Smitje 928

Hi Kevin,

Just got under my car and made these pics:





There are two attachment points: one in the center where it attaches to the floor of the body, and one on the right side near the bend in the line.

The brake line pops out of those attachment points, so no unscrewing or unbolting is required.

I will replace mine as well, luckily the lines and distributor were still available:



Good luck...!!!

Manfred

StratfordShark

I recently replaced short LHS hard line but needed those crow's feet mentioned (exhaust was in place).

A friend just replaced the longer RHS hard line on his SE, and tells me he had to drop rear exhaust, but then could thread it through over transmission without much difficulty.

kevinr

This is good info and good news. Thx guys.

Ad0911

I must admit that I did just that. Car on axle stands, transmission and suspension in place. Engine and exhaust not. This can be done. I used original Cohline hard lines from a BMW. Too long but no issue. Originals for 928 not available.

StratfordShark

That's interesting about availability. Must admit that when I needed the LHS rear line a month or so ago, a NOS one had just popped up on eBay and good price too. I suppose for someone handy with brake lines it would not be too difficult to copy the longer one when removed from car. The left hand one is only a few inches of line and one right angle!

Ad0911

I bought half of a NOS set from a BMW at the 2016 Techno Classica in Essen Germany from an english guy who specialises in brske lines. He warned me not to use copper lined because the ISO/DIN flaring is not meant to be made from copper lines. SAE double flaring is OK from copper but does not fit our system.

dr bob

Regular soft copper tubing has an issue with work-hardening and cracking, thanks to vibration. It also collapses pretty easily from any impact, and also from poor bending. The original lines are steel with copper and nickel to help limit corrosion. The lines themselves are fabulous, but the plated steel nuts will see a lifetime limited by the thickness of the plating and the amount of chemical abuse they see.

In my opinion, there's a very good case for using a good silicone grease (plumber's grease at the home store) on the outside of the tubing where the nut fits behind the flare prior to installation. If your installation technique allows it, some grease on the outside threads of the nut prior to installation would help keep the threads clean. The Teflon thread sealing paste might be good option here too. Want to keep the line itself looking (and lasting...) new for a longer time? A careful spray of good clear might do the trick prior to placing it in the car. Just mask the faces of the flares.

StratfordShark

I put a little smear of copper anti-seize on the line behind the flare on the new hard line I installed, and on the original ones on the car where I had managed to free up the union nut so that it span freely (once the unions are spinning, you can push them up the line a little to get access to the section of line they will sit on). Sounds different from Dr Bob's silicone grease, so hope this was not huge mistake!

dr bob

Anything you use is fine. I like the silicone grease because a) I have it, b) it doesn't stain clothes and hands the way anti-seize does, and c) it doesn't trash hydraulic components the way oil-based products can. Still, I really like keeping the lubrication isolated from the hydraulic side and the sealing faces of the flare. It's intended to keep water and road crud out of the threads and the nut-to-tubing interface only.

StratfordShark

Thanks Dr Bob all makes great sense, especially messy nature of copper anti-seize!

I did put smear on threads of each union, but well away from flared end of line. Was determined that next time the flexible hoses had to be disconnected for any reason, it wouldnt be the same struggle as I had separating the original 25 year old parts and/or getting the unions to move freely.

kevinr

As of this writing, Roger can get new Porsche lines from Germany. I ordered used from Mark because I can get them before the weekend, it's not a high stress part and Mark warranties his parts.

I have a deadline to be ready for Sharktoberfest.

The price on new lines is very reasonable. About $150 for both rear lines and the distributor.

Good tip Dr Bob. I was wondering about thread lubrication as we've struggled with these at the front too.

kevinr

Replaced yesterday with a good used line from Mark. No issues. Was actually a pretty easy job.

Didn't even need to remove exhaust; just disconnected the two exhaust hangers near the rear wheels for access -- of course, we had access to a lift so maybe that was the difference for us.

Ony caveat is that we had to forgo reattaching to the clip behind the transaxle. No way I can see to get the line in that clip with trans in place.