VanD

OK - started the fuel line refresh over the weekend, drained tank, fuel looked clean, no residue in bottom of tank, so new seal and good to go there...but when looking at lines from pump to second pump there was a splice and no pump. Accumulator very rusty, and lines from accumulator to Hard line going under car very rusty. The accumulator is located on brackets by rubber isolators which I am unable to get the nut off as they are turning in place.. The hard line was rusty as well and the @#$%$# hard line split at the ends. Looks like I'm in for running a new hard line from rear to front.
My questions are:


notice splice where second fuel pump should be

1) any ideas on getting the rubber isolators off the accumulator bracket other than angle grinding/cutting the heads off the bolts on the isolators (with gas residue i'm a little worried about sparks).
2) what size are the gas lines?
3) Is there a recommended kit for cutting/bending/flaring these lines ?
4) any chance in hell that there is someone manufacturing a "line kit" preformed?
5)Any sources for lines/ends/adaptors in stainless in correct size?





Accumulator with rubber isolators to brackets...how to get these off?

upstate bob

there's a refresh job I will have to do on my 79. Running good now but things like hoses and accumulators live on borrowed time. Question for the smart guys here: does the 79 have an in-the- tank pump?

Ad0911

I had these lines remanufactured by Pirtek. They made a work of art for very little money and a lot of enthousiasm. I'll see if I can post some pics soon.

VanD

Thanks, Ad0911, I looked them up and there is no Pirtek franchise near me - any idea if they have a 'hardcopy' or the the line they made for you that they could send to the closest Pirtek franchisee and I could get it made and shipped? Or did they just take your line and reproduce it bend for bend? Did they have new adaptors or re-use your old ones?

Ad0911

Hi VanD,
I like your cars interior!

The hard long hard line from fuel accumulator to engine was shortened and a flange put on that ends right under the the bracket for the rear suspension. I welded a piece of SS to protect it and keep it in place. See picture.
A flexible SS braided fuel line was made to connect to the fuel filter. A new high pressure flexible fuel line was made that runs from fuel pump (mounted in the rear in the cradle under the gas tank) to a new SS hard line (the one with all the curves was replicated exactly like the old one) that connects to the inlet on the fuel accumulator.
The long hard line is installed in the car. The rest is still waiting for the day... I could bring it to Pirtek and ask them to make another set, including the long flexible one that comes from the fuel pump to the curved hard line. I'll make pictures so I can show you what it's like.
To replicate these items, I think the connectors from the old long flexible line are needed. Especially the connector for the fuel tank.

GregBBRD

I make all three of the rear flexible high pressure hoses in a polyester covered Teflon lined material with high pressure crimped fittings. It's very proper and has a lifetime warranty. Being "uber hose" with "uber fittings", it not cheap ($450 for all three hoses), but you will never have to think about those hoses again.

I also make the fuel feed and return lines on the right side of the engine compartment, made from the same hose and fittings, but covered in a flame guard material, to help protect them from the exhaust manifold heat. These two hoses are $230, with the same lifetime warranty.

I think you will also need to source a new accumulator, by the looks of yours....

And yes, you should have an in tank pump. Those main pumps are not designed to "suck" fuel and need fuel to be delivered to them to properly function in all situations. Be aware that the fuel tank should have one millimeter smaller threads than the more common later model tank, which makes finding a replacement in tank pump/strainer more difficult.

VanD

Ad011 - that would be great if they could make that ! I would owe you big time! - I would certainly love to have the hard lines made - I would probably prefer having them make them in the original length as I'm not the greatest bracket maker...I'll get a new accumulator...please PM me with info if that is possible!

GregBBRD - I am making my own fuel lines (Jim Doerr style!) and re-using my connectors. I would probably buy yours if I didn't already purchase the HP hose and SS clamps and tools to make my own. There is definitely no in-tank pump - my car is a late '78 car (#1891 ROW) - looks like the '79 setup or has been modified at some point to a later tank - just a screen and outlet from tank to First Pump, second pump AWOL as noted in above pic.

Jadz928

I'd use Greg's fuel lines in the engine bay. Since it's where the engine heat is, his are the best way to go.
I plan to use them exclusively as soon as I have the bucks to place a healthy order.
I'll continue to use 9.5mm hose and Oetikers on the fuel tank end. With all the odd variation btw '78-79, a custom fit is the best solution for me.

GregBBRD

Certainly anything you do back there has to be better than what you currently have.

GregBBRD

Those original hoses were made for rubber hose and crimps/clamps, so rubber hose and Oetiker clamps is a reasonable alternative. Because the rubber hose shrinks and the current fuels have crazy additives, I choose to use only Teflon and crimps for fuel applications, these days....just to be super safe.

Genuine German 9.5mm hose seems very robust and seems very tolerant to today's fuels....some of the American sized hose seems to excessively shrink and the clamps are loose after only a few months.

In my hose business, I rarely will sell anyone traditional Aeroquip style hose and ends for fuel....especially if any type of "race fuel" is ever going to touch the hoses. I've pressure tested so many of those hoses that are only a couple of years old which leak like an old soaker hose that I can't even count them. I try to "convert" as many people as possible over to Teflon for their fuel applications.

I'm pretty convinced that when people are gone and cockroaches rule this planet, that they will be raising their babies inside Teflon hose.

VanD

I can't believe how unsafe the current setup was...will be contacting you for those front hoses, likely 2 sets (one for the Tartan car). Thanks for the input! Hopefully the hard lines will work out as well.

Ad0911

The area with the accumulator and fuel filter looked pretty much the same in my car. As explained before, I replaced all the brackets with home made SS stuff and had the lines replicated by Pirtek. All lines high pressure fuel lines. Here are some pictures taken with my smartphone, but they are not very good quality. It will give you an impression of how it looks now.

VanD

Wow, I wish I had the ability to fabricate like that - did you eliminate the second pump as well and just use the main HP pump off the tank?

Ad0911

I am sure can can do just the same. All I did is cut and bend some SS sheetmetal from scrap I got from the local metalshop (form the bin with left-overs) and have some pipes and tubes made by a local expert shop (Pirtek). Of course I consider myself lucky that I have all these facilities within 15 minutes of dryving, all around Rotterdam where there is a lot of industry because of the sea harbour.

Of course, building always starts with destroying! I could keep the important part of the round piece of metal behind the fuel accumulator. I took it out and after cleaning out the surroundings where it came from, I made a new piece of metal bracket to join the round piece with the car again.

If you look closely, you will see new brackets to hold the fuel line in the rear wheel arch. Just U shaped SS, with holes in it. Welded to the bodywork. The picture is looking up in the wheel arch.