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Porsche 1988 928 S4
I’m about to proceed with TT bearings replacement.
Stock bearings are *** 6006 C5 impossible to find
I was able to locate NTN TS3 6006.ZZ.C5 (C5 is that matter )
Have any used those bearings? Advice plz ?
I know about Constantine bearings but they are very expensive , comparing to
NTN 3 for $100 CDN
edit: Is your '88 an auto or 5-speed? my memory (possibly wrong - I've only had 5-speeds) says 88 was the year when Auto's changed to the thicker drive shaft, and thus use a different bearing?)
Hmm.. good question, I haven't looked for these bearings in a while.
Search turns up a Honda part 91062-HN8-013 for what appears (i.e. a guess on my part) to be a 6006 with C5 tolerance:
Anyone know if a clunking sound on initial acceleration in an auto could be a loose torque tube bearing sliding down the shaft and hitting the next bearing? Does it at about 1800 rpm on initial acceleration and then not again until I stop and take off again.
Anyone know if a clunking sound on initial acceleration in an auto could be a loose torque tube bearing sliding down the shaft and hitting the next bearing? Does it at about 1800 rpm on initial acceleration and then not again until I stop and take off again.
So I had my car on the lift and looked at the inspection hole at the back of the torque tube. In the window I could see what looked to be the "Rubber Spring" from the back of my torque tube damper. I used a long screw driver and pushed the rubber spring back up the tube an inch or so.... Now the clunk is gone. I find it weird that the damper is in that location. I thought it was further up the tube. Here are some pics.
The large weight is heavy and the rubber is shot, so it's moving back and forth and pushing the bearings out of place.
The TT needs to be serviced, period.
Nothing in there should be loosely moving about.
Go with the Super Bearings from Black Sea R & D and forgetaboutit
I'm thinking that I pull the Trans back and just pull the damper out. No noise coming from my bearings.
If its a manual you can drop the TT w/o too much trouble and service it.
If it's an Auto that's not going to be possible to move the trans back enough to get anything out of the inside of the TT, the TT can be removed by removing the upper bell housing and moving the trans back, about an inch is all you get w/o removing the rear suspension. (search for the write-up's).
With stock bearings (if they are still in the correct positions) w/o the balance weight you will have TT vibration, there is no "easy" fix here.
I've had a small Trans leak. I'm thinking some of the fluid got into the tube and caused the rubber spring to slide off. I'll take a look. I'm planning on a Trans removal anyway to replace the input seal and have the torque converter tested for leaks. I'll handle this then
Just to give you an idea of what your dealing with, here is a pic of whats in there (86.5 Auto).
Also show is the Super Bearings compared to the old original.
On both of my cars the rubber and the bearings were shot.
Remember the Drive Shaft spins at the same RPM as the engine, and on an Auto it is always spinning when the engine is running as it is connected to the Flywheel.
This job can be done on a Saturday on Jack stands by one person.
Good luck, let us know how it went or if you get stuck.
Not to be a cheap skate... But why could I not rebond the damper springs to the damper and bond the assembly back to the tube? Has anyone ever tried this?
12-30-2014, 06:37 PM
TT bearings
