cad is on the EPA sh!tlist as a suspected liver killer, zinc with a yellow chromate layer is often substituted. There are still some platers that will re-do the cad but they are getting harder to find. If you go the zinc and chromate route, plan on shooting a layer of protective clearcoat on the parts if you want the yellow to last. Needless to say, this is a LOT easier to pull off as part of some other engine-out cleaning or maintenance project.
Rob Edwards shared a bucket of newly-plated parts with me when we did the intake refresh and cam cover project on my car. I looked at the new pieces and at the old ones, and quickly decided that the only way it would ever look right was to replate/replace everything; putting only some new pieces on top made the remaining original pieces look even worse.
Meanwhile, remember that the plating is there as a sacrificial layer, protecting the underlying metal from the ravages of corrosion by corroding first. When you work in the engine bay, give careful thought to what chems you use and how you handle the plated parts. Almost anything that's even mildly acidic or salty will start working on the plated bits. Anything even slightly caustic will do a number on the aluminum. This includes the purple degreasers by the way. Consider yopur favorite car wash detergent for engine bay care, with some pH-neutral Dawn as a go-to for harder clean-up projects. There are some water-sensitive things in the engine bay like sensors and switches. Keep them covered, and a good hot-water pressure wash may be the safest option for keeping the metal looking good. For sure it's a weapon of choice when cleaning the undercarriage bits, assuming you don't have good steamcleaning capability available.
Rob Edwards shared a bucket of newly-plated parts with me when we did the intake refresh and cam cover project on my car. I looked at the new pieces and at the old ones, and quickly decided that the only way it would ever look right was to replate/replace everything; putting only some new pieces on top made the remaining original pieces look even worse.
Meanwhile, remember that the plating is there as a sacrificial layer, protecting the underlying metal from the ravages of corrosion by corroding first. When you work in the engine bay, give careful thought to what chems you use and how you handle the plated parts. Almost anything that's even mildly acidic or salty will start working on the plated bits. Anything even slightly caustic will do a number on the aluminum. This includes the purple degreasers by the way. Consider yopur favorite car wash detergent for engine bay care, with some pH-neutral Dawn as a go-to for harder clean-up projects. There are some water-sensitive things in the engine bay like sensors and switches. Keep them covered, and a good hot-water pressure wash may be the safest option for keeping the metal looking good. For sure it's a weapon of choice when cleaning the undercarriage bits, assuming you don't have good steamcleaning capability available.
http://www.sanjoseautosteamcleaning.com/
$300 for a front to rear complete session of high pressure wet-steam attack.
06-16-2015, 08:25 PM
#65
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For those in NorCal:
http://www.sanjoseautosteamcleaning.com/
$300 for a front to rear complete session of high pressure wet-steam attack.
http://www.sanjoseautosteamcleaning.com/
$300 for a front to rear complete session of high pressure wet-steam attack.
They put the car up on a hoist, and do the underside as well.
06-16-2015, 09:31 PM
#66
More folks are having fasteners replated to look like the original cadmium. Since cad is on the EPA sh!tlist as a suspected liver killer, zinc with a yellow chromate layer is often substituted. There are still some platers that will re-do the cad but they are getting harder to find. If you go the zinc and chromate route, plan on shooting a layer of protective clearcoat on the parts if you want the yellow to last. Needless to say, this is a LOT easier to pull off as part of some other engine-out cleaning or maintenance project.
Rob Edwards shared a bucket of newly-plated parts with me when we did the intake refresh and cam cover project on my car. I looked at the new pieces and at the old ones, and quickly decided that the only way it would ever look right was to replate/replace everything; putting only some new pieces on top made the remaining original pieces look even worse.
Meanwhile, remember that the plating is there as a sacrificial layer, protecting the underlying metal from the ravages of corrosion by corroding first. When you work in the engine bay, give careful thought to what chems you use and how you handle the plated parts. Almost anything that's even mildly acidic or salty will start working on the plated bits. Anything even slightly caustic will do a number on the aluminum. This includes the purple degreasers by the way. Consider yopur favorite car wash detergent for engine bay care, with some pH-neutral Dawn as a go-to for harder clean-up projects. There are some water-sensitive things in the engine bay like sensors and switches. Keep them covered, and a good hot-water pressure wash may be the safest option for keeping the metal looking good. For sure it's a weapon of choice when cleaning the undercarriage bits, assuming you don't have good steamcleaning capability available.
Rob Edwards shared a bucket of newly-plated parts with me when we did the intake refresh and cam cover project on my car. I looked at the new pieces and at the old ones, and quickly decided that the only way it would ever look right was to replate/replace everything; putting only some new pieces on top made the remaining original pieces look even worse.
Meanwhile, remember that the plating is there as a sacrificial layer, protecting the underlying metal from the ravages of corrosion by corroding first. When you work in the engine bay, give careful thought to what chems you use and how you handle the plated parts. Almost anything that's even mildly acidic or salty will start working on the plated bits. Anything even slightly caustic will do a number on the aluminum. This includes the purple degreasers by the way. Consider yopur favorite car wash detergent for engine bay care, with some pH-neutral Dawn as a go-to for harder clean-up projects. There are some water-sensitive things in the engine bay like sensors and switches. Keep them covered, and a good hot-water pressure wash may be the safest option for keeping the metal looking good. For sure it's a weapon of choice when cleaning the undercarriage bits, assuming you don't have good steamcleaning capability available.
Yes, I kind of noticed, while looking at other cars here, that this is an "all in" or be careful what you do in your sprucing up job...since something really nice...will look out of place.
I'm fortunate to have access to a steam cleaner at work and I've touched up the bottom side and wheel wells (wheels off and inner panels) once already. But, would like to do it again and hit some stuff from a different angle and use a bit of simple green before hand to help loosen the hard stuff.
The more I think about it...this car may be just a little bit to far gone to make it a viable project. Maybe, I'll just make it as nice as possible, without breaking the bank, for a driver...and keep my eye open for a better canidate/project car.
Brian.
06-17-2015, 01:05 AM
#68
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For those in NorCal:
http://www.sanjoseautosteamcleaning.com/
$300 for a front to rear complete session of high pressure wet-steam attack.
http://www.sanjoseautosteamcleaning.com/
$300 for a front to rear complete session of high pressure wet-steam attack.
06-17-2015, 01:10 AM
#69
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There will come a day when I can baby it more, but it's always going to get wet and dirty.
06-19-2015, 09:44 PM
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Sorry I missed this event, I work in Berkeley. I'm playing the golf course at Tilden next week. Even mine was in pieces, it would have been great to meet a lot of you and get some advice on resurrecting my shark.
What's the word with another event in the fall?
What's the word with another event in the fall?
06-22-2015, 11:48 AM
#72
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I'm planning on going with one of my other cars. If you want the 928 there, I will have to bring it on a trailer as it's on a non op until I finish installing the supercharger system.
http://loanwebfast.com/green/images/58.gif
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http://loanwebfast.com/green/images/58.gif
http://insuranceautocars.com/insurance/images/37.gif
TROLL.
Andreas
06-26-2015, 09:20 PM
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07-06-2015, 02:18 PM
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