linderpat

Denny - don't worry about the hard lines, but do replace all of the soft (rubber) fuel lines, especially the "U" shape line at the rear of the engine bay. Just inspect the hard lines. Obviously if any are cracked, then you will need to replace them.

depami

depami

How much of this can be reused?




Are these original?

depami

Against the advice of many, I'm tackling three jobs at once: Fuel Injection Harness, Intake/Cam Covers, T-Belt/W-Pump. I just have to know what's in there and I'm not putting in coolant to test run intake and then just draining it for WP. I have reason to believe that many parts in there are new and knowing may influence my order for intake parts so I'm going in now.

Even though there's no name, VIN or date, the PO was nice enough to give me this:


Locked at 45


Clocked at 45

depami

Anyone recognize this pump? Looks fairly new. Wonder if the impeller is metal or plastic.



Tensioner boot is still quite pliable. Be interesting to what insides look like.

depami

Is this how you use this? Does that mean it's a bit tight?


As per the above invoice, many of these parts have been replaced but I don't know when. I got the car in fall of 2005 so it was before that. I have no idea how may miles are on them as the ODO quit less than 100 miles after I got the car. I wouldn't think I put much more than 10 K on if that.

How many of these parts can be reused?















Does this even need to be opened?



Does this seal need replacing?



Input welcome, thanks.

WICruiser

I would contact Roger (928RUS) and get the "standard" timing belt replacement set of parts which will include a new water pump (metal impeller is not considered the bast anymore) and all the related rollers and pulleys. Your cam sprockets look OK to me but others may chime in. I would not dig any deeper or replace additional seals unless you have an indication of leakage, or a strong desire to do everything. If you are considering changing to the Porken tensioner this is the time.

depami

Thanks for the advice WICruiser.

I did get a quote from Roger and it's over $2 K for the front end and over $1 K for the top. Of course I'd like to keep it as low as possible so I'd like to reuse as much as possible.

Is there any way to identify the WP as new or rebuilt? If rebuilt, I'll replace. If new, I may reuse.

All the bearings look and feel new.

The tensioner will get rebuilt. And of course the belt will be replaced.

My biggest worry is the PS cam gear. Does it look usable?

bureau13

$2K seems steep for the standard TB/WP job, like >2x too steep. I'm guessing that's including a bunch of stuff that is not generally changed if not needed, e.g. cam gears, etc. I would expect something a bit under $1K. That's just from reading and some inquiries...the gigantic caveat is that I haven't done this job yet. Do you have a list of the parts comprising that $2K?

syoo8

What is going on with the coolant in the picture from the main crank?

The crank gear seems shot. Looks like someone previously changed the driver's side camshaft sprocket... the passenger side still has coating on it but it looks like you'll have to change either this time or next.

It looks clean around the oil pump, you're probably fine there.

You are using the Kempf tool properly. Yes, your picture shows that the belt is tightened too much. The alternative way is to use a guitar tuner and "pluck" the belt- it should sound like an E natural.

I defer to people with much more knowledge (and intelligence) than I on the board: I think most will tell you that you really should change the water pump, not reuse. Definitely buy a set of new water pump bolts, they are cheap. It is not the belt that fails... it is usually the water pump, which- if/when it seizes- will manifest itself as a shredded belt.



Good luck!

depami

Yea, the $2K list was quite extensive and included all gears, WP and PKtensioner. I've got it down to around $1K with WP and one cam gear.

Scott the coolant just ran down there when the WP came off. What seems the problem with crank gear?

What makes crank and oil pump gears good or bad?

syoo8

The crank gear looks textured to me from the picture... can you post a better picture so others can chime in?

depami

I think these gears are shot. What are they supposed to look like?

syoo8

Denny, before refurbishing the tensioner I recommend that you buy a jug of Evapo-Rust from HarborFreight and soak the Belleville washers in them. It will remove the oxidation without any effort.

WICruiser

I am not the gear expert by any means but they don't look bad to me in those pictures.

I believe the conventional wisdom is to change the water pump to the new design with the plastic impeller to avoid problems down the road with the impeller moving into the block.