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You need an alignment shop with drive on. They must be told that under no circumstances is the car to be lifted before the alignment is complete. You'll get grief about checking the loosens of components, my shop accepted that they could check the components after the alignment and I'd take the risk.
Make sure that the car is settled before you get to the shop, which means you're going to have to get it pretty close when you do the rack as it takes some distance. The rougher the roads the better.
Looking through the factory WSM yesterday, I noticed mention of what they considered a 'tool' to center the rack. To me, it looks like a basic bolt that screws into where you remove the plug to center up the rack.
What is so special about this 'bolt'? Can one be made to make my life easier for centering the rack?
I discovered transmission cooler line # 960 307 028 02 (#6 in the picture below) is leaking at the hose section prior to the screw on fitting to the radiator. This hose's crimp has been replaced with a worm gear clamp by someone who owned the car prior to me. I think this line is no longer available for replacement so I am left with minimal options here. How can I repair this without having to remove the whole line and send it out for a re-crimp?
You may want to start a new thread, many who have more knowledge may have moved on.
Best scenario is take the line off and take it to a custom shop and have them remake one just like it. This can be made less painful for time, but not money, if you purchase a used one as a guide.
Failing that it depends on the condition of the hose, there is likely some manner of ribbed fitting on the solid tube and on the fitting, the crimp tightens the hose to keep it tight on the solid tube. If the hose is OK a proper clamp, one designed for hydraulic pipe, should be able to stop the leak. This was attempted by the PO, but thwarted by his choice of clamp. If the hose has not been too deformed you may get away with just using a new better clamp. If the hose has been too deformed your next step will be to cut off the hose, get new hose and clamp each side. Hydraulic hose clamps are designed to apply the force equally around with no flat spots. Here is a picture of one type, springs are not necessary.
I will start a new one after I snap a pic of the failing hose tonight. Part of me wants to cut off the crimped end of the other side, yank the hose and replace it using EFI clamps to secure it.
I ended up dedicating the afternoon to cleaning under there as well as degreasing a very grimy sway bar and droplinks. I don't know how, but somewhere between doing my intake service and timing belt/water pump service triggered an obsessive compulsive disorder to see shiny bits regardless of the location on the car.
Nothing wrong with cutting the crimp off and replacing the line, if the end of the solid tubing is too flat or has a sharp edge you can always put a bubble flare on it.
There are several styles of EFI clamp, I'd go with the one that looks like the hydraulic clamp. They work better, and they look better.
Lance
These cars cause obsessive behavior, what is good, is really good, and you want it all to be like that. I've even taken up zinking my bolts. Crazy.
The clamp is too large, and the wrong type, damaging the hose was inevitable. It also looks like the ridge on the solid tubing is sharp, if it is a bubble flare would be in order.
It doesn't look like you have enough material but it might be close, remove the hose cut of a bit on the end, make sure the tube end is soft, reinstall with a good clamp.
Failing that you'll have to cut off the entire hose and replace it. If you can't use the fitting end take that to a custom shop, have them put a hose on the same end and install it on the tube.
The hose is worse than it looks actually. There is not enough length left to cut it and push the non-damaged end up the fitting. It will need to be replaced. Any recommendations for a proper replacement hose?
I didn't get much done at all last night other than upload those pictures. My daughter seems to be having nightmares lately.
Nightmares about transmission cooler lines? Hopefully she'll get over them soon.
Look for power steering hose for that AT line repair. Most POLAPS have that stuff in bulk/by the foot, and it's made for the fluid. If you want to get creative you can add a flare to the end of the metal line and a flare nut for a hard connection, or just the flare if you are concerned about the hose sliding off. Pressure in those lines is relatively low so the chance of it sliding off are slim.
God I hope this is the end of the ATF cooler line issue ince and for all. I had to replace both hard lines at the transmission a year afger we bought the car back in 2001. The garage floor had 2 gallons of ATF thanks to both lines failing.
Drbob do you know what the diameter is by chance? I will stop to pick some hose up today after work. I did not get the chance to measure the hose prior to leaving for work this morning.
I really hate the smell of ATF and it seems to take months to go away when you spill it. Probably goes back to my time as a kid. We had a non AC tractor used for field work the hydraulic system ran on ATF and was located below the seat, it would get nice and warm and the odor was something else. Now I'm going to be having night mares.
You're going to have to see what you have for a fitting and end anyway so cut off the hose, cut off a piece in the middle and have them duplicate it. Better a bit small than a bit big, it will stretch I've never found a way to shrink it.
I'd like to say this will be the end, but my experience has been that it never ends it just changes. But what would you do to fill your evenings
01-07-2016, 04:37 PM
