Upgrading US fog/driving lights to euro
#1
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Upgrading US fog/driving lights to euro
I picked up a set of euro driving / fox / turn signals and the frames from Mark Anderson.
While I should be putting the 87 back together, I got sidetracked and found myself working on the 79 instead. I figured the fog/driving light upgrade would be a quick easy swap out...nope.
Little did I know those housings are bolted in from behind. I always knew they were attached to the bumper cross-brace, I never paid attention to how they were attached (how often do you really remove these??).
So...any tricks to getting at the bolts that hold on the fog light? I can reach the four bolts for the driving light easy enough reaching up from the grill area.
It looks like I could possibly access that area if I take the headlight assembly apart or am I jacking up the car and taking off the fender liner?
2nd question - I want to scuff up and paint the frames. Any suggestions on brand of paint to use on this plastic? I have some SEM black used to fix the interior of my fathers 355. I figure that would work just as well here but I'm not a paint guy.
3rd question - are the fogs any different? They look relatively the same.....
While I should be putting the 87 back together, I got sidetracked and found myself working on the 79 instead. I figured the fog/driving light upgrade would be a quick easy swap out...nope.
Little did I know those housings are bolted in from behind. I always knew they were attached to the bumper cross-brace, I never paid attention to how they were attached (how often do you really remove these??).
So...any tricks to getting at the bolts that hold on the fog light? I can reach the four bolts for the driving light easy enough reaching up from the grill area.
It looks like I could possibly access that area if I take the headlight assembly apart or am I jacking up the car and taking off the fender liner?
2nd question - I want to scuff up and paint the frames. Any suggestions on brand of paint to use on this plastic? I have some SEM black used to fix the interior of my fathers 355. I figure that would work just as well here but I'm not a paint guy.
3rd question - are the fogs any different? They look relatively the same.....
#2
Rennlist Member
The only way to get at the outside lights is to take off the fender liner and the bottom cover of the bumper. You don't need to jack the car up, you just need to get on your back.
The fogs are exactly the same though. Same bulb, housing, and output. The real difference is the driving lights, those go from IIRC 20 watt bulbs to full 55 watt H3s
The fogs are exactly the same though. Same bulb, housing, and output. The real difference is the driving lights, those go from IIRC 20 watt bulbs to full 55 watt H3s
#3
Nordschleife Master
The only way to get at the outside lights is to take off the fender liner and the bottom cover of the bumper. You don't need to jack the car up, you just need to get on your back.
The fogs are exactly the same though. Same bulb, housing, and output. The real difference is the driving lights, those go from IIRC 20 watt bulbs to full 55 watt H3s
The fogs are exactly the same though. Same bulb, housing, and output. The real difference is the driving lights, those go from IIRC 20 watt bulbs to full 55 watt H3s
The fogs (outer) are different, somehow, as the lenses have a different P/N. I'm using US lenses for replacement on mine as the Euro lenses are hard to find.
#4
Nordschleife Master
You have to pull the fender liner & front piece. Well, really only the front piece, but I couldn't figure out how to take that off without pulling the fender liner.
Once that stuff is out of the way, it's actually pretty easy to get to.
Once that stuff is out of the way, it's actually pretty easy to get to.
#5
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Cool, this is good news. It looked like the fender liner was the way to go but wanted to be sure before I started taking the car apart.
Are the turn signals any different? They look the same....now would be a good time to go with LED's for these three lights... Ugh...now I have to re-read that thread. This is why my crap never gets done!!!!
I need to start a support group for car lovers with ADHD. Here I am screwing around with lights while sitting next to my 79 are two cars up on jack stands that need real work. Knowing me, I'll get half way done with this light upgrade and find myself pruning bushes or re-arranging my tool box, again
Hey Joe, case of beer if you drive-up here and do this for me .
On a different note, my sudden miss that was 90% fixed with a new green wire was totally fixed with a replacement ignition module. I've never had one of these that was intermittent before, but under WOT I could feel something was odd after 4,500rpm. I wonder if a faulty green wire somehow damaged the module.....
Thankfully I had three spare units.
Does anyone recall the place that repairs these?
#6
Rennlist Member
Yeah... I was thinking "this may not be fun." I know they mount to the bumper reinforcement and wasn't sure you can get to it with the cover on.
The fogs (outer) are different, somehow, as the lenses have a different P/N. I'm using US lenses for replacement on mine as the Euro lenses are hard to find.
The fogs (outer) are different, somehow, as the lenses have a different P/N. I'm using US lenses for replacement on mine as the Euro lenses are hard to find.
#7
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
Tried LED's (2 years ago) on the fog & dr lights and they did not trigger any warnings. I was expecting more light so I sent them back. Has anyone tried those Cree LED bulbs from Bizman ? T
#10
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Since I'm racking up dumb questions in this thread....what's the actual purpose of the driving lights? Assuming the Euro cars are wired the same as US cars, they stay on with low and high beams.
They appear to have aiming adjusters on them and I'm positive my tech has never worked on a set of these before. Anything special with how they should be aimed compared to the standard headlights?
#11
Rennlist Member
Notice the outer lights on the US appear smaller (side-side) and material is a plastic type mesh. The euro versions are of glass and same size as the inners and are much nicer IMHO. T
Last edited by 77tony; 04-19-2015 at 09:25 PM.
#12
Nordschleife Master
LOL - kind of like the clutch master: "Once you pull the motor"....
Cool, this is good news. It looked like the fender liner was the way to go but wanted to be sure before I started taking the car apart.
Are the turn signals any different? They look the same....
...Hey Joe, case of beer if you drive-up here and do this for me .
Cool, this is good news. It looked like the fender liner was the way to go but wanted to be sure before I started taking the car apart.
Are the turn signals any different? They look the same....
...Hey Joe, case of beer if you drive-up here and do this for me .
...what's the actual purpose of the driving lights? Assuming the Euro cars are wired the same as US cars, they stay on with low and high beams.
They appear to have aiming adjusters on them and I'm positive my tech has never worked on a set of these before. Anything special with how they should be aimed compared to the standard headlights?
They appear to have aiming adjusters on them and I'm positive my tech has never worked on a set of these before. Anything special with how they should be aimed compared to the standard headlights?
Maybe 6 or 8 bolts and/or screws on the main liner 4 or 5 more on the front piece.
A case of beer would be a pretty fair payment for the work involved, but I don't drink
Besides, I have to work this week.
And the Euro driving lights are very different from the US. They are pretty bright, and go on either with the "Flash to Pass" (Headlights on or off) or go on full time with the brights.
Aim them straight ahead, just like the high beams.
They are pretty potent. People will get the message when you flash them.
#13
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Reference for anyone doing this in the future, this bracket has to be removed:
#14
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
So I think there is some confusion in this thread on light functions.
As I understand it - ROW cars have Auxiliary High beams and Fog lights while USA cars have Fog lights and front Markers. The purpose of these lights and how they are switched are quite different.
Foglights:
USA: On with light switch position 1&2 (of 0-2) AND fog light switch is activated AND High beams are off AND ignition is on
ROW: On with light switch position 1&2 (of 0-2) AND fog light switch is activated AND ignition is on
Markers:
USA: On with light switch position 1&2 (of 0-2) (even with ignition off)
Auxiliary High Beams:
ROW: On whenever main high beams are on. e.g. Light switch position 2 (of 0-2) AND High bream selected AND ignition is on. Also responds to flash to pass even if headlights lights are off (pods down) - (even with ignition off).
Notes:
You cannot use simply Aux Highs in place of markers without changing the wiring configuration.
1) Wiring is not up to it
2) It's very wrong...
Except for flash to pass mode* - You MUST NOT have Aux high beams on at any time except when the main high beams are on. This would be like driving around with your high beam on all the time.
I believe the wiring for the Aux high beams makes it all the way to the fender connector even on USA cars. Fuse #2 feeds the aux highbeams in ROW cars (it is there unused on USA cars too).
Alan
As I understand it - ROW cars have Auxiliary High beams and Fog lights while USA cars have Fog lights and front Markers. The purpose of these lights and how they are switched are quite different.
Foglights:
USA: On with light switch position 1&2 (of 0-2) AND fog light switch is activated AND High beams are off AND ignition is on
ROW: On with light switch position 1&2 (of 0-2) AND fog light switch is activated AND ignition is on
Markers:
USA: On with light switch position 1&2 (of 0-2) (even with ignition off)
Auxiliary High Beams:
ROW: On whenever main high beams are on. e.g. Light switch position 2 (of 0-2) AND High bream selected AND ignition is on. Also responds to flash to pass even if headlights lights are off (pods down) - (even with ignition off).
Notes:
You cannot use simply Aux Highs in place of markers without changing the wiring configuration.
1) Wiring is not up to it
2) It's very wrong...
Except for flash to pass mode* - You MUST NOT have Aux high beams on at any time except when the main high beams are on. This would be like driving around with your high beam on all the time.
I believe the wiring for the Aux high beams makes it all the way to the fender connector even on USA cars. Fuse #2 feeds the aux highbeams in ROW cars (it is there unused on USA cars too).
Alan
#15
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Sorry for the confusion, I started a different thread to cover the wiring:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-take-2-a.html
My plan is to merge these once the project is complete.
IMO Fishing out the running light wires from my harness isn't worth the effort or butchering up the sheathing on my harness so I'm running a new set of wires to the fuse panel.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-take-2-a.html
My plan is to merge these once the project is complete.
IMO Fishing out the running light wires from my harness isn't worth the effort or butchering up the sheathing on my harness so I'm running a new set of wires to the fuse panel.